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 Posted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 9:08 am
The information in this thread is provided to you by Morphine Kiss who granted permission to copy her thread. The original creator of the guide would also like to add that you can PM her with any questions.
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Posted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 9:16 am
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Posted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 9:18 am
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Posted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 9:20 am
Types of Hamsters
Have you ever walked into a pet store and wondered why there are so many hamsters, that have the same general body type, but with different names? Or even the fact that there are tiny sized hamsters as well?
Well have no fear, because i'm here to clear that up a tad bit for you!
Syrian Hamsters
Syrian Hamsters are the most varied of all hamsters, in color. This is where Pet Stores are going to make the biggest buck. Syrian hamsters however, should never be kept in pairs or groups due to their aggressive nature.
Here is where it can get confusing for some owners, though, because on top of there being Teddy Bears and Fancies, you get stuck with names added on to entice the person even more, and here I will list a few common names.
The following syrian hamster names/info have been taken from IHANA
Black Bear- A Black Syrian hamster. Just like any other Syrian hamster except it's Black. Not a single bear gene in the whole genotype. Invented by pet shops years ago, and they're still charging up to $25 a hamster for them in some places.
Panda Bear- As above, a routine Black Syrian hamster, this time with a white band around its middle. Properly called a Banded Black Syrian or Black Banded Syrian.
Polar Bear - An all white Syrian except for the ears and can have either red or black eyes. Correct name is Dark Eared White, Flesh Eared White or Black Eyed White depending on the specific ear and eye color. It's been around for decades but some shops have moved many more of this color just by changing the name.
Teddy Bear - No, no, no. This is a Longhaired Syrian. Just as in some dog breeds where there are longhaired and shorthaired versions.
Calico - Hamsters are not cats. In hamsters, it is Tortoiseshell and White (TSW). Most commonly, a TSW refers to a Black Tortoiseshell (patches of Black and Yellow) with a white pattern gene that adds areas of white. In America, you will hear them also called Tricolors. While not strictly proper, this term is more accepted here than in Britain.
Dalmation - Colored hamster with white spotting. It's a Dominant Spot Syrian (usually black).
Harlequin - This one is infrequent and it's hard to know exactly what it is. Generally, it's used for a tortoiseshell.
European Black Bear - An upgrade on "Black Bear," it's the same thing. There is a real European hamster, but it's a different species entirely - larger, not a good pet, endangered in the wild, and illegal to keep in most places.
Honey Bear - Before you think that the "bear" trend is getting stale, here is another. Usually, it's a Black Eyed Cream or Cinnamon Syrian, but fanciful pet shop employees have been known to stick this label on any "honey-ish" color that comes along.
Brown Bear- Yet another "bear" name, this one is usually given to a Chocolate Syrian, which are becoming more common in the US pet market.
Hershey Bear- The same thing as a "Brown Bear", actually a Chocolate Syrian.
Blue - A Roan Syrian, usually a Sable Roan.
Blue Sable - Simply a Sable Syrian. All colors can exhibit a range of tones, and a "bluish" tone in some led one person to start labelling them as if they were a new color.
Alien - A Syrian hamster with a double dose of the Hairless gene, ipso facto, a Hairless Syrian. Too bad this one is out there at all, with or without a proper name.
Fancy - This one isn't any particular color or coat type. The term is used by pet shops to connote anything they wish to identify as unusual and charge more for.
Dwarf Hamsters
Dwarf hamsters were not always the most common of pet hamsters, but over the years they have been coming up in popularity. There are 4 types of Dwarf Hamsters that I will discuss here, but break down into 2 groups. Dwarf hamsters should almost always be kept in pairs, and groups are easier to manage.
Russian Hamsters
-Roborovski
The Smallest of all Hamsters, this hamster can be characterized with a gray to sandy color on top, and white underbelly, with a husky like face. They are very fast, and hard to train for handling. However, within the last year one new coloration has appeared; which is a spotty gray and white color.
-Campbells
Campbells vary in color the most of all dwarf hamsters. They can come in almost any color that a Syrian can come in, and continue to be bred more and more in order to bring out new colors for the pet industry. They are larger than the Robo Hamster, and much easier to handle.
