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Posted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 6:22 pm
THE M1 GARAND (M1 SPRINGFIELD RIFLE)  BACKGROUND RELATED RIFLES NOMENCLATURE FIELD STRIPPING DETAIL STRIPPING OPERATION TROUBLESHOOTING MAINTENANCE ACCESSORIES HISTORICAL USE APPENDIX SOURCES COMMENTS
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Posted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 6:41 pm
BACKGROUND In 1937, a Canadian gunsmith named John C. Garand, while working at the Springfield Armory, designed and built what was to become "the greatest battle implement ever devised" in the words of General George S. Patton. This M1 Garand was to be the first semi-automatic, auto-loading rifle in the U.S. Army's history. Semi-automatic means that only one bullet is fired ever pull of the trigger. The weapon will not fire again until the trigger is released and allowed to reset. Consequently, the M1 Garand will become the last rifle a civilian could normally own in the same configuration in which it was issued to a soldier. The M1 Garand possessed the stopping power of the M-1903 and the rapid-fire characteristics of a gas operated, semi-automatic rifle. Instead of rate of fire being limited to how fast a soldier can operate a rifle's bolt action, it was now determined by how fast he could squeeze the trigger. The semi-automatic function was accomplished by siphoning off some of the gas pressure created by the burning powder that would normally be used to propel the bullet, and use it to cycle the rifle's bolt. This, in turn, also softened the recoil, as compared to the M1903, making it more comfortable to shoot. The Garand utilized a staggered, eight round clip. The clip was inserted from the top of the rifle and spring-loaded. After the last round is fired, the clip automatically ejects with the characteristic sound. The greatest attribute to this design was not the fact that you can fire off eight rounds in less than five seconds, but that you didn't have to pick up your head every shot, taking your eyes off the target to cycle the bolt. The Garand proved to be super-rugged and very reliable. SpecificationsUS Army Name: United States Rifle, Caliber .30 M1. Caliber: M19102 .308, M19106 .30-06 Barrel: 24", 1 Turn In 10 inches, Right Hand, 6 Groove Weight: 9.5 lbs. Length: 43.6" Muzzle Velocity: 2,750 feet per second Maximum Range: 3,450 yards Maximum Effective Range: 800-1,000 yards Mechanism: Gas Operated, Semi-Automatic Sights Front: Military Square Post Rear: Military Aperture With MOA Adjustments For Both Windage And Elevation. 27.9 Radius Magazine: 8 Round Clip, En Bloc Trigger Pull: 5.5 to 7.5 lbs. 2 Stage Military Trigger
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Posted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 6:45 pm
RELATED RIFLES VariantsM1E1- modified cam angle in op-rod M1E2- prismatic scope and mount M1E3- roller added to bolt’s cam lug (later adapted for use in the M14) M1E4- gas cut-off and expansion system with piston integral to op-rod M1E5- 18-inch barrel and folding stock M1E6- sniper variant M1E7/M1C- M1E6 Garand variant; sniper variant with M81 scope (though the M82 or M84 scope could be used) on a Griffin and Howe mount M1E8/M1D- M1E7 Garand variant; sniper variant with M82 scope (though the M84 scope could be used) on a Springfield Armory mount M1E9- similar to M1E4, with piston separate from op-rod M1E10- variant with the "Ljungman" direct gas system M1E11- short-stroke Tappet gas system M1E12- gas impingement system M1E13- "White" gas cut-off and expansion system M1E14- rechambered in .30 T65/7.62 × 51 mm NATO with press-in chamber insert T20- select-fire conversion by John Garand, capable of using BAR magazines T20E1- T20 variant; uses its own type of magazines T20E2- T20 variant; E2 magazines will work in BAR, but not the reverse T20E2HB- T20E2 variant; HBAR variant T22- select-fire conversion by Remington, magazine-fed T22E1- T22 variant; unknown differences T22E2- T22 variant; unknown differences T22E3- T22 variant; unknown differences; uses T27 fire control T26- 18-inch barrel and standard stock T27- Remington select-fire field conversion for M1 Garand; ability to convert issue M1 Garands to select-fire rifles; fire control setup used in T22E3 T35- rechambered for .30 T65/7.62 × 51 mm NATO T36- T20E2 variant; T20E2 rechambered for .30 T65/7.62 × 51 mm NATO using T35 barrel and T25 magazine T37- T36 variant; same as T36, except in gas port location
Descendants As stated earlier, the M1 Garand was the direct predecessor of the M14 rifle that replaced it. During the 1950s, Beretta developed the BM-59 series of rifles, which would also be produced, under license, in Indonesia as the "SP" series. Ruger produced the Mini-14 rifle, which utilizes a reduced-size operating system and a different gas system. The AK-47 was developed from an earlier Kalashnikov carbine which heavily drew from the Garand design; particularly, the locking system with its rotating bolt is based on Garand's design. The AK-47 also uses a highly simplified form of the Garand trigger group. Despite similarities in naming, there is no relationship between the M1 Garand and the M1 Carbine, other than a similar rotating bolt design. Additional confusion may come from the adoption of several other "M1" weapons ("M" being an abbreviation for Model), such as the M1 Thompson submachine gun and M1 Abrams tank.
