"Oh, hello there."
That next wave was beautiful - four feet, at least. Turning on the board, Rhoslyn started paddling, and as he got caught by the wave and popped up...
...well, I can't describe the feeling to you non-surfers. All thought and noise but the roar of the ocean fades to the peripherals as you carve down the front of the wave, broad and silly grin on your face as you commune with nature. Next to being in love, it was the best feeling in the world. Five timeless seconds of pure bliss later, and Rhoslyn's board slowed to a crawl as the back three fins dug into the sand as he jumped off, leash trailing in the water.
Picking up his board and unstrapping the leash from his ankle, he walked the board back to the racks, toweled off quickly, and returned to the bar, grinning like a Cheshire cat.
"Damon, dude... you look wickedly sunburned. A few hours in the sun kinda does that... ya need any help with that?"