Guinea Pig Education and Appreciation Thread

[DeeSpark]

Welcome to the Guinea Pig Eductation and Appreciation Thread




This is my old boy. RIP Pumba, I know I shouldn't have favorites but you were it buddy!

Guinea pigs are one of the most popular pets, but also one of the most neglected. This thread is here to educate people on guinea pigs and their care. It is here to inform people and stop them unknowingly neglecting their much loved pet. It is a thread where people can ask any questions about the animal they have and have them answered as soon as possible. And it is a thread, where guinea pig owners and lovers can talk and discuss all things guinea pig! So have a read through the front page, introduce any guinea pigs you have, and try to enjoy yourself!

Some info on them
Guinea pigs, also known as Cavies (Kay-vee) are a tailless rodent that originate from South America, where they are wild and may also be used as meat to eat. They (should) weigh about 700 and 1200 g (1.5–2.5 pounds), and measure between 20 and 25 cm (8–10 inches) in length. They have been used since the 1800's for research in laboratories and are believed to have been domesticated for possibly 5000 years. They are prey animals that live in herds and are very social animals. They live on an average of 5-9 years, though a healthy and well cared for guinea pig may live longer. The females are called sows, the males are called boars and the babies are not called piglets, but are called pups.

Despite what many think, they are not all about eating a pooping, though both of those are quite big past times for guinea pigs. They aren't all timid either. They also like to run around and play, burrow in things, and once bonded with humans they like to cuddle with them as well. They can be trained to do tricks as well. Being somebody who loves clicker training dogs, I have actually held myself back from training guinea pigs at the moment, as I worry i will get addicted and have no time for my other responsibilities xd But I do know it is possible.

My own Guinea pigs
Ok, so my guinea pigs don't even live how I think they deserve to. Because of my parents. It took me almost a year to get them to be allowed inside, and because I wasn't able to convince my parents to let me build a cage, and winter was coming, I ended up spending over $100 on the largest cage I could get, which is still to small, but they get lots of time in their outdoor pen (well not so much now because of the weather). I am working on building a bigger cage out of chicken wire, wood, and lino, but my mother isn't letting me at the moment because she doesn't want them and *insert a list of unrelated reasons here*.


Sorry, can't get any better pics right now. This is my latest boy, Winmar, in his pigloo. He is a real lively boy and loves being out of his cage and loves when I pick long, fresh grass for him to play in and eat. He is about maybe 6-8 months old now and I got him when he was about a month old.


This is my older boy Nibbles, though he doesn't nibble quite so much anymore, he is about a year and 3 months I think now, and I have had him since he was 3 weeks old. He loves running through pipes and hanging out in the pigloo. Carrots seem to be one of his favorite foods, though I think both my boys like fresh grass and lettuce the most.

Links
http://www.guineapigcages.com/index.htm
http://www.cavyspirit.com/
http://www.guinealynx.info/

A list of really useful threads on a variety of other pets:
For the Betterment and Education of the pets! forum

[DeeSpark]

Common Myths about Guinea Pigs

There's a lot of info on guinea pigs out there. Some good, some bad. Here's a few common myths, that many people believe, but that aren't true:

Guinea pigs can use exercise wheels/balls/saucers No. They are not hamsters. They aren't flexible enough to use balls/wheels. They have been known to cripple poor pigs. These are on the no-no list for toys. Their back is shaped like a rainbow, rather then a U shape, and their backs are not flexible.

They can live in small cages 7.5 ft or 0.7 sq m, should be the minimum space for ONE pig, and more is better. They need room to run around and explore, something many small cages you can get at the pet store can't offer. Remember that the cage is where they will spend most of their time. It's their house. Would you rather live in a good sized house for you, or just a big bathroom? That's what a lot of small cages are really...