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Posted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 8:52 pm
NOMENCLATURE Feeding & Operation Assembly (Barrel and Receiver Group) 1 Barrel 2 Bolt 3 Bullet Guide 4 Follower Arm 5 Follower Arm Pin 6 Follower & Follower Slide Assembly 7 Follower Rod 8 Operating Rod 9 Operating Rod Catch & Accelerator 10 Operating Spring 11 ReceiverClip Latch Assembly 12 Clip Latch 13 Clip Latch Pin 14 Clip Latch Spring Gas Cylinder Assembly 15 Gas Cylinder 16 Gas Cylinder Lock 17 Gas Cylinder Lock Screw Valve Stock Assembly 18 Front Handguard 19 Front Handguard Spacer (liner) 20 Stacking Swivel 21 Stacking Swivel Screw 22 Rear Handguard 23 Rear Handguard Band/Clip 24 Lower Band 25 Buttplate 26 Buttplate Bolt 27 Buttplate Screw 28 Buttstock 29 Front Swivel (Stock Ferrule Swivel) 30 Stock Ferrule 31 Rear Swivel/Butt Swivel Sight Assemblies 32 Aperture 33 Cover 34 Rear Sight Base 35 Elevation Knob 36 Windage Knob 37 Front Sight 38 Front Sight Screw Trigger Assembly 39 Clip Ejector Spring 40 Hammer 41 Hammer Pin 42 Hammer Plunger 43 Hammer Spring 44 Hammer Spring Housing 45 Safety 46 Sear 47 Trigger 48 Trigger Guard 49 Trigger Housing 50 Trigger Pin Bolt Assembly 2 Bolt 52 Ejector 53 Ejector Spring 54 Extractor 55 Extractor Spring 56 Extractor Plunger 57 Firing Pin
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Posted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 9:42 pm
FIELD STRIPPING Disassembling the Three Main GroupsTo disassemble the rifle into three main groups, first ensure that the weapon is clear and then allow the bolt to go forward by depressing the follower with the right thumb and allowing the bolt to ride forward over the follower assembly. Place the rifle butt against the left tigh, sights to the left. With the thumb and forefinger of the right hand, pull downward and outward on the rear of the trigger guard. Swing the trigger guard out as far as it will go and lift out the trigger housing goup. To separate the barrel and receiver group from the stock, lay the weapon on a flat surface with the sights up, muzzle to the left. With the left hand, grasp the rear of the receiver and raise the rifle. With the right hand, give a downward blow, grasping th small of the stock. This will separate the stock group from the barrel and receiver group. Disassembling the Barrel and Receiver GroupPlace the barrel and receiver group, with the bolt closed, on a flat surface with the sights down (ensuring that the aperture is at its lowest postition), muzzle pointing to the left. Holding the rear of the receiver with the right hand, grasp the follower rod with the thumb and forefinger of the left hand and disengage it from the follower arm by moving it toward the muzzle. Remove the folloer rod and operating rod spring by withdrawing them to the right. Do not separate these parts. (Caution: Be sure to keep the area clear when removing the operating rod spring, mishandling the removal can cause injuries or death.) Using the tip of a pointed object, preferably a ballpen, remove the follower arn pin by pushing it from the far side of the receiver toward the body, rod to the rear until the rear of the handle is directly under the forward edge of the dismount notch of the receiver. Remove the operating rod. With the left hand, grasp the bullet guide, follower arm and operating rod catch assembly, and lift them out of the receiver together. Separate and arrange these parts from the left to right in the following order: follower arm, operating rod catch assemble and bullet guide. Reach down the receiver and lift out the follower assmble. Turn the barrel and receiver group over so that the sights are up, muzzle pointing away from you. With the left hand, raise the rear of the receiver. With the right hand, pull the operating rod to the rear until the rear of the handle is directly under the forward edge of the windage knob. With an upward and outward movement, disengage the guide lug of the operating rod through its dismount notch on the receiver. Remove the oprating rod. (Caution: The operating rod is bent intentionally so that it will not bind against the enlarged position of the barrel. Do not attempt to straighten it.) With the right hand, grasp the bolt by the operating lug and slide it fully to the rear then slide it forward, lifting upward and outward to the right front with a slight rotating motion to remove it. Reassemling the Barrel and Receiver GroupTo replace the bolt, hold it by the operating lug and place the rear end of the bolt onto the bridge of the receiver. Rotate the bolt counterclockwise as far as necessary to permit the tang of the firing pin to clear the top of the bridge of the receiver. Guide the left locking lug of the bolt into its groove on the left side of the receiver. Lower the right locking lug on its bearing surface and slide the bolt halfway to the rear. To replace the operating rod, hold handle with the right hand and place the piston end into the gas cylinder. Aline the operating rod so that the recess in the hump fits over the operating lug of the bolt. While applying pressure downward and inward on the handle, pull the operating rod to the rear until the guide lug is engaged in its groove. Move the operating rod forward until the bolt is closed. Turn the barrel and receiver group over so that the sights are down and the muzzle is to the left. Replace the follower assembly so that its guide ribs fit into their grooves in the receiver. Make sure that the slide of the receiver is down and that the square hole is to the rear. The slide will rest against the bolt. Replace the bullet bide so that its shoulders fit into their slots in the receiver and the hole in the toe of the bullet guide is alined with the holes in the receiver. With the right hand, lift up the lower part of the bullet guide slightly. With the left hand, insert the rear arm of the operating rod catch assembly through the clearance cut in the side of the bullet guide. Make sure that the rear arm is underneath the front stud of the clip latch which projects into the receiver. Lower the bullet guide into place. Test for correct assembly by pressing down on the front arms of the operating rod catch assembly. It should move and you should be able to feel the tension of the clip latch spring. Replace the follower arm by passing its rear studs through the bullet guide and inserting them into the guide grooves on the follower. Allow the wings of the follower to rest astride the toe of the bullet guide. Aline the holes in the operating rod catch assembly, follower arm and bullet guide with those in the receiver and replace the followerarm pin from the rear side. Insert the loose end of the operating rod spring into the operating rod. Grasp the follower rod with the left and making sure that its hump is toward the barrel. Pull toward the muzzle, compressing the operating rod spring, and engage the claws of the follower rod with the front studs of the follower arm. You may ahve to raise the follower arm assemly to do this. Reassembling the Three Main GroupsPlace the barrel and receiver group on a flat surface, sights down. Pick up the stock group and engage the U-shaped flange of the stock ferrule in the lower band, then lower the stock group onto the barrel and receiver group. Unlatch and open the trigger guard. Keeping the base of the trigger housing group level, place it straight down into the receiver, making sure that the locking lugs on the trigger guard enter their recesses in the receiver. Place the butt of the rifle on the left tight with sights to the left. Close the trigger guard and latch it by striking it with the heel of the right hand. The trigger guard is latched while the rifle is in this position so that the rear sight will not be damaged. PictureDisassembling the Three Main Groups
