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 Posted: Tue May 22, 2007 10:36 am
I figured we could share some information for the newer wiccans, and some of the ones who are just curious.
Please comment on The essential tools of a wiccan (or coven) and how to make them yourself, if need be. Please try to include instructions. For exampe, If you make your own runes, tell how to make them and get the symbols and thier meaning etc. This is a chance for us to be teachers of each other. ^.^
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Posted: Tue May 22, 2007 10:40 am
For example (not my own link) Making your own Runes The runes you make yourself are always going to be more powerful and more attuned to you than the runes that you buy at a store. Not that there's anything wrong with store-bought runes-my first set of runes is a rocking collection of stones, but that's mostly because I have used them and kept them with me for ten years. You can make your runes out of wood either by cutting 25 (or 24 if you're not using a Blank Rune) same-size squares from a board (remembering to sand the edges of each piece smooth) or getting a wooden dowel about 1 to 1½ inches in diameter, and cutting the dowel into 25 (or 24) disks about ½ to ¾ of an inch thick. If you don't want to deal with the hassle of saws and cutting and sanding (and who could blame you?), most arts and crafts stores, like A.C. Moore and Michael's, have precut wood in various sizes and shapes that are relatively inexpensive and perfectly cool to use. If you want to get more au naturel, go for a walk in the woods, find a tree with which you have a connection, and ask it for an appropriately sized branch that you can cut the runes from. Always ask permission, and always leave an offering behind as thanks. Wooden runes are cool, but so are stone ones (plus, you get that fun clicking sound!), and with stone, you can use your favorite gemstone. Or you can just go on another walk, down to a river or creek, and find your stones that way. As always, ask for permission and leave an offering. If you're using stones, try to get each one as close to the same size as possible, and make sure that at least one of the stone's sides is nice and flat (I find it difficult to draw or inscribe on a round, bumpy, hilly surface!). Once you have all your stones, or all your wooden pieces, it's time to inscribe them with the runes. If you are using wood, you can use a wood-burning tool to inscribe each one. Or you can use paint. I suggest using paint for your stones, although if you have stone that is soft enough, you may be able to use a dremel tool or something similar to inscribe the stones (this is not always possible, however-when I made my hematite runes, even the diamond-tip dremel couldn't cut those puppies). If you use paint on the stones, be sure to clear-coat each rune with some shellac to preserve the paint. What color paint you use is entirely up to you, although I find red to be an all-around good color for runes. Once the runes are dry, you are ready to cleanse and consecrate them. My ritual for this follows. It's a great ritual, if I do say so myself-very powerful. Saying each rune's name aloud during the ritual gives each rune its identity. Placing the runes in the cauldron is transforming them from mere stones/wooden disks to divinatory tools. Blowing on them further attunes them to your energies and use. Once you've completed the ritual, the runes are ready for you to use. Keep your runes with you; carry them in a pouch in your purse or briefcase, sleep with them at night, give them a designated spot on your altar during rituals. Meditate with them-hold Fehu and meditate on its meanings, and work through the set. You may discover different interpretations as you work with the runes. Practice working with them, and they will become a part of you. And they will never let you down. from http://www.bewitchingways.com/runes/making.htm
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Posted: Wed May 23, 2007 1:13 pm
tigerstriped_candy For example (not my own link) Making your own Runes The runes you make yourself are always going to be more powerful and more attuned to you than the runes that you buy at a store. Not that there's anything wrong with store-bought runes-my first set of runes is a rocking collection of stones, but that's mostly because I have used them and kept them with me for ten years. You can make your runes out of wood either by cutting 25 (or 24 if you're not using a Blank Rune) same-size squares from a board (remembering to sand the edges of each piece smooth) or getting a wooden dowel about 1 to 1½ inches in diameter, and cutting the dowel into 25 (or 24) disks about ½ to ¾ of an inch thick. If you don't want to deal with the hassle of saws and cutting and sanding (and who could blame you?), most arts and crafts stores, like A.C. Moore and Michael's, have precut wood in various sizes and shapes that are relatively inexpensive and perfectly cool to use. If you want to get more au naturel, go for a walk in the woods, find a tree with which you have a connection, and ask it for an appropriately sized branch that you can cut the runes from. Always ask permission, and always leave an offering behind as thanks. Wooden runes are cool, but so are stone ones (plus, you get that fun clicking sound!), and with stone, you can use your favorite gemstone. Or you can just go on another walk, down to a river or creek, and find your stones that way. As always, ask for permission and leave an offering. If you're using stones, try to get each one as close to the same size as possible, and make sure that at least one of the stone's sides is nice and flat (I find it difficult to draw or inscribe on a round, bumpy, hilly surface!). Once you have all your stones, or all your wooden pieces, it's time to inscribe them with the runes. If you are using wood, you can use a wood-burning tool