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""\"\\\"Vintage Sewing Machines The Complete Guide\\\\nThe machine that often gets thebulk of the attention in the raw denim world is the Union Special 43200G chainstitch hemmer (see Self Edges above). We wanted to take a deeper look at some of the equally important vintage machines that are still hard at work making jeans today.\\\\n\\\\nMohsin Sajid,the creative director behind the UKs Endrimedenim brand and a confessed sewing machine enthusiast, was kind enough to guide us through the wonderful world of Singers, Reeces, and Union Specials. Read on for an up close look through vintage machines you need to start your own denim operation.\\\\n\\\\n\\\\n\\\\nMost denim designers all end up the sameobsessed and in love with sewing machines. The love affair with machines started for me five years ago when I decided to start sewing again after a ten-year hiatus.\\\\n\\\\nMost trained designers can sew, we are taught pattern cutting, draping and tailoring. After ten years working as a designer for some of the worlds best denim companies, I decided when it came to my own brand, Endrime, I would buy the best machines I could (after doing some research), and take my time hunting them down slowly. We list the sewing machines used on pocket bags of every Endrime jean, something we were the first to do with 100% transparency.\\\\n\\\\n\\\\n\\\\nMost denim heads like me, tend to hunt down the older machines. This is mainly because they make beautiful stitches or imperfections when they sew. There is always a nice story with old machines, and they look way better than their modern counter parts. Yes, they are difficult to maintain and some parts no longer exist but generally they are better as they are products of a time when everything was generally made better.\\\\n\\\\nThat said, if I had a studio full of modern machines I would most likely not get the same type of attention, so it certainly helps collecting older machines. Its something that goes hand in hand with learning about vintage garments you need to understand the machines that made them if you want your own garments to look as good.\\\\n\\\\nDenim designers working on these old machines (Roy Slaper, Ohios Zace USA, Ben Viapiana from Bangkok, or our buddy Navid Dastanai to name a few) tend to become experts in fixing and repairing machines themselves. Ive had to teach myself how each machine behaves and the parts that make it run so I know how to fix the problem when something goes wrong.\\\\n\\\\n\\\\n\\\\nWhen you talk with any denim head, see any article or read any thing about vintage machines most are only interested in the Union Special43200G. The chain stitch hemming machine but there are many more machines which are just as important, especially if you want to make denim from the golden 50s era.\\\\n\\\\nIf you are thinking about opening a denim studio then this list should get you on the correct path, especially if youre thinking about making jeans the 1950s way. Im sure my fellow denim connoisseurs will add \\\\\\\/ comment to this as there are for sure plenty I have missed!\\\\nHemming Machine UNION SPECIAL 43200G\\\\nVintage chain stitch hemming machine from 1939 this is the machine every denim head wants. On average, these sell on eBay for $3,000 $5,000.\\\\n\\\\n\\\\n\\\\nWhat makes this machine special is the roping effect, which is caused by a fault in the machine and its turner. There are three generations of the 43200G and they all have this fault. The first gen versions were black, like most machines in 1939 early 1940s period.\\\\n\\\\nUnion Special stopped manufactured these machines in 1989, making them an instant collectors item. To many, a jean without a chain stitch hem is not a jean and it has to be sewn with the right machine with the roping effect.\\\\n\\\\nSince the resurgence of purest denim from the mid 1990s onwards, the hunt of the 43200G has been on the top of lists for every denim shop, and tailor shops. The Japanese market, however, was 5-10 years ahead and cleaned up before anyone else started caring.\\\\n\\\\n\\\\n\\\\nThis is why is why theres a lust for Union specials. For me, they were the standard from the past, plus they look amazing. Some of the purest brands from Japanlike Kapital, 45rpm, Big John, and Momotarostill use the 43200G. At Endrime, we only use this machine to hem all our jeans and chinos.