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Posted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 9:54 pm
DETAIL STRIPPING RifleDisassmbly With the rifle pointed in a safe direction pull back the operating rod handle and ensure the rifle is unloaded. Depress the magazine follower. Close the bolt by pushing the operating rod handle forward. Set the safety. Pull the trigger guard to the rear. Pivot the trigger guard forward. Pull the trigger assembly straight up and out of the rifle. Pivot the receiver forward. Separate the barrel/receiver assembly from the stock. Loosen the ferrule swivel screw. Remove the ferrule assembly. Unscrew the lower butt plate screw. Remove the lower butt plate screw. Remove the rear swivel. Unscrew the upper butt plate screw. Remove the upper butt plate screw. Remove butt plate assembly. Using the combination tool's screw driver, turn the gas cylinder lock screw counter clockwise. Note that you should not hold onto the forward handguard for leverage as you can damage it. Hold onto the barrel and gas assembly. Remove the gas cylinder lock screw. Rotate the gas cylinder lock counter clockwise. Remove the gas cylinder lock. Slide the gas cylinder forward and off. Slide the upper hand guard forward. Remove the upper hand guard. Grasp the follower rod. Pull the follower rod to the rear, compressing the operating rod spring. Remove the follower rod and operating rod spring. Separate the follower rod and the operating rod spring. Pull the operating rod to the position. The operating rod lug rides in a channel or guide on the right hand side of the receiver. Where the handle is positioned, there is an enlarged section that allows the operating rod lug to be removed from the channel. Rotate the operating rod slightly toward the top of the receiver while lifting at the handle end. Remove the operating rod. Note that the operating rod is slightly bent. Do not fret as this is supposed to be this way. Be careful with the operating rod so as not to bend or damage it while it is disassembled from the rifle. Push the bolt to the rear of the receiver and then hold the bolt at the angle. Pull the bolt out. There are many different ways to remove the lower band pin from the lower band. Use a very narrow tipped punch and lightly tap out the pin. Slide the lower band forward. Slide the lower hand guard forward. Once the rear hand guard band clip clears the grooves in the side of the barrel lift the lower hand guard off. On the left hand side of the receiver lightly push out the follower arm pin. Pull the follower arm pin out the rest of the distance on the right side of the receiver. Lift out the follower arm and bullet guide. Note the follower and slide assembly slid out of the receiver. Remove the operating rod catch. Reassembly Instructions Install the bullet guide. Replace the operating rod catch. Note that the operating rod catch is hooked above the magazine catch latch. Slide follower and slide assembly back into the receiver. Make sure the follower side is facing towards the top of the receiver. Pivot the follower arm sideways through the center of the bullet guide's rails. The small trunnions of the follower arm should slide into the follower and slide assembly. Make sure the holes in the follower arm, operating rod catch, and the bullet guide all are lined up. Insert the follower arm pin into the right side of the receiver. Snap the rear hand guard band clip into the grooves in the side of the barrel. Slide the lower band till it mates with the lower hand guard. Insert the lower band pin. Pivot the bolt into the receiver. Complete bolt installation. Note the L-shaped channel the bolt lug fits into. Also note the lug on the operating rod that is inserted into the channel on the right side of the receiver. Directly across from the operating rod lug there is an enlarged entry place in the receiver's channel. Insert the piston end of the operating rod below the lower band. Insert the operating rod and line up the L-Shaped channel over the bolts' lug while also inserting the lug at the rear of the operating rod into the channel on the right hand side of the receiver. Move the bolt and operating rod forward. Note the tapered end of the operating rod spring. Insert the follower rod into the tapered end of the operating rod spring. Insert the non tapered end of the operating rod spring into the operating rod. Pull the follower rod to the rear, compressing the operating rod spring. Attach the front of the follower rod to the follower arm. Slide the upper hand guard over the barrel and operating rod. Slide the upper hand guard to the rear until it fits up against the lower band. Slide the gas cylinder over the barrel and operating rod. Slide the gas cylinder up against the hang guard ferrule at the front of the upper hand guard. Slide the gas cylinder lock onto the barrel. Thread the gas cylinder lock clockwise until it rest against the gas cylinder and allows the gas cylinder plug to be inserted. Insert the gas cylinder plug into the gas cylinder lock. Hand tighten the the gas cylinder lock screw by turning it clockwise. Using the combination tool's screw driver, turn the gas cylinder lock screw clockwise. Note that you should not hold onto the forward handguard for leverage as you can damage it. Hold onto the barrel and gas assembly. Install the butt plate assembly. Insert the upper butt plate screw. Tighten the upper butt plate screw. Insert the rear swivel. Insert the lower butt plate screw. Making certain the lower butt plate screw threads into the rear swivel, tighten the lower butt plate screw. Insert the ferrule swivel assembly. Push the ferrule swivel assembly up against the front of the stock. Tighten the ferrule swivel screw. Pivot the assembled rifle upper into the assembled rifle stock. Insert the receiver into the stock. Insert the trigger assembly into the rifle. Rotate the trigger guard to the rear. Lock the trigger guard in place.
Bolt Disassmbly Place your finger over the bolt face. While applying quite a bit of downward pressure on the bolt face, take the punch and push out the extractor. Make sure the ejector does not spring (fly) out of the bolt. Remove the extractor while allowing the ejector spring and ejector to decompress against your finger. You can also use the Garand Combo tool to remove the extractor. Place the tool, with notch, against the bolt face. Make sure to place notch of tool between extractor and bolt. Rotate tool, while applying quite a bit of downward pressure, clockwise. You have to hold onto the wire brush on the tool. The tool forces the extractor to disconnect and allows the ejector spring and ejector to decompress, without flying out. After using either the punch or Garand Combo Tool, you can remove the ejector and ejector spring. Remove extractor spring and extractor spring plunger. Grasp firing pin. Remove the firing pin and set it aside. Reassembly Instructions Return the firing pin to the bolt. Make sure the firing pin rest in the firing pin slot on the rear of the bolt. Return the extractor spring and extractor spring plunger. Return the extractor to the bolt. Do not push in the extractor all the way. Note the extractor plunger pressing against the extractor. When the extractor is fully inserted the extractor plunger applies pressure against the extractor. Return the ejector and ejector spring. Note the arrow pointing to the groove on the ejector. The groove must be positioned so as when the extractor is fully inserted that it can pass over the groove and lock both parts in place. You can use the punch to push down on the ejector while pushing the extractor fully locked into place. You can use the Garand Combo Tool to push the ejector down while pushing the extractor fully locked into place.
