Istanbul is the only city in the world to straddle two continents - Europe and Asia. Known throughout history as Constantinople, it's been the centre of two of the greatest empires the world has ever seen. It's created an identity all of its own. Istanbul today is no dusty backwater rather a vast city of 10 million people. Despite no longer being the capital of Turkey, it's still its biggest and most important city.
Head for the tower
Five times a day the call to prayer resounds across Istanbul, a timely reminder that this is still one of the most important Islamic cities in the world. Orientating yourself here can be daunting. So first, head for the 14th century Galata Tower, where you will get an impressive view over both the old and new city, the Golden Horn, the entrance to the Black Sea, and the channel that eventually takes you out to the Med.
Craig started off exploring the streets around the base of the tower, in a district called Beyoglu which, 100 years ago, was the most cosmopolitan in the city, a kind of middle eastern New York, home to thousands of Greeks, Russians and Jews. Today the district is more Turkish.
Craig also headed for one of the area's modern new restaurants for a run-down on Istanbul's ancient past with historian Jenk Kivanc. Jenk explained the arrival in the city of the Romans, the Byzantines, and then the Ottomans. Downtown Istanbul, otherwise known as the old city, is the historic centre. It's where all the sights, which we traditionally associate with Istanbul, can be found. The Grand Bazaar is part of the old town, and is in fact, the oldest indoor market in the world. A maze of alleyways and malls covering nearly 40 hectares, it even has its own mosque, banks and police station. While it is an oriental wonderland for tourists, the bazaar, away from the main shopping drag, is still very much a market when Istanbul's residents shop.
Istanbul was the centre of the Islamic world for over 600 years. It has over two and a half thousand mosques, many of them among Islam's most revered. Suleymaniye is one of Istanbul's finest. Built nearly 500 years ago, it was the crowning achievement of Mimar Sinan, Islam's most famous architect.
The city by night
In recent years Islamic politicians have attempted to clamp down on Istanbul's night life but to no avail. Every year more bars, restaurant and clubs open up and at the heart of the action is the Beyoglu district, where the streets are jammed most nights of the week into the small hours.
Cicek Pasaji is just off Istiklal Street, and a very popular drinking and eating spot with tourists. Prices here tend to be above average though. Just down the street and around the corner from here though is Nevizade Street, a very busy street with a great atmosphere, and packed full of restaurants frequented by locals. Craig moved on and tried out Bilsak Fifth Floor, one of Istanbul's more laid back bars.
Craig stayed at the Merit Antique Hotel, which has a five star rating. Whilst the prices are good, Craig did find the rooms a bit dated.
Istanbul's two most famous sights are The Blue Mosque (Sultan Ahmet Camii) and, on the other side of Sultanahmet square, Haghia Sophia (Aya Sofya in Turkish). Of the two it's Haghia Sophia that deserves most of your attention. This is one of the world's greatest buildings in Craig's opinion. Once Istanbul rivalled Rome as the centre of the Christian World, and Haghia Sophia was the most important Church in Christendom. It was completed in 537 AD and to this day remains the fourth largest church ever built.
Istanbul is one place in the world where you can live in Asia and commute to work in Europe or vice versa. Ferries criss-cross the Bospherous, carrying the intercontinental commuters from shore to shore. Joining the commuters on the River Bospherous is one of Istanbul's must dos, a cruise along the grand Ottoman-mansioned shores. The daily cruises last up to five hours and you can get off at any one of a number of towns that line the route.
Just an hour on the ferry and you reach picturesque Bospherous towns like Istinye, a welcome respite from big city life, and this is where Craig discovered the Bospherous equivalent of the roadside cafe, serving up fried fish sandwiches.
(kız kulesi)