to inscribe each one. Or you can use paint. I suggest using paint for your stones, although if you have stone that is soft enough, you may be able to use a dremel tool or something similar to inscribe the stones (this is not always possible, however-when I made my hematite runes, even the diamond-tip dremel couldn't cut those puppies). If you use paint on the stones, be sure to clear-coat each rune with some shellac to preserve the paint. What color paint you use is entirely up to you, although I find red to be an all-around good color for runes. Once the runes are dry, you are ready to cleanse and consecrate them. My ritual for this follows. It's a great ritual, if I do say so myself-very powerful. Saying each rune's name aloud during the ritual gives each rune its identity. Placing the runes in the cauldron is transforming them from mere stones/wooden disks to divinatory tools. Blowing on them further attunes them to your energies and use. Once you've completed the ritual, the runes are ready for you to use. Keep your runes with you; carry them in a pouch in your purse or briefcase, sleep with them at night, give them a designated spot on your altar during rituals. Meditate with them-hold Fehu and meditate on its meanings, and work through the set. You may discover different interpretations as you work with the runes. Practice working with them, and they will become a part of you. And they will never let you down. from http://www.bewitchingways.com/runes/making.htm Wow, that's a really good site.
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Posted: Wed May 23, 2007 6:40 pm
One book I suggest to help make unique and free tools you can use for your own accord is Ellen Dugan Natural Magick. There is one section dealing with Magickal tools made by natures gifts such a branches for wands etc, but over all it's a good resource. If you have some luck, you can get it at the local library like i did. rofl
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Posted: Thu May 24, 2007 12:19 pm
Haruhana tigerstriped_candy For example (not my own link) Making your own Runes The runes you make yourself are always going to be more powerful and more attuned to you than the runes that you buy at a store. Not that there's anything wrong with store-bought runes-my first set of runes is a rocking collection of stones, but that's mostly because I have used them and kept them with me for ten years. You can make your runes out of wood either by cutting 25 (or 24 if you're not using a Blank Rune) same-size squares from a board (remembering to sand the edges of each piece smooth) or getting a wooden dowel about 1 to 1½ inches in diameter, and cutting the dowel into 25 (or 24) disks about ½ to ¾ of an inch thick. If you don't want to deal with the hassle of saws and cutting and sanding (and who could blame you?), most arts and crafts stores, like A.C. Moore and Michael's, have precut wood in various sizes and shapes that are relatively inexpensive and perfectly cool to use. If you want to get more au naturel, go for a walk in the woods, find a tree with which you have a connection, and ask it for an appropriately sized branch that you can cut the runes from. Always ask permission, and always leave an offering behind as thanks. Wooden runes are cool, but so are stone ones (plus, you get that fun clicking sound!), and with stone, you can use your favorite gemstone. Or you can just go on another walk, down to a river or creek, and find your stones that way. As always, ask for permission and leave an offering. If you're using stones, try to get each one as close to the same size as possible, and make sure that at least one of the stone's sides is nice and flat (I find it difficult to draw or inscribe on a round, bumpy, hilly surface!). Once you have all your stones, or all your wooden pieces, it's time to inscribe them with the runes. If you are using wood, you can use a wood-burning tool to inscribe each one. Or you can use paint. I suggest using paint for your stones, although if you have stone that is soft enough, you may be able to use a dremel tool or something similar to inscribe the stones (this is not always possible, however-when I made my hematite runes, even the diamond-tip dremel couldn't cut those puppies). If you use paint on the stones, be sure to clear-coat each rune with some shellac to preserve the paint. What color paint you use is entirely up to you, although I find red to be an all-around good color for runes. Once the runes are dry, you are ready to cleanse and consecrate them. My ritual for this follows. It's a great ritual, if I do say so myself-very powerful. Saying each rune's name aloud during the ritual gives each rune its identity. Placing the runes in the cauldron is transforming them from mere stones/wooden disks to divinatory tools. Blowing on them further attunes them to your energies and use. Once you've completed the ritual, the runes are ready for you to use. Keep your runes with you; carry them in a pouch in your purse or briefcase, sleep with them at night, give them a designated spot on your altar during rituals. Meditate with them-hold Fehu and meditate on its meanings, and work through the set. You may discover different interpretations as you work with the runes. Practice working with them, and they will become a part of you. And they will never let you down. from http://www.bewitchingways.com/runes/making.htm Wow, that's a really good site. It's not mine, but I admit, it IS helpful
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Posted: Thu May 24, 2007 12:22 pm
lonewolfeyes One book I suggest to help make unique and free tools you can use for your own accord is Ellen Dugan Natural Magick. There is one section dealing with Magickal tools made by natures gifts such a branches for wands etc, but over all it's a good resource. If you have some luck, you can get it at the local library like i did. rofl Post a suggestion?