Front Sight Disassembly Unscrew the front sight screw. Slide the front sight to either the left or right off of the dovetail. Unscrew the front swivel screw. Remove the front swivel screw. Remove the front swivel. Reassembly Instructions Install the front swivel. Install the front swivel screw. Tighten the front swivel screw. Slide the front sight over the dovetail and center it. Tighten the front sight screw. Rear Sight Disassmbly With your hand hold the elevation screw in place. Using either a flat blade screw driver or the Garand multi-function tool loosen the nut on the windage knob. Unscrew the windage knob. Remove the windage knob. Remove the elevation knob. Remove the aperture. Lift up on the sight base and depress the cover spring inward so it can be lifted out. Remove and separate the base and cover spring. Reassembly Combine the base and cover spring. Insert the base and cover spring into the reciever. Depress the cover inward so it can be snapped into place. Insert the aperture. Make the aperture is seated all of the way down. Insert the elevation knob assembly so the 200 yard graduation is lined up with the elevation index line on the sight base. Insert the windage knob. Tighten the windage knob. Tighten the windage knob nut. Operate the elevation knob to make sure it functions without binding. Operate the windage knob to make sure it functions without binding.
Trigger Disassmbly Make sure the safety is off. While holding the hammer down, pull the trigger. Slowly allow the hammer to swing up and forward. Drift out the trigger pin. While holding the trigger and sear in place with the palm of your hand remove the trigger pin. Allow the hammer spring to expand fully. Remove the trigger, sear, spring, hammer spring housing, and plunger. Separate the trigger, sear from the spring, hammer spring housing, and plunger. Separate the spring and plunger from the hammer spring housing. Separate the spring and plunger. Drift out the hammer pin. Remove the hammer pin. Pull the trigger guard forward. Rotate the trigger guard to the right so it can be removed. Remove the trigger guard. Remove the hammer. Pull the safety away from the trigger housing. Remove the safety. Note how the clip ejector is installed. Place a small screw driver between the clip ejector and the trigger housing and pop it off the trigger housing. Remove the clip ejector. Reassembly Instructions Replace the clip ejector. Hold the front the clip ejector in place with your hand. Push up on the clip ejector and snap it into place on the trigger housing. Insert the safety. Snap the safety into place so the lug fits into the hole in the wall of the trigger housing. Move the safety back and forth. Insert the hammer. Cant the trigger guard to the right to install it. Rotate the trigger guard into place. Align the holes of the trigger guard and the hammer. Insert the hammer pin. Combine the spring and plunger. Insert the spring and plunger into the hammer spring housing. Insert the end of the plunger against the notch in the back of the hammer. Insert the trigger and sear in the trigger housing and combine with rear of hammer spring housing. Push down with the palm of your hand against the trigger and sear so it compresses the spring. Align the holes of the hammer spring housing and the trigger. Insert the trigger pin. You may have to play around with the pin to get it in all of the way. Pull the trigger guard all of the way forward and c**k the hammer. Close and lock the trigger guard into place. Flip the safety on. Pull trigger to make certain safety is functional. The hammer should not release. Press the safety off. While holding down on the hammer pull the trigger. The hammer should release and slowly allow it to swing up. c**k the hammer again and turn on the safety. Unlock and open the trigger guard. The trigger assembly is now ready to be installed in the M1 Garand. PicturesRemoval of Clip Latch ans SightRemoval of gas cylinder group and front hand guard; removal of the operating rod spring and follower rodRemoval of the operating rod handle from receiver group; removal of the rear hand guard Dismantling of the receiverDismantling Barrel from ReceiverDismantling the Trigger HousingDismantling of trigger housing (continued) Dismantling the stock
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Posted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 10:01 pm
OPERATION Loading the Rifle a. Single round. To load a single round, pull the operating rod all the way to the rear. While holding the muzzle below the horizontal, place a round in the chamber an seat it with the thumb. With a knife edge of the right hand against the operating rod handle, force the operating rod slightly to the rear. Push down on the follower assembly with the right thumb and allow the bolt to ride forward. Remove the thumb from the follower assembly and release the operating rod handle, allowing the operating rod to go all the way forward. b. Full clip. To load a full clip, hold the rifle at the balance with the left hand and pull the operating rod handle all the way to the rear. Place the butt of the rifle against the thigh or on the ground. With the right hand, place a full clip on top of the follower assembly. Place the thumb on the center of the top round in the clip and press the clip straight down into the receiver until it catches. Swing the right hand up and to the right to clear the bolt in its forward movement. Note that the operating rod is not held to the rear during loading since there is no danger of it going forward as long as pressure is maintained on the top round in the clip. It may be necessary to strike forward on the operating rod handle with the heel of the right hand to fully close and lock the bolt. c. Partially filled clip. To load a partially filled clip, hold the rifle in the same manner prescribed for a full clip. With the operating rod all the way to the rear, place an empty clip into the receiver. Place the first round into the clip and on the follower, to the left of the follower slide. Press the second round into the clip, exerting a downward, turning motion until the round snaps into place. Load the remaining rounds in the same manner. With the knife edge of the the right hand against the operating rod handle force the operating rod slightly to the rear. Push down on the top round with the right thumb, allowing the bolt to start the top round forward. Remove the right hand and allow the operating rod to go forward.
Unloading the Rifle a. To unload a round from the chamber, support the rifle butt on the thigh or on the ground; with the right hand grasp the operating rod handle and pull the operating rod slowly to the rear. At the same time, place the left hand, palm down, over the receiver to catch the round as it is ejected. This keeps the round from falling into the dirt or away from your position. b. To unload a filled or partially filled clip, unload the round that is in the chamber as described in (a.) above. When the operating rod reaches its rearmost position, hold it there. Place the palm of the left hand over the receiver and depress the clip latch with the left thumb, allowing the clip to be ejected up into the hand, Do not relax the rearward pressure on the operating rod handle until after the clip has been removed.