-Winter White
Winter White Hamsters were once confused with the Campbells Hamsters and also classified in the same group. However, they were discovered to change colors in the winter, hence how they get their names. They come in a light brown to a dark brown color with a line down their back. They are the same size as Campbells as well.
Chinese Hamsters
There is only one variation of Chinese Hamster, and that is the Chinese Hamster. They are half the size of a Syrian Hamster, but with a long tail. There is some coloration to them, and more is being found about them. They are also illegal in a few states.
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Posted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 9:24 am
Getting a Hamster
Getting your first hamster is a big step! It isn't simple, it isn't cheap, and it's going to be work.
1.)Research! Go to your local library and read up on the books it has. Google information, but don't take one website and only use that. Compare information, talk to breeders, maybe join a forum, and you can even ask here any questions!
2.) Have an idea in your mind where you're going to buy your friend. Do research on your local places, make sure they take care of their animals.
3.) Make a check list of things to buy, which we can provide a simple one here in this post.
4.) Buy your cage first. Make sure it's an appropriate size for your type of hamster. Remember, store bought cages are almost never appropriate cages for hamsters, in fact, most owners will use Aquariums instead, such as 10-29 Gallon or Larger. Even more common are home made cages made out of storage bins and storage totes, which we will discuss at a later point.
5.) You should also buy your food first as well, because as much as you think it may not be common to do so, people tend to forget food on their list of things to buy. Your hamster's home should be well set up with food dish, with food in it, and water bottle, bedding within, before you even bring your hamster home. Please also keep in mind that there are some brands that are better than other brands of hamster food. Generally, people use the normal hamster seed for hamsters. However, some people will use Rodent Blocks and give their hamsters daily vegetables.
6.) Make the decision, free roam, or hamster ball? A hamster ball can not be used as long as letting your hamster free roam, because when your chubby cheeked friend decides to pee, it will get on it's fur, and create high humidity in the ball. If you decide on free roam, you must keep in mind you need to hamster proof your free roam area.
7.) Another decision is male or female, and which breed? Dwarf or Syrian? And from there, which specific type within those two groups. Remember, always get same sex pairs or groups.
8.) Now, head to the place in which you're going to receive your pal from. Pick out your new friend(s), and remember, it's a commitment!
Hamster Checklist
In this check list I will be accounting for a cage that does not have anything come with it, such as a home made storage tote or tank would.
1- Buy the cage, or supplies to make the cage, set it all up
2- Bedding
3- Food Bowl & Food
4- Water Bottle
5- Hamster Wheel
6- Hiding House
7- Chew Toys, Treats
8- Last but not least, your hamster(s)!
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Posted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 9:28 am
Q&A
In this section I will address common questions oriented towards hamsters. If you would like to see a question you feel is common here, please post in the thread or send me a PM.
Q: Do all hamster have the same care?
A: No, they do not. Syrian Hamsters are far different than dwarf hamsters, the most obvious different care technique would be the size of cages and how they differentiate between hamsters. The other thing to keep in mind that every hamster has it's own standard of personality.
Q: Do all hamsters bite?
A: Anything with teeth has the ability to bite.
Q: Do they have good eye sight?
A: Not exactly. They can really only see a few inches ahead of them. Some claim that their hamsters enjoy watching the television, while this may be true, they may just enjoy watching different blurry colors go back and forth.
Q: Do Hamsters take Baths?
A: Yes and No. A hamster should never be put into a situation with a tub of water. In the event your hamster ever gets dirty you need to take a damp rag and clean off what is on the hamster, but normally a hamster will clean itself. In some occasions, hamsters will need to have some of their hair cut off to get very sticky things out of fur, but this should only apply to teddy bears. In the event your hamster has buildup of oils, they require a dust bath.
Q: My Wheel is Squeaky! Help?
A: First you need to look at what kind of wheel you're using, if it's a silent spinner, take it back, they should never squeak. However if it's a variety of other wheels, just put some vegetable oil where the wheel rubs against whatever holds it together.