You can't house two males together! They'll fight Two males can get on just fine, unless there is a female in the cage. Females don't always get on with each other either. It's just about finding the guinea pigs with the right personalities (and same gender)

Guinea pigs LOVE people/ Hate people Whether a guinea pig likes being handled, and likes the company of the owner all depends on how much it gets handled, and how nice your treating it. If you pick you pig up by the leg to get it onto your lap once a week, it's not going to like you. It'll be terrified of course. If you hand feed it, be a part of it's daily life, and gently handle it daily (maybe with some food) it'll love you.

They make great pets for children! Guinea pigs are fragile. Children are often very rough with pets. These animals need a responsible adult as their main carer, and are not a pet to be 'for the kids'. Children can help you maintain the cage and have gentle, supervised lap times with the guinea pigs. So long as you educate them on the species, don't let them play with the pigs unsupervised and the animal is a family pet

They stink and they are dirty If your guinea pig stinks, you either just don't like the smell of them, or you need to take a little more care in looking after the cage. If the cage is spot cleaned (taking poos and possible wet bits of bedding), and the bedding is changes regularly, has good air circulation, plus you feed a good diet, the cage should not stink. You can give your pigs a bath, but it should not be done more then every 3 months. They are not dirty animals. Like most rodents out there, they groom themselves a lot and are quite clean.
*More myths to be added later*

[DeeSpark]

Diet
Guinea pigs are strict herbivores. They require atleast one cup of veggies daily, good quality pellets (most people I've talked to feed about 2 tablespoons a day, and that is what I feed) and unlimited hay. That is for one pig, by the way, not per cage.

Vegetables
They need a variety of veggies. They should be getting at the very least, two different types a day (3-5 is better).
First rule: Don't give anything you wouldn't eat yourself. Many people argue that they are wild and can handle it. They are domesticated. Wild Cavies only live for about a year.

Good veggies to feed: Lettuce (NOT Iceberg!), Bell peppers/capsicum, Celery (chopped finely to prevent choking on the stings), Cucumber, Brocolli, Cherry tomatoes, carrots (sugery), spinich, and many more.
You can also feed fruits, but feed sparingly, as they contain a lot of suger.

Foods to stay away from include: Patato peelings, Ice berg lettuce (won't kill if you feed a little bit but cause diarrhea, Cabbage (won't kill if fed a little bit, but not to great for their systems), Raw beans (not counting green beens, but beens like kidney beans are no good), Rhubard, Nuts or seeds or any kind of meat.

http://www.guineapigcages.com/forum/diet-nutrition/24770-sample-veggie-menus.html

Pellets
Ingredients to avoid:
Animal products
Beet pulp
Corn products (including corn bran, corn germ, corn gluten, ground corn,
Seeds, Nuts, or Oils

Pellets should be Timothy based, rather then alfalfa (which provides calcium for young or pregnant guinea pigs.
Popular, healthy brands include:
Kleenmamas
Oxbow
Sweetmeadows

Guinea pigs need added vitamin C in their diet, and a good pellet should provide that (Don't use vitamin drops in the water. It loses any value after about 15 minutes and can make some pigs not drink)

Hay

Providing unlimited hay provided the necessary fiber for a guinea pigs health, and keeps their ever-growing teeth ground. Alfalfa hay should only be fed to growing or pregnant guinea pigs. Timothy is recommended as the best hay. Again, the same brands I mentioned above for pellets are very good, but and quality hay will do, including bales you can buy locally (If it's available).
Also, my pigs LOVE fresh, green grass. I put them out on the grass almost daily, and also pick grass for in their cage. However only feed your grass if it is free from any kind of pesticide or herbicide, or any other kind of chemical!

[DeeSpark]

Cage and Bedding



Your guinea pigs are likely to spend most of their time in their cage. They can't leave their cage to play and exercise, so they need to do it in the cage. It is important to have a large cage for the health and well being of your pigs. Also, larger cages are actually easier to clean as well, making them more convenient for you.
http://www.guineapigcages.com/index.htm has size charts and info on cages. Home-made cages are better then store bought (which are often to small). Cages should NOT have wire flooring. The cage should have good air circulation (no aqauriums or plastic tubs).
A great type of cage that you can make that is cost effective is a C&C cage.C&C cage info
Basically it is storage cubes connected together as a cage, with choroplast used as a base. They are great because they are easy to change and expand too! Alternative materials can be used, and you can make a different type of cage altogether, just make sure it is both safe, and roomy for your guinea pig.