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Posted: Fri May 25, 2007 10:04 am
tigerstriped_candy lonewolfeyes One book I suggest to help make unique and free tools you can use for your own accord is Ellen Dugan Natural Magick. There is one section dealing with Magickal tools made by natures gifts such a branches for wands etc, but over all it's a good resource. If you have some luck, you can get it at the local library like i did. rofl Post a suggestion? yup yup, it's a great book dealing with the 4 elements too, so you get an overall view on the tools of each n how to make them I found it appropriate to post it here smile
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Posted: Fri May 25, 2007 11:46 am
lonewolfeyes tigerstriped_candy lonewolfeyes One book I suggest to help make unique and free tools you can use for your own accord is Ellen Dugan Natural Magick. There is one section dealing with Magickal tools made by natures gifts such a branches for wands etc, but over all it's a good resource. If you have some luck, you can get it at the local library like i did. rofl Post a suggestion? yup yup, it's a great book dealing with the 4 elements too, so you get an overall view on the tools of each n how to make them I found it appropriate to post it here smile maybe you could copy out a "recipe" of sorts? this is what I ment kinda here. to explain to us "poor" wiccans who have no money for books, how to make some of the tools we need. you know.... "how to make your own candles" etc.
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Posted: Tue May 29, 2007 10:11 am
*Making Your Own Candles* By: Solar 25 June 2003 Making your own candles at home can be both an inexpensive, enjoyable hobby and a basic survival skill. WHAT YOU'LL NEED: 1. Wax A good, general all-purpose wax is plain old Paraffin Wax, often found in the canning section of grocery, craft, and hardware. 2. Wick Very basic, all candles need wicks. You can purchase wicks from craft stores or make your own by dipping cords or heavy string into warm wax and allowing themto dry on a sheet of wax paper. 3. Mold This is what you will pour the hot wax into. No need to get fancy, recycle your cans, glasses, small cardboard boxes, and/or hard plastics. 4. Container for Melting Wax Once again, no need to get fancy, you can use a saucepan filled with water as an alternative, placing the actual wax into an old coffee tin and then into the water for heating. 5. Thermometer A candy thermometer will be fine. 6. Releaser A substance which allows you to remove the hard wax from the mold without damaging the candle - Cooking oil, silicone spray will work well - do not use anything with a petroleum base, as it may emit toxic fumes while the candle is buring.. 7. Pencils or dowels To be used as wick holders. 8. Wooden Spoon For stirring wax. 9. Wick Cutter Knife or scissors 10. Optionals Scent is optional ingredient , however, herbs (rosemary, basil, mint) and spices (vanilla) work very well - no need to buy expensive artificial scent. Remember, Citronella repels bugs!!! Color is optional - however, it might be fun to experiment with natural plant dyes, food coloring, ink, or crayons. Although not necessary, you can add things to your wax for decorative purposes, such as leaves, herbs, plastics and beads, broken pieces of tile, or dishes, seashells, small pretty stones, even jewelry to add a little something special to your creation. SOME BASIC SAFETY PERCAUTIONS - Never leave melting wax unattended. Never place wax directly into a saucepan or heating device on it's own. Never put water on a wax fire. Never overheat wax because fumes from overheated wax can cause severe illness. In addition, KNOW YOUR FLASH POINT. Use a thermometer when working with wax. Flashpoint is the temperature at which wax will combust. The Flashpoint is the absolute maximum that a given wax can be heated to. Typically, If you're using Paraffin or simple canning wax, the Flashpoint is 375-degrees. That means you should keep your temperature well below 375-degrees for safety reasons. Instructions 1. Making Wicks You can use common white string. Braid in two or more strands, soak in a solution of 2 Tablespoons salt, 8 ozs. water and 2 Tablespoons borax. Allow to dry completely. OR buy commercial candle wicks. A Word about Wicks - the size of your candle determines the thickness of your wick. If your wick is too small in diameter, it will fall over into the wax while burning. A little bit of trial and error is called for here if you are making your own wicks. Just start out making them at least three widths of string in diamter. Commercially purchased wicks are labeled as to the size of candle they are to be used with. 2. Heat Wax Heat the wax container slowly to the proper temperature, placing the unmelted wax into your carrier. Generally, a temperature of 140-degrees is sufficient for all forms of Paraffin. 