Loading Rounds into a Clip a. Insert eight rounds into the clip, holding the clip, open end upward, and the rounds in palm of your left hand. Start placing the rounds in from the lower left of the clip and make sure that each round is against the rear wall so that the inner rib of the clip engages the extracting groove of each round. The top round will then be on the right, making the clip easier for a right handed firer to load in the rifle. For the same reason, clips are loaded this way at arsenals. b. Each time rounds are loaded into a clip, the clip should be checked for long rounds. If one rounds extends beyond the others, it will be hard to load the clip into the rifle. The long round should be seated by removing the top round, pushing the long round into place and then replacing the top round. Tapping the bullet against a solid surface to seat the long round may result in the bullet being pushed back into its cartridge case. This may damage the bullet or break the bullet seal which could result in changes in the ballistic performance of the round.
Functioning of the Rifle a. The trigger must be pulled to fire each round. When the last round is fired, the empty clip is automatically ejected and the bolt remains to the rear. b. Each time a round is loaded and fired, many parts inside the rifle work in a given order. This is known as the cycle of operation. This cycle is similar in all small arms. A knowledge of what happens inside the rifle during this cycle of operation will help the soldier understand the cause of and remedy for various stoppages. c. The cycle of operations is broken down into eight steps. These steps are listed below, together with a brief description of what actually occurs inside the rifle during each step. Assume that a full or partially filled clip has been loaded into the rifle and that the first round has been fired and the bolt is in its rearmost position.
Cycle of Operation 1. Feeding. Feeding takes place when a round is moved into the path of the bolt. This is done by the follower assembly exerting an upward pressure on the bottom round in the clip. The follower assembly is continuously forced up by the pressure of the operating rod spring through the follower rod and the follower arm. 2. Chambering. Chambering occurs when a round is moved into the chamber. This takes place as the bolt goes forward under pressure of the expanding operating rod spring, picking up the top round in the clip and driving it forward into the chamber. Chambering is complete when the extractor snaps into the extracting groove on the cartridge case and the ejector is forced into the face of the bolt. 3. Locking. Locking is complete when the bolt is fully closed. This prevents the loss of gas pressure until the bullet has left the muzzle. The bolt is locked by the rear camming surface in the recess in the hump of the operating rod, forcing the operating lug of the bolt down. This engages the locking lugs on the bolt with their recesses in the receiver. 4. Firing. Firing occurs when the firing pin strikes the primer. As the trigger is pulled the trigger lugs are disengaged from the hammer hooks and the hammer is released. The hammer moves forward under the pressure of the hammer spring and strikes the tang of the firing pin, driving the firing pin against the primer and firing the round. 5. Unlocking. Unlocking occurs after the firing of the round. As the bullet is forced through the barrel by the expanding gas, a small portion of the gas escapes through the gas port into the gas cylinder, forcing the operating rod to the rear. The camming surface inside the recess in the hump of the operating rod forces the operating lug of the bolt upward, disengaging the locking lugs from their recesses in the receiver. The bolt is thus unlocked and ready to be moved to the rear. 6. Extracting. Extracting is pulling the empty cartridge case from the chamber. The extractor, which is engaged with the extracting groove on the cartridge case, withdraws the empty case as the bolt moves to the rear. 7. Ejecting. Ejecting is throwing the empty case from the rifle. As the bolt moves to the rear, withdrawing the case from the chamber, the round is held in place by the chamber walls. When the mouth of the empty case clears the chamber, it is ejected up and to the right by the expanding ejector spring and ejector. 8. Cocking. Cocking occurs when the hammer is forced into the proper position for firing the next round. This happens as the bolt continues to the rear. The rear end of the bolt forces the hammer back and rides over it. The hammer is caught by the sear if the trigger is still held to the rear, but it is caught by the trigger lugs if trigger pressure has been released.
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Posted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 10:25 pm
TROUBLESHOOTING Stoppagesa. A stoppage is any unintentional interruption in the cycle of operation. b. Most stoppages occur because of dirty, worn, or broken parts, and lack of lubrication. The rifleman must be taught to watch for these defects and take corrective action to eliminate them before they cause a stoppage. Some of the more common stoppages, with their usual causes and remedies are shown in table above. Note that the stoppages are classified according to the steps of the cycle of operation.
Immediate Action a. Immediate action is the prompt action taken by the firer to reduce a stoppage. To apply immediate action, pull the operating rod handle all the way to the rear with the right hand, palm up, then release it. The right hand should be held in this manner so it will not be injured in the event of a hangfire. Next, aim the rifle and try to fire it. b. If a rifleman is taught to apply immediate action quickly and properly when his rifle fails to fire, he will be able to reduce most stoppages.
Misfire, Hangfire, and Cookoff a. Hangfires and misfires rarely occur. Normally, the firer will instinctively apply immediate action which in most instances reduces the stoppage even when caused by a hangfire or misfire. b. Misfires are caused by one of three factors - the firer, the weapon malfunctioning (due to excessive dirt, etc.), or faulty ammunition. When there has been an excessive number of misfires caused by faulty ammunition, the lot number should be reported to ammunition supply personnel for inspection and determination of disposition.
Malfunction A malfunction is a failure of the weapon to operate satisfactorily. Some of the common malfunctions are discussed below. a. The clip may jump out on the seventh round. This is usually caused by a bent follower arm or bullet guide and can be corrected by replacing them. b. The rifle may fire in bursts of two or three rounds. This is due to the sear being broken, worn, or remaining in an open position. It can be corrected by replacing the trigger assembly. c. The safety may release when pressure is applied to the trigger. This can be caused by a broken safety or by the trigger stop on the safety being worn. It can be corrected by replacing the safety. d. Operating parts which fail to move fully to the rear (short recoil) are caused by: Valve leak in gas cylinder lock screw. (Valve not fully seated.) Defective operating rod spring. Undersized piston. (Caused by the use of abrasives when cleaning the piston.)
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Posted: Wed Dec 27, 2006 6:15 am
MAINTENANCE GeneralMaintenance includes all measures taken to keep the rifle in operating condition. This includes normal cleaning, inspeniction for defective parts, repair, and lubrication.