They should not be housed outside. They aren't suited for the temp. of outside, they are at a high risk of being attacked by predators (including spiders who can get through predator proof cages), and they are social animals, who should be interacting with you throughout the day, not whenever you go outside. You will also notice that you start to get to know them better once they are inside, even if you do spend lots of time outside. And although I will admit that some outdoor cages are very well sheltered and protected, if your guinea pig is inside they are going to be safer and less stressed during storms, flooding, high wind etc. and when bad weather hits, these are the times you are not going to want to be going outside to hang with them, yet it is also the time when they will be most stressed out)

Good Bedding's include:
CareFRESH
Aspen Shavings
Yesterdays news
Fleece

Ok beddings:
Shredded paper (needs to be changed very often)
Kiln dried Pine - Debatable. Should only be used in well ventilated cages. Airing it out is recommended, and something should cover it, such as hay or shredded paper- which is what I do. People claim that their guinea pigs do fine one pine without them doing anything, but because it is debatable it is best to take caution.

Cedar bedding's should be completely avoided

Cleaning your cage

To keep your cage clean, you should try and aim to do a spot clean every day, sweeping or picking up all the poos and unless using fleece, either picking up wet spots of bedding, or some people will pick up the wet bedding and try to air it out until it is dry. Also any fruits and veggies that are not eaten within about an hour will start to go bad, so pick these up to (it is often better to not feed all their veggies to them at once, give them time to get through some of the veggies before feeding the rest).
When you clean your cage depends on what bedding you use, how often your guinea pigs are in the cage and what you classify as needing to be cleaned. It changes with individual people and guinea pigs.
But when you do, you first need to remove guinea pigs, hideys, food bowls etc, and give them some floor time. Then remove all bedding, Spray the cage with a 90% vinegar-10% water solution (the vinegar is an acid so cuts through the urine, which is a base. Vinegar is also safer for your pigs then chemical filled cleaning products), and wipe it down. Let it dry, then put your fresh bedding in and put everything back in, including guinea pigs (once they are finished floor time of corse!)

[DeeSpark]

What your guinea pig needs in it's cage, and outside of it as well

Companions
One of the most important things for a guinea pig, is a companion. They are social animals, and should live in groups. You should atleast have a pair. It's important that they are same sex, or one of the pair is neutered/spayed. You don't want litters upon litters of guinea pigs, and there is enough of those already. Far to many inexperience owners start with one accidental litter, and then the cycle continues as the litter breeds with one another.

Floor time
Floor time is important for guinea pigs. Even in a really good cage, they still want some time OUT of the cage, every day. Floor time can be inside or outside. A pig proof area where they are completly safe, but it's not their cage. It's a nice big space they can run around in and get the stimulation they need. It's very good exercise for them. You can even make floor time by connecting cubes, like a cage.
If they have floor time outside, they should be covered. If you know of any predators in your area, you should watch them. If not, and if they are behind a fence, make sure to check them often, position yourself where you can look out and see them if possible, and make sure to bring them in when you go out. Make sure the outdoor are is sturdy and snake proof, is covered with something to block the sun, and provide them with water.

Hideys
Guinea pigs are prey animals, and need to have places where they can follow their instinct and hide and feel safe. Pipes, Pigloos, Cozies, Wooden hidey houses are just a few great hideys you can use for your guinea pigs

Towel tents and hammocks are a great hit with a lot of pigs. They can be pretty easy to please too.

Chewy
Guinea pigs teeth are always growing, they don't stop, so need to be filed down. Feeding crunchy vegetables, and hay helps with this, but you can also place a block of wood or two in you cage for the pigs to gnaw on.