3. Releaser As the wax is in the beginning stages of melting, spray or coat the inside of your molds with your releaser and set them aside in an area where it's safe to pour the wax. 4. Wooden Spoon Stir the melting wax gently with a wooden spoon. 5. Time for Your Optionals Once the wax is completely melted, this is the proper time to add scents (a little goes a long way! No more than one teaspoon of oil or herbs is usually necessary.) and coloring. Gently stir the wax for a few moments, allowing the color to blend and the scent to mix. 6. Pouring Wax in Mold Using a hotpad, lift container of melted wax out of the water and pour slowly into the molds. Remember, do not fill to the top. Leave at least a one-inch margin on the top of each mold. 7. Placing Wicks As the wax hardens, get the wicks, tying one end to the middle of a pencil. Slowly drop the free end of the wick into the wax, and rest the pencil on top of the mold. This will prevent the wick from falling into the wax as it's hardening. This is the time to add the other interesting nonflammable bits and pieces of interesting things, however, don’t forget not place these things around the perimeter of the candle, not near the wick!. Typically, It will take several hours for the wax to harden to the proper consistency. Many experts recommend allowing the wax to harden overnight before removing the candles from their molds. Once the wax has hardened, the candle should slide out freely from the mold when turned upside down. 8. More Optionals You can add decorations such as ribbons or flowers to the outside of the candle for gift giving, or place it in a decorative tray or box. from http://www.alpharubicon.com/warlord/primitive/makingcandlessolar.htm
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Posted: Tue May 29, 2007 10:13 am
how to make Dream Pillows Every ordinary person dreams when they sleep. Scientists have discovered that if we do not dream, because of the use of drugs or sleep-deprivation for example, we can become disoriented, distracted, and even nearly schizophrenic during our waking time. Dreaming appears to be essential to a healthy mind. Dreams are the subconscious mind's way of communicating with the conscious mind. As the subconscious mind uses svmbols instead of words to communicate, dreams are generally symbolic of something. The subconscious mind uses metaphors, sometimes in the wildest possible way, to get our attention. If the subconscious mind feels that we cannot emotionally endure being shown troubling parts of a problem, it will often symbolically present part of the action but delete the toughest parts. When we accept the first actions we are shown in dreams, then the dream will later expand to include the rest. Dreams can provide answers. By thinking about a certain thing you want solved just before you go to sleep, you program your subconscious mind to send up solutions. The images and actions in dreams are tailored to each individual by her/his own subconscious mind. That is why so few dream books are any help at all. By recording your dreams, you will begin to see a pattern in the symbolic images and form your own interpretations. However, there are a few symbols which appear to be universal in interpretation. For example, mud and manure represent money or prosperity. Making dream pillows for specific purposes is an excellent way to make your subconscious mind work with you on problem-solving, prophecy, etc. Dream pillows will also help when you are troubled by nightmares. Traditionally, certain herbs and oils are used for specific purposes. The following lists of herbs and oils will help you decide which you want in your personal dream pillow. Do NOT ingest herbs and oils! Oils Bergamot: (not the mint kind!) soothes the nerves, gives relaxing sleep. Hyacinth: stops nightmares. Jasmine: helps increase psychic dreams, lifts depression, quiets the nerves; is calming. Lavendar: relaxing deep sleep. Lilac: recalling past lives. Mimosa: prophetic dreams; getting to the truth; making decisions. Herbs Angelica : prophetic dreams and visions. Anise: use just a little to repel nightmares. Bay Laurel: inspiration; repels negativity. Cedar: helps to repel bad dreams. Cloves: use just a tiny amount because of the strong odor. Retrieving buried memories. Hops: restful sleep and healing. Marjoram: relieves depression. Mugwort: visions and prophetic dreams. Mullein: repels bad dreams. Rosemary: use just a little as it is very strongly scented. Avoid