Cleaning, Materials, Lubricants, and Equipment. a. Cleaning Materials. _1. Bore cleaner (cleaning compound solvent (CR)) is used primarily for cleaning the bore; however, it may be used on all metal parts for temporary (1-day) protection from rust. _2. Hot, soapy water or boiling water is no substitute for bore cleaner and will only be used when bore cleaner is not available. _3. Drycleaning solvent is used for cleaning rifles which are coated with grease, oil, or corrosion-preventative compounds. _4. Stubborn carbon deposits are removed by soaking in carbon removing compound (PCIII-A) and brushing. This process must be followed by the use of drycleaning solvent. Caution: Individual protective measures must be taken when using compound PCIII-A. b. Lubricants. _1. Lubricating oil, general purpose (PL special) is used for lubricating the rifle at normal temeratures. _2. Lubricating oil, weapons (LAW) is used for low temperatures (below 0 degrees). _3. OE 10 engine oil may be used as a field expedient under combat conditons when the oils prescribed in (1.) and (2.) above cannot be obtained. However, the weapon should be cleaned and lubricated with the proper lubricants as soon as possible _4. Rifle grease should be applied to those working surfaces as shown in figure 33. c. Equipment. A complete set of maintenance equipment (figure 34) and (figure 35) is stored in the stocks of the M1 and M1C rifles and consists of: M10 cleaning rod (4 sections with handle and plastic buffer). Small arms bore cleaning brush. Lubrication case. Chamber cleaning brush. (NOTE: Insure the M1 chamber brush is used. The M14 rifle chamber brush is 1/2-inch shorter and will not clean the M1 chamber).
Cleaning the Rifle a. The rifle must be cleaned after it has been fired because firing produces primer fouling, powder ashes, carbon, and metal fouling. The ammunition now manufactured has a noncorrosive primer which makes cleaning easier, but no less important. The primer still leaves a deposit that may collect moisture and promote rust if it is not removed. The cleaning described below will remove all deposits except metal fouling which is relatively uncommon and is removed by maintenance personnel. _1. Chamber. Remove the patch holder from the cleaning rod and insert two patches about halfway through the slot. Dip the patches in bore cleaner, then wring or squeeze the excess fluid from the patches. Screw the M10 cleaning rod together (less the patch holder) and insert it all the way into the bore. Flare the patches out, then insert the patch holder with the wet patches into the chamber. Push the threaded end into the chamber until it touches the cleaning rod. Hold it there with one hand and screw the cleaning rod and the patch holder together. Pull the patches to the chamber; at the same time turning the rod clockwise. Turn the rod several times, wiping the chamber thoroughly. After the chamber has been thoroughly cleaned use the chamber brush in the following manner: __a Screw a section of the M10 cleaning rod into a threaded hole of the driver ratchet. __b Place the brush into the chamber of the barrel. __c Allow the rifle bolt to close slowly against the end of the driver ratchet. __d Using the rod section as a handle, rotate the driver clockwise and counter-clockwise to loosen and clean residue from the chamber. _2 Bore. To clean the bore saturate the bore brush with cleaning compound solvent (rifle bore cleaner) and - __a Insert the bore brush into the chamber. Insert the cleaning rod into the bore and screw the brush onto the rod. __b Pull the brush through the bore. Remove the brush and repeat the procedure as often as required to clean the bore. __c Then use one cleaning patch dampened with bore cleaner in the following manner: Place the patch in the patch holder and insert it into the chamber. Insert the cleaning rod (less the patch holder) into the bore and screw it onto the patch holder. Pull the cleaning rod through the bore. Repeat this procedure using as many patches as required until the patches come through the bore clean. _3 Gas cylinder lock screw with valve assembly. Remove carbon deposits by using bore cleaner, then wipe the part and oil it lightly (do not use abrasives). Check the valve to see that it is not held open by particles of dirt or sand. _4 Piston of operating rod. Remove carbon from the piston with bore cleaner. Take care not to damage the piston. Oil it lightly after cleaning (do not use abrasives). _5 Gas Cylinder. Clean the gas cylinder with bore cleaner and with patches. _6 Face of the bolt. Clean the face of the bolt with a patch and bore cleaner, paying particular attention to its inside edges. Remove the bore cleaner with dry patches and oil the part lightly. _7 All other parts. Use a dry cloth to remove all dirt or sand from other parts and exterior surfaces. Apply a light coat of oil to the metal parts and rub raw linseed oil into the wooden parts. Care must be taken to prevent linseed oil from getting on metal parts. _8 Cleaning frequency. The rifle must be thoroughly cleaned no later than the evening of the day it is fired. For three consecutive days thereafter check for evidence of fouling by running a clean patch through the bore and inspecting it. The bore should be lightly oiled after each inspection.
Normal Maintenance a. When in use, the rifle should be inspected daily for evidence of rust and general appearance. A light coat of oil (PL Special) should be maintained on metal parts. b. The daily inspection should also reveal any defects such as burred, worn, or cracked parts. Defects should be reported to the armorer for correction. c. A muzzle plug should never be used on the rifle. It causes moisture to collect in the bore, which causes bore rust that is a safety hazard. d. Obtaining the proper rear sight tension is extremely important; without it the sight will not hold its adjustment in elevation. During normal maintenance and prior to firing, the rear sight must be checked for correct sight tension. The indications of improper sight tension are: elevation knob extremely difficult to turn, and elevation knob turn freely without an audible click. _1 If the elevation knob is extremely difficult to turn, the soldier must rotate the windage knob nut (with the scew-driver portion of the M10 cleaning rod handle) counterclockwise one click at a time. After each click an attempt should be made to turn the elevation knob. Repeat this process until the elevation knob can be turned without extreme difficulty. _2 In the event the elevation knob is extremely loose and the rear sight aperture will not raise, the windage knob nut must be turned in a clockwise direction, one click at a time, until the aperture can be raised. _3 To check for proper tension the procedures listed below should be followed: __a Raise the aperture to its full height. __b Lower the aperture two clicks. __c Grasp the rifle with the fingers around the small of the stock and exert downward pressure on the aperture with the thumb of the same hand. _4 If the aperture drops, sight tension must be adjusted. To do this the windage knob nut must be turned in a clockwise direction one click at a time until the aperture can no longer be pushed down. If the proper tension cannot be obtained, the rifle must be turned in to the unit armorer.