My guinea pigs favorote 'toys' are: Old cardboard boxes (like cereal boxes), Paper bags (I like to fill them up with grass as well), Pipes, bricks and paving (also good for keeping nail length down and keeping cool in summer) and sheets of news paper (yes, I just drop a few sheets in and they love running under it).

[DeeSpark]

Common Health problems

Vitamin C deficiency
Guinea pigs, like humans cannot synthesis their own vitamin C from other food substances so need a direct source of vitamin C. This should be done mainly with fresh leafy green vegetables, and other veggies high in Vit C, such as bell peppers. A good quality pellet with added vitamin C is required also, but water supplements are not a good idea.

Symptoms include: swollen joints and haemorrhaging (bleeding) into skeletal muscle, the intestines and other tissues. May be anorexic, lethargic, weak; move with difficulty and appear painful when moving. They may also have diarrhoea and a rough coat, among other symptoms

Ulcerative pododermatitis (ulcerated and swollen footpads)
In the wild a guinea pig would most of the time be on the grass. Wire or hard flooring don't provide enough cushioning for guinea pigs feet, causing problems. A lack of cushioning creates pressure sores. These sore cause severe discomfort and in some cases inflammation may spread to the bone tissue of your pigs feet. Your should be sure to have no wire floor, and soft bedding that is easy on your guinea pigs feet.

Mites
Mites are insect like organisms that can infest your guinea pig if not given the right treatment. They can burrow under your pigs skin, cause severe discomfort and even kill.
Symptoms include: Unbearable itchiness for the guinea pig, thinning hair/hair loss, eventually open sores.
The best way to get rid of mites is to use ivermectin http://www.guinealynx.info/ivermectin.html

Dental problems
An inappropriate diet is the cause of bad teeth for guinea pigs, much like us humans. Dental disease causes severe pain and discomfort to the guinea pig and can prevented by feeding q good diet. Guinea pigs have evolved over thousands of years to eat a high fibre diet and in their natural environment wild guinea pigs eat predominantly grass throughout the day. Domesticated guinea pigs should be fed in much the same way. Feeding predominantly grass and/or grass hay and fresh leafy green vegetables will help prevent dental problems, as well as having a wood chew to gnaw on and keep their teeth worn down.


Nail clipping
Unless your guinea pig is living on hard or rough terrain (in my opinion, that would be very cruel) you will need to clip your guinea pigs nails. Rocks and bricks in the cage can help wear them down, but you will still need to clip. Clipping toenails can go wrong because they are small and it is easy to catch the quick. So I will post some links about it here for you to read, they can explain clipping better then I can. What I do personally, is hold my guinea pigs on my lap, and they will usually be fairly still for me but I have to very careful as they do squirm a bit and sometimes jerk away really fast. I personally only clip the very tips of their nails and be very careful, paining close attention and making sure I only have the tip ready to get clamped down with the clippers (I use human toe nail clippers), and also make sure I don't have a bit of another toe nail stuck in the side of the clipper, as I may go right down on the other nails quick.
http://www.guinealynx.info/nails.html
http://exoticpets.about.com/od/guineapigs/a/gpgrooming.htm


Brushing and Bathing
Short haired guinea pigs benefit from being brushed. Most don't mind being brushed, it gets loose hair and dirt out, and is a good opportunity to look at the condition of the skin. Longer haired guinea pigs will need to be brushed more often, every day or two, and can also be trimmed.

Unless your guinea pig has gotten into something, it is unlikely that it will often need baths. Mine have only had one in their lives so far. If you like to bath them though, this is ok, but they really shouldn't be bathed more then once every three months, other wise it isn't good for their skin. You should be able to find a shampoo made for guinea pigs, which you should then gently lather and message into your guinea pigs coat and skin, in luke warm water (Not to cold, not to hot!). After the bath, it is important that your pig is completely dry before letting it back in their cage
This video says to bath short hairs about once a month, and long hairs about one a week. I don't think they should be bathed that often at all, however I think it is a good video on bathing.

