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By Miguel Llanos
Reporter
MSNBC
Updated: 4:21 a.m. ET Dec 8, 2006
Sent to Antarctica for a global warming report that will be published in January, MSNBC.com's Miguel Llanos and John Brecher also delivered these daily dispatches about life on the ice.


Miguel Llanos
Reporter

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CHRISTCHURCH, New Zealand — We’ve left “the Ice” — as the locals call Antarctica — but before we head back to the States I wanted to mention some things we didn’t get around to writing about, share some reader experiences and, yes, reflect on our experience.

So I’ll get the last out of the way first: A question that kept popping up in my mind while there was whether we, or anyone, should be on the continent that’s least impacted by humans.

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A part of me, especially when noticing the human infrastructure and even the tourism, said we should leave it alone.

But a bigger part of me is now convinced that some presence is needed. For example, Antarctica is by far the best place on Earth for finding meteorites. And its winter darkness offers a long season for astronomers and their telescopes to learn about the origin of the universe.

It’s not cheap. The National Science Foundation’s U.S. Antarctic Program budget is $330 million a year. But seeking Martian rocks and dark energy from here is a lot cheaper than doing it in space.

More important, at least in my mind, is that what happens in Antarctica is critical to what happens along every coastline of every other continent.

Think about it: Antarctica is larger than the United States, and 98 percent of it is covered in frozen water, some of it 3 miles thick! Melt it all (not likely) and sea levels rise more than 200 feet! Melt even a bit (quite possible in centuries, possibly decades), and you’ve still got 1, 2 or more feet of rising oceans – more than enough to swamp coastal areas like Florida and New Orleans, just to mention some U.S. locations.

It’s proven that the continent has gone through melting periods before (and 65 million years ago it was subtropical!), but scientists are concerned that humans might be accelerating the natural cycle with our fossil fuel emissions.

Oh, yeah, a major melt could also impact marine life and the ocean currents and conveyor belt system that drives weather conditions around the world.

We'll report back in mid-January with more about the ice and global warming. Thanks for reading the dispatches!

• Odds and ends

Airfields on ice. McMurdo has three airfields, all of which are on ice floating on water. Most structures are on sledges for easy moving. Williams Field is the busiest on the continent, as it services the South Pole and construction there. Instead of terminals it has “Willy Town,” a few rows of containers for workers, as well as a food galley and chef. Williams sits on 285 feet of snow and ice, below which is 1,800 feet of water.
Cell phones. Besides the lack of any children on Antarctica, the other obvious “missing link” to civilization is the cell phone. They don’t work out here, so instead pagers are issued to key staff. McMurdo also has a landline phone system, and anyone with a calling card (inexpensive) can dial out. Incoming calls, on the other hand, are restricted to business and emergency use.
ATMs. McMurdo has two, and they’re “no fee” regardless of your bank! One was down the week we were there, but I used the other one just fine — only to see the “out of operation” warning come up afterwards! Sorry…
Jacket jam. Folks often wear NSF-issued red jackets, and mealtime is no exception. Three rooms with hooks offer a place to hang them, but it’s easy to lose your jacket, even with your name on it, among the sea of red. By the way, the heavier red parka costs the NSF about $190 each, and a dozen or so vanish each year – presumably taken by souvenir hunters. Everyone is issued jackets as well as other cold gear valued at $900 — and all of which is supposed to be returned on leaving. The jackets and “bunny boots” — ugly, white rubber boots valued at $136 — were our favorites in the coldest weather.
R&R perks. Videos, musical instruments, skis, snowboards, bikes, other rec gear and even party costumes can be borrowed — for free.
Freezer architecture. Given the need for tight insulation, most structures have freezer doors — and the types represent the technological evolution of six decades.
Winter season. While the summer season is the busiest, with up to 1,400 at McMurdo and South Pole (not to mention smaller bases run by the U.S. and others), there is a winter season. During the coming winter McMurdo will house around 150, and the South Pole around three dozen or four dozen.
Ice mirages. You might have heard that Antarctica is actually a desert — well, it also has mirages! We first noticed when driving on an open ice shelf and saw mountains in the distance with their base somewhat disjointed.
• Readers’ recollections
Finally, a few words from some of our readers. No rants or raves here (we got plenty, but I’m sure folks can divine what they’d sound like!). Instead click on this link for some observations as well as personal experiences of others who have spent time on "the Ice."





 
 
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