Special Maintenance a. Before firing the rifle, the bore and the chamber should be cleaned and dried. A light coat of oil should be placed on all other metal parts except those which come in contact with ammunition. b. Before firing, rifle grease should be applied to the parts indicated in figure 33. A small amount of grease is taken up on the stem of the grease container cap and is applied at each place. Rifle grease is not used in extremely cold temperatures or when the rifle is exposed to extremes of sand and dust. c. In cold climates (temperatures below freezing) the rifle must be kept free of moisture and excess oil. Moisture and excess oil on the working parts cause them to operate sluggishly or fail completely. The rifles must be disassembled and wiped with a clean, dry cloth. Drycleaning solvent may be used if necessary to remove oil or grease. Parts that show signs of wear may be wiped with a patch lightly dampened with lubricating oil (LAW). It is best to keep the rifle as close as possible to outside temperatures at all times to prevent the collectin of moisture which occurs when cold metal comes in contact with warm air. When the rifle is brought into a warm room, it should not be cleaned until it has reached room temperature. d. In hot, humid climates or if exposed to salt water or salt-water atmosphere, the rifle must be inspected thoroughly each day for signs of moisture and rust. It should be kept lightly oiled with special preservative lubricating oil. Raw linseed oil should be applied frequently to the wooden parts to prevent swelling. e. In hot, dry climates the rifle must be cleaned daily or more often to remove sand and/or dust from the bore and working parts. In sandy areas, the rifle should be kept dry. The muzzle and receiver should be kept covered during sand and dust storms. Wooden parts must be kept oiled with raw linseed oil to prevent drying. The rifle should be lightly oiled when sandy or dusty conditions decrease.
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Posted: Wed Dec 27, 2006 6:30 am
AMMUNITION GeneralThe M1 rifle fires several types of ammunition. The rifleman should be able to recognize them and know which type is best for certain targets. The M1, M1C and M1D Garand rifles fire .30 U.S. (.30-06) ammunition. Commercial sporting type ammunition will usually function if the bullets are of the right length, and are loaded to pressures approximating those of military loads. When using other than military issue ammunition, the sights (peep or scope) must be zeroed in for various ranges with the particular type of ammunition, due to differences in velocities and wind-bucking characteristics of the particular round. Military ammunition is marked on the tip of the bullet in color, indicating the type of bullet.
Description a. Ball, M-2. The cartridge is intended for use against personnel or unarmored targets and identified by a plain bullet tip. It has a gilding-metal jacket. Type Classification: OBS - MSR 11756003 b. Armor Piercing, M-2. This cartridge is used against lightly armored vehicles, protective shelters, and personnel, and can be identified by its black bullet tip. Penetration, fired at 7/8-inch (22.23 mm) thick homogeneous armor plate at 100 yards (91 m), will be not less than 0.42 inch (10.66 mm). Type Classification: OBS - MSR 11756003 c. Armor Piercing Incendiary, M-14. This cartridge is used, in place of the armor piercing round, against flammable targets. Penetration, fired at 7/8-inch (22.23 mm) thick homogeneous armor plate at 100 yards (91 m), will be not less than 0.42 inch (10.66 mm). Upon impact with a target, the incendiary composition bursts into flame and will ignite flammable material. The tip of the bullet is colored with aluminum or white paint. Incendiary composition: 2 grains (0.13 g) IM 11 Type Classification: OBS - MSR 11756003 d. Incendiary, M-1. This cartridge is used against unarmored, flammable targets. The tip of the bullet is painted blue. e. Tracers-M-1 and M-25. These cartridges are for use in observing fire, signaling, target designation, and incendiary purposes. The tips of the bullets are painted red for the M1 and orange for the M25. Type Classification: OBS - MSR 11756003 Type Classification: OBS - MSR 11756003 f. Blank, M-1909. This cartridge is used to simulate rifle fire, firing salutes, training and signaling. The cartridge is identified by having no bullet, and by the cannelure in the neck of the case which is sealed by red lacquer. Type Classification: OBS - MSR 11756003 g. Rifle Grenade Cartridge, M-3. The cartridge provides the pressure, on functioning, to project rifle grenades when using a grenade projection adapter. The cartridge has no bullet. Type Classification: OBS - MSR 11756003 h. Dummy, M-40. This cartridge is used for mechanical training. These are two types. One has longitudal grooves in the case, and is usually tin plated. Another merely has small holes in the case, and no primer. These are also of use on the range when mixed in with a clip of ammo, to detect flinching on the part of the firer. Type Classification: STD - OTCM 37119 i. Match. This cartridge, used in marksmanship competition firing, can be identified by the word "MATCH" on the head stamp. Type Classification: STD - OTCM 37119 j. Frangible ball M-22. The bullet disintegrates upon striking a hard or armored target, leaving a pencil-like mark to indicate a hit during gunnery practice. The cartridge is identified by a green bullet tip with a white ring to the rear of the green color. Type Classification: OBS - MSR 11756003 k. High Pressure Test ball M-1. The cartridge is used to proof test caliber .30 rifles and machine guns during manufacture, test, or repair. The cartridge is identified by stannic-stained (silvered) cartridge case. Type Classification: STD - OTCM 37119 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The approximate maximum range and average muzzle velocity of the .30 ammunition issued for the M1 rifles is: Cartridge Maximum Range (yds) Feet Per Second Ball, M-2 3,500 2,800 Tracer, M-1 3,350 2,750 Incendiary, M-1 2,875 3,020 Armor-piercing, M-2 3,160 2,770 Armor Piercing, Incendiary M-14 3,300 2,830 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Ammunition for the .30 M1 series of rifles usually comes packed in eight-round clips, which in turn are packed in bandoleers, and in metal cans. Ammunition may also come packed in 20-round boxes.