nightmares and headaches. St. Johns Wort: banishes spirits. Valerian: deep rest. Some cats love this herb as much as catnip so keep it out of their reach! The supplies you will need to create a dream pillow are: a piece of plain or muslin cloth; a piece of fancy cloth or of a material you can decorate; your choice of herbs and oils; an eye-dropper; wooden or glass bowl; wooden spoon. It is never good to mix herbs and oils with or in anything metal! Before beginning the dream pillow, decide what you will be using it for: to repel bad dreams, strengthen your prophetic abilities, rest and healing, etc. Choose your herbs and oils according to the pillow's use. To make a dream pillow, cut out two pieces of muslin or plain cloth to hold the herbs. These pieces of muslin should each be 12" by 8". With the wrong sides of the material (if there are any) together, stitch down the 8 inch side to the depth of 3/4"; stitch the same depth across one 12" end and across the other 8" side. Three sides of the fabric should be sew. Turn this little bag inside out so the seams are now on the inside. This is the "inner pillow" in which you will put your herbal mixture. Using fancier material, or a cloth you can paint or embroider, cut two more pieces of material 12 inches by 8 inches. Stitch them the same as the "inner pillow" except sew only to a depth of 3/8 inch. As with the inner pillow, turn it so the seams are on the inside. If you wish embroider it in any design or decorate it with fabric paints. If you plan to make this cover removable for washing, turn down a small hem on the open end and attach small Velcro disks or snaps to keep it closed. In a large wooden or glass bowl, mix together the herbs you have chosen with a wooden spoon. This is done gently, rather Iike tossing a salad. With the eye-dropper, add the chosen oils to the herbs. Use no more than a total of 5-6 drops at a time until you reach a strength to your taste. Remember, what smells nice standing over the bowl may well be too strong when you sleep on the pillow, so use restraint. Fill your "inner pillow" with the herbal mixture. Don't pack it full or it will be uncomfortable to sleep on. Leave it a little flat. Turn in a little of the open end so the raw edges are inside, then sew this end shut. Slide this inside your decorated cover, attach the fasteners, and you are ready for sweet dreams. from http://members.tripod.com/sephiroth_belial/id69.htm
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Posted: Tue May 29, 2007 10:15 am
Make Your Own Besom Materials: 1-four foot dowel or stick (1inch in diameter.) Ball of twine Scissors Straw, twigs, or herbs for bristles Take the straw, and allow it to soak overnight in warm, lightly salted water. (the water softens the straws making them pliable, and the salt soaks out the former energies.) When you are ready to make your besom, remove the straws from the water and allow them to dry a little bit, but not so much that they lose the suppleness you will need to turn them into your besom. Find a work area where you can lay out the length of your dowel, and begin lining the straws along side the dowel. Starting about three inches from the bottom, lay the straws, moving backward, along the length of the dowel. Begin binding these to the dowel with twine. You will need to tie them very securely. You can add as many layers as you wish, depending on how full you would like your besom to be. When the straw is secures, bend the top straws down over the twine ties. When they are gently pulled over, tie off the straws again a few inches below the original tie. Leave the besom overnight to allow the straw to dry. The dowel part of the besom can be stained, painted, or decorated with pagan symbols, or your craft name, or ant other embellishment you choose. Dedicate your finished besom in your circle as you would any other ritual tool. from http://members.tripod.com/sephiroth_belial/id75.htm
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Posted: Tue May 29, 2007 10:16 am
Soft Mead Recipe 1 quart water, preferably spring water 1 cup honey 1 sliced lemon 1/2 tsp. nutmeg Boil together all ingredients in a non-metallic pot. While boiling, scrape off the rising layer with a wooden spoon. When no more rises, add the following: 1 pinch of salt juice of 1/2 lemon Strain and cool. Drink in place of alcoholic mead or wine during feasts and rituals. From http://members.tripod.com/sephiroth_belial/id70.htm
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Posted: Tue May 29, 2007 10:18 am