Q: How often should I clean my cage?
A: The size of your cage, and type of bedding, is going to be dependent on your cleaning schedule. Try to always keep something around with your hamsters scent, be it a house or a toy, because this will keep them from marking territory right away after a full cage clean.
Q: How deep should my bedding be?
A: Deep enough for the hamster to burrow and nest in.
Q: Is owning a hamster cheap?
A: No animal is cheap, because at some point you may need to take your hamster to a Vet which can rack up a lot of money. In general though, all vet costs aside, the most expensive thing will be your additional costs in setting up and buying your hamster.
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Posted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 9:29 am
Nutrition
Most of this section will be taken from here as it is easier for me to take it from there, than to explain it in my own opinion. For more detailed versions of this, just visit that page.
The primary items of a balanced diet are:
Proteins
Carbohydrates and Fats
Vitamins
Minerals
Water
Proteins: Necessary for growth and tissue-building and are especially important for young stock and pregnant mothers. Good sources of protein are barley, beans, corn, nuts, oats, peas and wheat.
Carbohydrates and Fats: Provide energy and warmth; but if fed in excess are stored in the body as fat, which can cause breeding problems and ill health. Carbohydrates are found in sugar, yeast, potato and milk. Both carbohydrates and fat are found in barley, corn, oats and wheat.
Vitamins: Only small amounts of vitamins are required; but they are essential to your hamster's good health. Lack of vitamins can create several health problems.
Minerals: Again, minerals are only required in small amounts and are basically found in milk, vegetables, green foods and grains.
Water: Of course. Water bottles are preferred over dishes because the dishes are easily upset, flipped over and fouled.
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Treats
Eggs: Hamsters love hard-boiled eggs and they are high in protein. However, eggs should remain an occasional treat.
Fish Liver Oil: Rich in Vitamins A and D, a few drops of fish-liver oil on top of the grain can be given once a week.
Mixed Bird Seed: Another ideal supplement is the seed sold for budgerigars and canaries. It can either be mixed with the grain or a teaspoonful can be fed once a week.
Yeast: Yeast is rich in Vitamin B which acts on the nervous system and is extremely effective in reducing stress. Feeding yeast once a week could very well be one of the greatest preventative measures for many illnesses. Give a pinch of nutritional yeast once a week. (Nutritional yeast, found in health food stores, isn't bitter like baker's yeast and your hamster will relish the flavor.) As an alternative, one-half of a yeast tablet found in pet shops for dogs and cats can be fed once a week
Yogurt: Yogurt can fight off infections in a lot of animals, including humans! A small yogurt drop a week is fine.
Dried fruit: Dried fruit is a sugary treat and easily found just about anywhere, they even have specific dried fruit found in stores just for hamsters. It's a favorite among many hamsters.
Vegetables: Vegetables are debated, as some believe it should be a daily thing, while some do not. However, a baby carrot or peas or even broccoli, is never a bad thing to addition into your hamster's diet.
Can I teach my Hamster Tricks?
Of course! Hamsters can very easily learn to do tricks. Will it do back flips? Probably not, but there are many tricks out there to be taught.
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Posted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 9:31 am
Cages
The very best type of cage you can set up for your furry pal is a Bin Cage, these are more common than one would imagine. However, there are other options out there, one including the Aquarium option which I myself use for now.
It's very rare to find a store bought cage that is actually suitable for hamsters. Normally too, if it's marketed for hamster, it isn't for hamsters. The fun cages you tend to find in stores too tend to be way too small for even a dwarf hamster to live in, space wise. They truly need more space than you think. However, if you had enough money, and enough free time, you could probably put together a lot of cages and tubes making a good dwarf home, but I couldn't imagine trying to clean it.
Beddings
I would first like to discuss bedding in this topic, I will list safe and non safe beddings. Remember, this list is not a complete list as there are always brands being marketed and different things for different regions. But if you have questions, feel free to ask.
Safe
Carefresh
Aspen
Cell-Sorb Plus
Critter Country
Pocket Pet Gazzette
Yesterday's News
Newspaper
Woody Pet
Fleece
Toxic
Cedar
Pine
Pay attention to your newspaper as well, some has toxic ink.