The standard means for carrying ammunition for the M1 was in the cartridge belt. The M1923 cartridge belt adopted for use with the M1903 Springfield rifle and its five round chargers was the belt originally issued with the M1. This belt had ten pockets which could hold either two 5 round '03 chargers or one eight round M1 clip each. After the adoption of the M1, the Model 1938 cartridge belt was adopted. This belt was essentially identical to the earlier M1923 belt but had twelve pockets instead of ten to provide extra ammunition for the greater firepower of the M1. Further Details: AMMO
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Posted: Thu Dec 28, 2006 4:39 am
ACCESSORIES Sling  Bayonet MODEL 1905. Made by Springfield Armory and Rock Island Arsenal from 1906-1922. 16" blade, originally bright polished finish, then blued, then parkerized. Scabbards were the Model 1905 (all leather) and Model 1910 (canvas and leather) M1 10" Parkerized finish. Made by American Fork and Hoe, Oneida Limited, Union Fork and Hoe, Pal Blade and Tool, Utica Cutlery. 1943-1945. Some production in 1953. M7 scabbard M5/M5-1/M5A1 6" blade. Made by Aerial Cutlery, J&D Tool, Imperial Cutlery, Milpar Columbus, and Utica Cutlery. Adopted in 1953. MODEL 1905 Same as above with 16" blades. Parkerized finish. Not nearly as well made as the arsenal made bayonets. Made by commercial contractors. Made by Utica Cutlery, Oneida Limited, Wilde Drop Forge and Tool, Pal Blade and Tool, American Fork and Hoe, and Union Fork and Hoe. Scabbards same as above plus the M3 fiber scabbard adopted 1941. 1942-1943 MODEL 1905E1 16" blades as noted above and cutdown to 10" blades. Cutdown by same commercial contractors which made the WW2 production M1905. 1943 M3 scabbard cut down to 10" with nomenclature M3A1.Grenade Launcher (M7/M7A1/M7A3) It was fit onto the barrel using the M7 spigot. It was sighted using the M15 sight, which fit just forward of the trigger. A cleaning tool, oiler and greasepots could be stored in two cylindrical compartments in the buttstock for use in the field. Because of the limitations of the Garand's clip-loading magazine, the rifle proved less than ideal for use in launching grenades, and the M1903 Springfield was retained for use in that role long after grenade launchers for the Garand became available.Winter Trigger It is said to have been developed during the Korean War. It consisted in a small mechanism installed on the trigger guard, allowing the soldier to remotely pull the trigger by depressing a lever just behind the guard. This enabled the shooter to fire his weapon while using winter gloves, which could get "stuck" on the trigger guard or not allow for proper movement of the finger. The device, however, left the trigger completely exposed, and it is unlikely that the mechanism was left mounted, as it could easily cause the rifle to be fired accidentally. Combo Tool Known as "Tool, combination, screw driver, wire brush, and bolt assembly and disassembly", this can be stored in the buttstock of the M1 Garand rifle and it is a veritable toolbox of useful items. The combo tool can be used to do the following tasks: removal and replacement of the gas cylinder lock screw, removal and replacement of other screws such as the buttplate screws, seating the rear sight base, extract cartridge case, remove various pins, aid in removing or assembling ejector, aid in removing or assembling extractor, clean the barrel chamberButtstock Cleaning Kit Includes: Steel cleaning rod Gas port tool Oil and solvent bottle Grease Bore brush Patch tip Cartridge Belt (M1923) 10 pocket Garand Cartridge belt. The belts were used to transport 30-06 ammunition.
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Posted: Thu Dec 28, 2006 4:42 am
HISTORICAL USE Although officially adopted in 1932, it did not formally enter service until 1936, and then only through an executive decision by then-Army Chief of Staff General Douglas MacArthur. The first production model was successfully proof-fired, function-fired, and fired for accuracy on July 21, 1937. Following the outbreak of World War II in Europe, Winchester Repeating Arms Company of New Haven, Connecticut, was awarded a production contract. Winchester deliveries began in 1941 and ended in 1945. The British Army tested the M1 Garand as a possible replacement for its Lee-Enfield No.1 Mk III bolt-action rifle, but rejected it after a series of environmental tests designed to simulate combat conditions. The M1's semi-automatic capability gave United States forces a significant advantage in firepower and shot-to-shot response time over individual enemy infantry in battle (German and Japanese soldiers were usually armed with manually operated bolt-action rifles). The impact of the Garand and faster-firing infantry small arms in general soon stimulated both Allied and Axis forces to greatly augment issue of semi- and fully-automatic weapons then in production, as well as to develop new types of infantry firearms. The Garand remains popular among civilian weapons collectors and enthusiasts all over the world. General George S. Patton acknowledged the rifle's prowess when he called it "the greatest implement of battle ever devised." Much of the M1 rifle inventory in the post-WWII period underwent arsenal repair or rebuilding. While U.S. forces were still engaged in the Korean War, the Department of Defense determined a need for additional production of the Garand, and two new contracts were awarded. During the period of 1953 to 1956, M1 Garand rifles were produced by International Harvester at their Evansville, Indiana, facility and by Harrington & Richardson Arms Co. in Worcester, Massachusetts. The Beretta firm in Italy also produced Garands using Winchester tooling. Most recently, the M1 was produced by Springfield Armory, Inc. of Geneseo, Illinois, which is a commercial firm sharing the name of the military arsenal. This commercial variant is offered in either .30-06 Springfield or .308 Winchester chambering. The M1 proved to be an excellent rifle throughout its service in World War II and the Korean War. The Japanese even developed a prototype copy for their own use near the end of World War II, but it never reached the production stage. Some Garands were still being used in the Vietnam War in 1963; despite the M14's official adoption in 1957, it was not until 1965 that the changeover from the M1 Garand was completed (with the exception of the sniper variants, which were introduced in WWII and saw action in Korea and Vietnam). Some military drill teams still use the M1, including the U.S. Marine Corps Silent Drill Team, and the Norwegian Royal Guards Drill Team. In certain high school Junior Reserve Officer Training Corps (JROTC) units, M1 rifles are used for regular and interschool competition drills, including elaborate exhibition spinning routines similar to a majorette spinning a baton. For safety reasons, JROTC M1s are permanently disabled to fire by having a metal rod welded into the barrel. In place of wooden stocks, exhibition teams often use fiberglass stocks, the former being heavier and more prone to breakage when dropped.
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Posted: Thu Dec 28, 2006 4:45 am
APPENDIX If there is any info to be added....
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Posted: Thu Dec 28, 2006 5:00 am
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Posted: Thu Dec 28, 2006 9:42 am
COMMENTS I'll be taking notes of your comments, which I will list here.
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