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Did you just switch to size 4?? Maybe you should step back down to 3.5.

OR go and get a new mouthpiece, because if you are still using the one that came with your clarinet, it might not be able to withstand the bigger reed. A Vandoren mouthpiece should do the trick. Run over to the music store and ask for a Vandoren mouthpiece and ask for the model that would be best for what you're doing. Then the new mouthpiece should help your tone and it should also solve the reed size problem,

I see you've probably already had your solo but, if you're still having problems:

If you want to try different reed strengths and brands, consult Rico's Clarinet Reed Strength Comparison Chart to see how the numbers of different brands compare in terms of actual strength. Within a week before an important performance, do not mess with screws yourself unless you really know what you're doing. On clarinet, there are a lot of pivot screws that have to be neither too tight or too loose or the keys won't work properly. There are also rods which may become bent if you happen to drop or bang up your keys and if you turn them, they may and up making the keys freeze. You should only adjust screws that are in danger of falling out. Sometimes, repair shops will use a special chemical in the screw threads to keep screws that have a tendency to fall out from doing so and if you turn the screw when it doesn't need to be turned, you can break the seal the chemical made when it dried and then the screws will back themselves out anyways. An instrument treated well should not need screw adjusted between yearly visits to a repair shop. I used to work in musical instrument repair on clarinets and I've learned "the hard way" that you can't always see how badly bent keys are until you go turning the screw to take the key off and it freezes. There's nothing wrong with familiarizing yourself with your clarinet's screws so you can learn how it works, but don't do so when there's not time to get the instrument repaired before you have to play on it. Your instrument shouldn't be a problem on the R13 as it's Buffet's professional model (though the older, the better with most of the big names in professional models now). However, if you haven't had it in for repairs in more than a year, get it in as soon as possible. That may well solve your problems. Depending on the mouthpiece you have, you may want to think about finding whichever brand is right for you - your private instructor may be able to help with that, if you have one. Another thing to think about is just replacing your ligature, if it's getting shabby and bent out of shape. You should not be leaving your reed on the mouthpiece, but if you are then you need to stop asap. Another idea would be to oil your bore. If your clarinet is an older wooden one, you should probably oil the bore yearly. To do this, buy some quality almond oil from the grocery store and get a new pull swab. Using your old swab, follow the directions on this webpage. If you've tried all of that and are still having the problem, you should get a private lessons teacher.

It sounds more like embouchure and breath support could be a factor. If you don't support enough, the reeds will often sounds airy and sometimes people with loose embouchures don't use enough air either, so the reed doesn't vibrate enough. I doubt it's anything physically wrong with the clarinet, because in my experience repairing and maintaining them, squeaks or total lakc of sound are the result of a damaged horn, but tone usually lies with the player and his setup from the barrel up.

I'm sorry, I was speaking in generic terms.. I have rarely seen a horn produce an overall poor tone because of certain pads that leak or whatnot... because it will usually be accompanied by certain notes that may not speak or may squeak in the upper register... Based on what they're describing, the only issue is the tone and the instrument itself didnt seem a likely culprit.

I am offended at that comment. First off, as long as the cane is good and the reed is thick enough to start with, you can ALWAYS have a good reed, it just takes work. I have never had an issue with Vandoren reeds, and telling her to go down that much in reed size (Mitchell Lauries are softer than Vandoren) is a very bad idea. Instead, look to see what mouthpiece you're using and check online to see what size reeds it recommends. The closer the facing, the harder the reed. Next, find out for yourself if those reeds are too hard or soft for you, and instead of throwing them away if they feel to thick or unbalanced, use 700 grain sand paper or a reed resurfacing kit to thin the base and heart of the reed in very fine increments. I have reeds that are years old and they still play better than most that come out of a box (and yes, I do use them still). I would suggest at least a B45, but with a strength 4 Vandoren reed, a M30 or 5RV would work better. Always try mouthpieces before buying, and get a ligature with a metal plate with vertical lines that touch the reed. This will promote an open, free vibrating sound that will be crisp and clear for the most part. For the record, I play on strength 5 Vandoren 56's, 4.5 Vandoren V-12's, and 4 Vandoren regulars on my Bb, A, and Eb respectively.

if you think your tone is bad..try adjusting your amature

i have a B45 mouthpiece and i use 3 to 3 and a half reeds if that helps any
idea