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Finding a cage
First off I will start with a couple of links on how to build a bin cage, it's very simple. I will also leave it up to you, obviously, to choose what kind of cage you will buy, or make. I suggest a tank or a bin cage, though, thoroughly suggest.
Hamster Central
Wiki How
Now keep in mind, you can do ANYTHING you imagine with a bin, you just need to think it up. Here are some example cages. You can also do just the same as I did for these examples, and google.
Example 1
Example 2
Example 3
Example 4
Example 5
Example 6
Example 7
Don't forget there are options of tanks, as well.
Example 1
Example 2
Example 3
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Accessories
Choosing what goes inside of your home is as important as choosing the home itself. There are things that are safe, and things that are not.
For example, I would not use metal or metal-mesh wheels as I have personally had problems with them, as well as there are the obvious warnings.
-A wheel like This a hamster can easily get his leg caught by tripping or falling, and break a leg.
-Wheels like This commonly have problems breaking, like one of the mesh pieces come up to form a bit of a spike that can break a hamster's foot open. This happened to one of my own hamsters.
Both of those wheels also have a high chance of the hamster getting bumblefoot from, from not enough cleaning, or too much running.
Now, as far as safe wheels go; there are many, but to name a couple;
-Flying Saucer
-Comfort Wheel
-Silent Spinner
There are many houses you can choose from when picking out a hiding spot for your hamster. It's good to have a couple hiding spots too, instead of just one.
Make sure your hamster can comfortably hide in the house, stand up, and turn around, and cuddle perfectly amongst his bedding, or even his cage mates.
There are also a variety of hamster toys you can get as well. Just to list a few,
-Treat K-Bob
-Toilet Paper Tubes
-Nesting Material
-Wooden Chews
-Wooden ABC Blocks
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Posted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 9:34 am
Health
Keep in mind that hamsters can get sick, or hurt, just like any other animal. A Vet Visit is almost always necessary to ensure that your hamster gets well, and remains well. Your hamster pall may cost 10 dollars, but your vet bill may cost 100 dollars. They are not disposable animals.
I will list here a few common illnesses using This guide, however this will not be all the common illnesses to please reference that guide to find more.
ALLERGIES: Hamsters can become allergic to bedding (particularly cedar shavings), some foods, cigarette smoke, perfumes, furniture polish, etc. It is also thought that some allergies are hereditary. Increased scratching, sneezing, runny eyes, swollen feet, wheezing or white flakes around the eyes and ears after the introduction of something new are a sign of a possible allergic reaction. Remove whatever has been added to the cage or food and watch for signs of improvement. If there is no improvement within a couple of days, it might be the result of an infection and veterinarian advice should be sought.
BLADDER OR KIDNEY INFECTION: One of the first signs is excessive drinking, which in turn creates increased urinating. Occasionally there is blood in the urine and the hamster may squeal in pain while urinating. Immediate veterinarian assistance is required.
CANCER & TUMORS: Both internal and external cancerous tumors can develop. The external tumors are generally noticed as a hard lump that grows rapidly. It is possible for a veterinarian to successfully remove external tumors. However, internal tumors are not normally diagnosed early enough for surgical intervention. Symptoms include weight loss and a general appearance of being ill.
COLDS & INFLUENZA: Humans can transmit viral infections (colds and flu) to hamsters. Hamster colds can rapidly turn into pneumonia and death. Symptoms include sneezing, running nose, sometimes watery eyes and a high temperature, which is normally accompanied by lethargy. Treatment includes antibiotics prescribed by a veterinary, which may also be administered to prevent secondary infections. Keeping the hamster warm is essential. Vicks placed out of reach of the ill hamster but close enough to inhale will assist breathing and can help alleviate some congestion. Also, an old English remedy is lukewarm milk and water with a teaspoon of honey; but if improvement is not seen within two days treatment should be sought from a veterinary. Weight loss, shivering and chattering and conjunctivitis may indicate Pasteur Ella pneumotropica, an infection of the lungs. Again, treatment is antibiotics as prescribed by the veterinarian.