[DeeSpark]

Where to get them

At the pet store, Cavies usually cost $7-$15. However, pet stores generally aren't the right place to buy a pig. I know of one which is more like a rescue for guinea pigs, but don't know of any other stores like that. I know somebody who lets her guinea pigs breed in a filthy outdoor hutch, and sells the babies, not caring whether they are healthy or not. I'd rather not support it.

I recommend buying from a proper breeder (not like said person, who just lets the pigs go for it.) who cares about the health of the guinea pig. OR, what I think is an even better idea, recue them! There are so many unwanted guinea pigs, and even though it may take a little while to find the right pigs, it's worth it. To rescue a guinea pig, contact your local shelters and guinea pig rescues.

When you bring the pig/pigs home, I recommend just letting them settle in to their new home for the first day or two. Give them some nice veggies, some pellets, and plenty of hiding places.

If you already have a guinea pig and you have a new one, you must quarantine. Keep the pigs seperated for the first 2-3 weeks, and wash hands before handling different pigs. This is important, incase the new guinea pig has any unknown illnesses or parasites that could pass on. After 2-3 weeks, if the new pig is healthy, you can introduce them.

Introduce the pigs during floor time, in neuteral territory. Provide PLENTY of hiding places, and a big space. Don't force the pigs together, just let them discover eachother on their own and only intervene if a blood bath is happening. If they have some little sqaubles, that's ok. They'll sort it out. Only when they are in danger of injury or worse, should you stop them.

If all goes well, you can put the new pig in the cage, though it would be better to still keep them separated for a few days and let them get to be good friends during floor time first. Give them both some fresh veggies and some pellets (One bowl each, don't want any fighting). You should have a big cage, so they can get away from eachother. And lots of hiding places. I'd say atleast 4 if they've only just met. Watch closely in the following days to make sure they're getting along.

Im In The Airwaves JM

You should add some stuff on companionship:
Males (boars) and females (sows) both need companionship. A lone guinea pig may APPEAR to be happy, but it simply isn't without a same-sex or altered companion. Guinea pigs in the wild are often seen in herds of 5 or more, with one boar 'owning' 4 sows or so. It's a lot like horses, in that two intact males cannot be kept together if a female can be smelled, as one will end up seriously injured, shunned, or killed. If no females are within smelling distance, multiple boars can be kept happily and safely together. If you own 2 intact boars, it's very highly recommended to have a larger cage, 2 food dishes, 2 water bottles, and at least 3 hides. If you own more then 2 boars together, it's best to have 1 water bottle and 1 food dish per boar, with at least 1 hide each and then 2-3 extra available. Though if the boars have been bonded for a long time, this will NOT be a neccesary precaution (though the hides are best with at least one available, male or female).

Owning 2+ sows is NOT an instant acceptance. It took me (Im In The Airwaves JM) over 2 years to succesfully bond a lone sow to a bonded sow pair. Even then, there was still some bullying going on. People think that since sows don't have testosterone, they will automatically accept each other. False. Fighting is just as common in sows as it is in males.

Bonding:
Getting a new guinea pig into a herd can be a long and tedious process. Often, acceptance is NOT immediate, in fact, it could very well take quite a long time. But in other cases, guinea pigs will nuzzle right on up to eachother and start to groom. There is no textbook way to introduce them properly. I will share a few methods that I've had success with. But first, you should know the signs.
Good:
Mounting
Nuzzling or cuddling
Rumblestrutting
Butt sniffing
Chasing
Butt dragging
Teeth chattering: NOT A LOT (sign of dominance, a little is alright)
Nose raising (whose ever nose is higher wins)
Hair on the back of neck or along spine raised

Watch out but don't seperate yet:
Teeth chattering: Lots of it
Nipping (Small tufts of fur may get pulled out)
'Yawn' (actually showing off teeth)
A strong puff or hiss

Seperate IMMEDIATLY:
-Biting attacks (Lunges with intent to harm)
-Combination of raised hackles, teeth chattering, rumblestrutting in place with the head staying in one position while facing the other guinea pig. Usually a signal of a biting attack.
-Both pigs rear up, face to face. Seperate the moment you see that, as a battle is soon to begin.
-Full battle. This is the most serious. The guinea pigs will appear to be a wiggling mass of fur as they bite, scratch, and chew at one another in a full on battle. Remove one with a dustpan or oven mitt, as unintentional bites are quite painful and can cause serious damage.