Incence TOOLS NEEDED FOR INCENSE RECIPES First, you will want to have all your tools and ingredients together, before you start. You will need: • Your incense ingredients (Found in our Wholesale and Retail stores under "Oils & Herbs and Teas") • Mortar and pestle (a grinder) if your herbs/resins/flowers are not already in a finely powdered form. (Found in our Wholesale and Retail stores under "Herbs and Teas") • A measuring device-spoons, cup, or scale, depending on the quantity you are making. • A hammer and metal mortar-if you have to crush a stone ingredient. • Some small bowls, plates or containers for the powdered ingredients. • A large wooden or ceramic mixing bowl-to blend your ingredients. • A container for storing (airtight is preferred). How to make incense. GETTING YOUR HERBS ANDOR ROOTS PREPARED FOR MAKING INCENSE (if not using oils) No matter what recipes you are using, your incense ingredients will most likely need to be powdered, one by one. Grinding by hand is a wonderful way of adding your own being into your work. It is also somewhat relaxing and hypnotic. If your intention is a magical incense, set your goal in your mind, before you begin (prosperity, love, health, etc). It is especially helpful to visualize the intended outcome, as you grind. Even if you are not making a strictly "magical", you can still add your intention to your finished product in this way. Some ingredients will be easier to grind, than others. Some, will take a little practice to find just the right method. Experiment and find out what works best for you. Sometimes, you may even find that it is easier, if you don't fight so hard, when grinding. Be flexible. If you have to grind a stone, you might try smashing the stone with a hammer, first. Then, grind the smashed stone to a fine powder in a metal mortar. If hand grinding your ingredients is plainly distasteful, you have arthritis, or you just don't have time, you can always use an electric coffee grinder (do not use the grinder for stones). If you are creating your own recipes or blends, be sure to write down every ingredient, what quantity, and what you visualized, as you go along, so you can recreate this in the future. Incense has been smoldering somewhere in the world for thousands of years. It has been used for religious, and magical purposes, even as an air deodorizer, much as it is today. It is a wonderful way to change or set a particular mood. All organic matter has it's own inherent energy or vibration, as well as planetary and elemental correspondences. In making ones own magical incense, the magician chooses ingredients that will have the energies needed to manifest the goal. For a love incense recipe, you would choose ingredients that are known for promoting or attracting love. These energies may be used alone, or blended to add power to the magic work. A cleansing incense recipe might be used to clear a space of all negativity prior to the magical work, as well. In ritual, the energies are released through smoldering, and become accessible to the magician to use towards manifesting the desired magical goal. BLENDING YOUR INCENSE INGREDIENTS Now, that you have all your herbs, resins, crystals, barks, flowers, etc. finely powdered and filled with intent, you are ready to mix and blend them into a finished product. Take all your ingredients, one by one, and add them to the large bowl. As you add each ingredient, mix them together with your fingers, visualizing the intended outcome as you do. Add your own power of intention, coming off your hands and blending with the energies of the fragrance in the bowl. Know that your will is infusing the incense with the energy to help manifest the magical goal. Now you are ready to add any oils or liquids to your blend. You won't need very much, just a few drops is usually sufficient. If you are making a large amount of incense, and you are short a powdered ingredient, but have that oil on hand, it is usually fine to substitute a couple of drops of oil for the herb. Blend the oils and/or liquids into your incense, visualizing as you go. Some will call for a particular stone, as an ingredient. Usually, you only need a very small pinch, to give the effect. Add this in last, visualizing as you do. If you only want to boost your incense, you can normally add a pinch of amber, as it is an all around power booster. Dragon's Blood resin is also used in this way. NOW THAT YOU HAVE FINISHED CREATING YOUR INCENSE You now have a complete incense. You can choose to take it one step farther and do a full empowerment ritual now, another day, or not at all (if you are not making a magical fragrance). Place the finished product in an airtight container, and mark it plainly with name and date. Keep it in a cool dark place. When you are ready to use your incense, just light a charcoal tablet, fan for a minute, then add a