DIABETES: Although it can affect all species, diabetes is normally seen in the Campbells Dwarfs and is assumed to be an inherited disease. It generally strikes between 7 and 9 months of age and can be triggered by diet, stress or a dirty cage. Symptoms include excessive drinking and urinating and possibly shaking, trembling and a low body temperature. Severe cases can also result in a coma. Contact a veterinarian at the earliest signs. Although there is no cure for diabetes, steps can be taken to enhance the quality of life for the ailing hamster. For rehydration purposes, with veterinarian directions, a solution of unflavored pedialyte can be given in the water bottle. If a sugar free diet is recommended, the following can be fed: a good quality seed mix, alfalfa, carrots, potatoes and boiled egg. Don't feed any of the commercially prepared hamster treats since many of them contain molasses and corn syrup
DIARRHEA: Do not confuse diarrhea with Wet Tail. Diarrhea is generally the result of overfeeding fresh vegetables and fruit, a sudden dietary change or mild stress. (Improperly cleaned water bottles with a build up of green algae can also cause diarrhea.) Symptoms include loose droppings that are lighter in color than normal and a wet or dirty "bottom." Remove all fresh fruits and vegetables and keep him/her on a diet of dry grains, burned toast and plenty of water. Fresh produce can be introduced after the condition has subsided for two or three days. If the diarrhea does not improve within a few days, veterinarian advice should be sought.
EAR INFECTION: Lack of balance and a tilted head are the normal symptoms of an ear infection. Antibiotics, as prescribed by the veterinarian will generally clear up the infection in a few days.
HAIR LOSS: (Alopecia): Hair loss in older hamsters is frequently seen as a result of chronic renal failure. Loss of hair can also be the result of rubbing on the wheel, leaking water bottle or abrasive bedding. A low protein diet is also associated with hair loss, generally a diet with less than 16% protein. Or a secondary dietary problem is overfeeding "heat" producing grains and cereals, such as corn. This is easily remedied by increasing fruits and vegetables in the diet or by feeding half the dry grain/seed mix with boiled rice or puffed rice cereal. There are two different treatments for general hair loss: 1) one or two drops of cod-liver oil daily; 2) crush a yeast tablet (without garlic, which is hard on hamsters kidneys) in top of the food for three or four days, then decrease to once a week.
HEAT STROKE: Sometimes referred to as Sleeper disease. In extreme temperatures, hamsters are not able to cool themselves and can go into a state appearing to be a deep sleep. The rigid and lifeless hamster may tremble or move its head from side to side and the fur may be wet and matted. It can be splashed with cool water and should be placed in a cooler area and encouraged to drink after it has recovered. It is essential to rehydrate as soon as possible to avoid possible kidney failure. It should return to normal behavior in approximately 10 minutes. If not, veterinarian assistance should be obtained.
HIBERNATION: Although hibernation is not an illness, animals in hibernation are frequently mistaken for ill hamsters. Syrians are more prone to hibernation if there is a sudden drop in the temperature, which will trigger reduced pulse and respiratory rate that results in a lifeless body that appears to be dead; however, close observation will reveal that the whiskers are generally still moving. Move the hamster to a warmer room and let it arouse slowly on its own accord. Or, hold it until it starts to revive. If it is not aroused it could die of starvation or dehydration. Sometimes it will shake just before totally coming out of hibernation. Hamsters should be kept in rooms or buildings with even temperatures and have a good supply of bedding to prevent hibernation.
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Posted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 9:37 am
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Posted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 9:38 am
Rainbow Bridge
If you want to honor your passed on hamster, post a photo in this thread with the name of the hamster, and you may say something about them as well. Their photo/name/your name/description will be posted on this post.
Please upload pictures to tinypic.com and make them 320x240. Thankyou.
Daisy May - Morphine Kiss
Prometheus - Morphine Kiss
Captain Patch - Morphine Kiss
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Posted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 9:39 am
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Posted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 9:40 am
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Posted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 9:41 am
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Posted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 9:42 am
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Reply