Couch method:
Get the guinea pigs, and place a towel on the couch. Place them on either side. Watch them very closely, and have an oven mitt or dust pan to seperate if any fighting occurs.

Bath method:
Get guinea pigs in a large bathroom and run some water in a bathtub. Get them wet with lukewarm water (do NOT get any past their shoulders). Apply a small glob of GUINEA PIG (not baby or kitten or whatever) shampoo onto the backs of the guinea pigs, rub it in. Gently rinse by pouring water over their backs with a cup or turning the tap on so it's slightly above a dribble but NOT an intense spray, water should remain lukewarm. Take the pigs out and dry them with a towel, by rubbing them vigorously and keeping them warm. This is a traumatic experience for them, and most pigs will be too concerned to fight, and will usually accept one another as they'll all smell the same.

Room method:
This is the method I used to get my sows together.

Find a large, mostly empty room. Place bath towels all over the floor and block off any possible exits, entrances, or electrical chords with fences, boxes, pillows, or whatever. Place multiple food and water sources throughout the cage, with fresh foods in little dishes throughout the cage. Place guinea pigs in the room. Since the area is so large, most are too concerned with looking around, and there is so much room that if 2 or more are having a disagreement, there is a lot of room to run away. (Note: A large cage is often reccomended if bonded this way).

[DeeSpark]

Bonding

If your guinea pigs are scared of you and run away before you even get to the cage, then don't try taking them out. Just sit by the cage a few hours per day, reading, going on the computer, gaming, or whatever other quiet activity you can do. When you think they are comfortable moving around their cage and not hiding then you can step it up a notch. Start placing your hands in the cage everyday. Spot clean poo, act like you are adjusting water bowls etc. When they are a little more comfortable with that, start hand feeding them. Before you get to this stage you should experiment with different veggies and fruits and see which are their absolute favorites. Choose a time when they haven't had much to eat, then slowly put your hand in the cage, with a piece of the food, and wait. Don't try and move the food towards them, just wait for them to come to you. They may come and sniff it, then run away without taking it, that's ok, it means they are starting to trust you. Just wait for them to take the food. It may take a while, and you might give up, and take the veggie back and have a 15 minute break then do it again. Keep hand feeding them for a few days until they begin to trust you more. Talk to them and let them get used to your presence and voice.

Once they will happily run up and take food from you and eat in front of you, now you can start some physical contact. When your guinea pig is eating, let it notice your hand really close to it, and lightly and softly give it a stroke. It may run off, but keep patting it until it is ok with the contact. Now, most guinea pigs don't like being picked up, but here is how to do it properly: http://www.ehow.com/how_2211314_pick-up-guinea-pigs.html
Once you have picked it up, rest it on your lap and just sit with it, close to the cage at first, and always have veggies for it to munch on. Don't keep it out for more then 15 minutes at a time, and make sure your not wearing anything to good, as you may get peed on. Oh and be careful where you sit. Don't be silly like me and trust your guinea pig to crawl around on the bed for even a second unless you want to wash out pee from your bedding.

Another great method, is wrapping the pig up in a towel. Using this method, you can hold your pig longer because the towel absorbs the pee and holds the poo, but if your going to hold the pig for a while, remember to shake the towel out and make sure it's not to dirty. This also allows your guinea pig, a natural prey animal, to feel more safe, secure and comfortable wrapped up in a towel. As you would when it is on your lap, offer up some nice veggies, and maybe sit back and just watch your favorite tv show for a while.