teaspoon or so of incense to the top of the tablet. If your recipes are being used for a spell or ritual, a tablet will burn for at least 30 minutes so you can light it at any time, and add the incense later. Cautions and Disclaimers: Never leave burning product unattended. Charcoal tablets, used improperly can cause severe burns or house fires. If you have never used charcoal tablets, be sure to read about them first! If you have never used any kind of herbs before, please read about them first! We make no claims, where magical incense is concerned as to it's effectiveness or magical powers. This information is provided as a teaching guide, for how it is and has been used in the past, and you have to make your own decisions as to the suitability for any particular purpose. From http://www.jmw.net/how_to_make_incense.html
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Posted: Tue May 29, 2007 10:21 am
How To Make Your Own Magick Wand By Linda Seekins In making my wand, I cut it from a larger branch that was cut from a cedar tree that had to be trimmed back anyway, so it was not taken unnecessarily. I removed the attached twigs and debarked it and allowed it to dry for about a week. Then I sanded down the nubs left from the twigs until it was smooth. After this, I carved two curving bands about half an inch wide entertwining around the wand from top to bottom, one going clockwise and the other counterclockwise, similar to the serpents on the caduceus. These are carved in relief so as to look as though they were wrapped around the wand. Then I carved a socket about a quarter inch deep in the tip into which I set a perfectly clear, one-and-a-half-inch long, natural crystal, using a little glue to hold it in place. The entire length, including the crystal, is fifteen inches. I oiled the wand using simple mineral oil which isn't likely to go rancid and then using a soft cloth, rubbed it until it gleamed. Finally, I purified and conscrated the wand in the circle. I made a tube-shaped bag out of red velvet lined with red silk with a red satin drawstring to close it (red is the color of fire), into which I slide the wand to keep it safe and away from contamination. Throughout the entire process, from when I first cut the wand to the end of the process, I concentrated on it being a tool of power and of the fire element, made in honor of the Goddess and the God who are represented by the intertwining bands. Although this was a lot of work, I feel it was worth it, for it is a powerful tool. It has been my opinion that the more effort you put into making a tool, the more powerful it is, for the energy and concentration you expend goes into it. I also have a cedar staff that is the same height that I am, which came from the same cedar branch, but I haven't done anything more than sand it smooth and oil it as yet. I hope that this was helpful. Blessings, Linda Beginners Note: To get the most out of these magick wand instructions, pay attention to the feeling that Linda puts into her wand, as she crafts. Linda used cedar here. She has found that it is helpful to her, it is of the fire element, and she feels it is compatable for her use. Magick wands may be made from many diferent woods. These instructions can apply to a magick wand made from most any wood, and the decor you use, can be of your own design, something you feel comfortable with. Draw upon your inner resources and creativity to create a work that truly represents "you"and your tool's purpose. from http://paganwiccan.about.com/gi/dynamic/offsite.htm?zi=1/XJ/Ya&sdn=paganwiccan&cdn=religion&tm=37&f=10&tt=14&bt=0&bts=0&zu=http://grandpasgeneral.com/lwand.html
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Posted: Tue May 29, 2007 10:23 am
PENDULUM
Materials:
12"-18" of string ot cord
pointed stone or a sphere (stone, glass, metal, etc. as long as it's heavy enough to weigh down the string.)
Large bead or stick (to use as a handle.)
Decorations such as beads or trinkets (this is optional. Just don't use anything that is magnetic or will get in the way.) Superglue
Scissors
Tie the string to the center of your handle or large bead.
At this time if you would like to decorate your string with beads etc., slide them onto the string now.
Then tie the pendulum point to the opposite of the string.
You can use superglue to seal the knots. (PLEASE BE CAREFUL, SUPERGLUE CAN BOND TO AND BURN YOUR SKIN.)
Cut off any loose strings with scissors, and you are done.
*There are many different items you can use for a pendulum. You can be as simple as using a faucet washer to using a crystal. It's really up to how much money you wish to spend.
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