Once you have gotten to the stage of handling, do it every day at least once, and continue hand feeding, and just hanging out by the cage. Don't take it personally when they are slow to trust or when they still run away from you. This is just them being smart and following their prey instincts.

[DeeSpark]

Should I breed my guinea pigs?
Maybe you want cute little fluffballs that you can raise. Maybe you want to experience the joys of seeing another species reproduce. Maybe you want some easy money.

Should you breed? Well I don't know. Why do you want to breed?
Unless you have the guinea pigs health in mind, you got the parents from a good breeder and they are in good health, and you are an experienced guinea pig owner who knows what age the female can no longer have litters by and have done tonnes of research and have a good reason for breeding, then no, of course you shouldn't breed.

Guinea pigs are a pet kids want. Parents give in, kid gets over the guinea pig after a few months, parents don't want to take responsibility, guinea pig ends up in shelter. That, I think is probably one of the more common reasons they end up in shelters.
Most shelters have at least one guinea pig in them, just waiting for a good home.

Rather then increasing the population of pet guinea pigs, despite the fact that there are already heaps of breeders and plenty homeless guinea pigs, rescue a guinea pig. Guinea pigs in shelters rarely get very good housing or care, but some have to stay in the shelter for months upon months, all because everyone who wants guinea pigs just flocks to the pet store and hands over money for a likely sick pig and support the irresponsible breeding.

It is quite common for females to have difficulty giving birth, and as they grow older their hipbone grow closer together.

So give all your local shelters and guinea pig rescues a visit first, and don't get a female and male together. There is absolutely no need for more guinea pigs right now.

What to do if you end up with a pregnant pig
If you unknowingly buy a pregnant pig, theres a few things you need to do. First, she will need to be seperated from all other pigs and given a nice soft and clean place to give birth. Guinea pig pregnancies usually last about 60-70 days. She will need to be fed alfalfa hay instead of timothy hay for more protein and calcium. It it also thought that the fiber helps prevent hair thinning, common with mother guinea pigs in the late stages of pregnancy. She will also need twice as much vitamin C. If you end up with a pregnant guinea pig, please do your own research as well as visit or ring up a vet for information, the vet may be needed for the birthing process.

Baby guinea pigs will suckle from their mother for about 3 weeks, though withing their first few days they will be able to eat solids as well. Once they reach 3 weeks, you should separate the males and the females, as it will not take long for them to mate, and guinea pigs don't care whether it's their parents or their siblings, they will mate, and it is important that you don't let them.

To find out how to determine the gender of pigs, read this: http://cavyspirit.com/sexing.htm

[DeeSpark]

reserved

[DeeSpark]

This thread isn't quite finished yet, but....

This thread is now open for discussion!

[k ! w !]

You should add that guinea pigs need to be supplemented with vitamin C. this is usually provided through their pellets, but they do enjoy an occasional treat of peeled grapefruit or other citrus fruit. Also, did you mean one cup total of veggies and pellets? Because that's a lot for one guinea pig to eat every day..

[Trash Mammal]

For a suggestion you might add something about what to do in case you buy a pregnant guinea pig and don't know it. Just some basics about the extra care they need.
And I don't believe I saw anything about taking them outside occasionally? Maybe i'm wrong. Perhaps add that too.
<3 Looks great though!

[Kipluck]

I know they can't run on wheels, but what about saucers like they use for chinchillas? It seems like that would be safer on their back.

[Trash Mammal]

Kipluck

I know they can't run on wheels, but what about saucers like they use for chinchillas? It seems like that would be safer on their back.

Just out of curiosity, do you use a saucer for your chinnie? I've heard good things about them. But also heard they were pricey.

Anyhow, I was told/read that even a saucer is bad for a guinea pig. Because it causes strain on them and if they flip off it, they aren't so flexible like a chinnie or a rat would be. =3