\\\\n\\\\nMoving with consumer trends, many companies modernized their machines in the 1980s so most of the 43200Gs ended up again in China, Japan, and Pakistan etc. Since most denim was now open end, the trend leaned towards fast, cheap, and lower quality denim. Mostchain stitched hems unraveled quickly when broken, so most garment manufactures switched to lockstitch machines like the Union Special 63900 instead, and did not reorder chain stitched hemming machines.\\\\nFun Fact 1 Most denim shops and designers use a cheaper Union Special43200F (which was originally used for side seams) and add the folder on this machine to claim its a 43200G.Fun Fact 2 Before the 43200G, there was another machine called Union Special11500G dating from well before 1921. These are super rare and Ive only seen two working models: at Rising Sun and Samurai Jeans in Japan.\\\\n\\\\nDarning Machine SINGER 47W70\\\\nVintage darning machine for repairing and reweaving denim. This is one of holy grail machines for darning and repair and on average sell on eBay for $500 $1000.\\\\n\\\\n\\\\n\\\\nI have asecond generation machine of this machine (as its not black), but Singer started making them in 1914. This machine has no feed dogs, so the user can control the length of each stitch, the speed with the foot pedal, and use hand motion for the direction.\\\\n\\\\n\\\\n\\\\nWith a combination of thin thread colours and following the grain line and slub pattern of wear marks, skilled users can blend the repair so it does not even look as if its been mended. Its an art form in its own right; you can even repair without patching your work from behind.\\\\n\\\\nAndrew Chenwas a big part of repopularizing this machine, butundoubtedly, one of the best at using it isRain Delislefrom Self Edge San Franciscos Darn-it Repair Shop. Her skills are some of the best examples of darning on a 47W70in the world.\\\\n\\\\n\\\\nCHAIN STITCH EMBROIDERY\\\\\\\/ CORNELY MACHINE Singer 114W103\\\\nMade even more famous by Roy Slaper is the marvelous Singer 114W103vintage single needle chain stitch \\\\\\\/ Cornely machine. On average, these sell on eBay for $1.000 $1500.\\\\n\\\\n\\\\n\\\\nThe Singer 114W103 isthe first chainstitch machine Singer made, starting around 1911. It was first used in a treadle table and often called a Cornely Type, modeled after Cornely of Frances design that went into production in 1865.\\\\n\\\\n\\\\n\\\\nThese single needle chain-stitch machines were used to stitch names onto garments, workshirts, handkerchiefs, etc. Now most embroideries are done on toko mesin jahit Butterfly dibekasi modern computerized machines, but theres something quite amazing using the freehand crank below the machine, while directing your embroidery above and controlling the speed with your feet.\\\\n\\\\n\\\\nBUTTON HOLE MACHINE Reece 101 KEYHOLE\\\\nThis chainstitch button hole machine is one of the most respected, best-known models. These monsters have beenthe standard for keyhole chainstitch button holes for ages and recognised throughout the industry as probably the best keyhole machine ever made.\\\\n\\\\n\\\\n\\\\nThe Reece 101 is famous as it allows the work to remain stationary while the head travels around the buttonhole. This guarantees that the garment does not move during the sewing cycle. The only Hand Hole model in the world as Reece would say it.\\\\n\\\\n\\\\n\\\\nIts also one of the first machines capable of sewingan imitation hand-stitch buttonhole with a top gimp attachment. The hand hole is, without a doubt one of the best buttonholes you will see anywhere and it gives the appearance of a hand sewn buttonhole.\\\\n\\\\nGetting a hold of one is fairly easy. There are many on eBay plus many online sellers, mainly because so many of these bad boys have been made. Just like the Union Special 43200Gs, most of the Reece 101s found theirway to China during themid 80s.\\\\n\\\\nOf course spending upwards of 3,000 10,000 is a big commitment for anyone. Luckily, there are many sewing specialist companies reconditioning and rebuilding these monsters specialist jobs wherebythe machines are stripped down, reconditioned or rebuilt, repainted, reassembled & tested by experienced specialist Reece trained engineers crazy!\\\\n\\\\nSimilar to the Reece 101, but even rarer, is theSinger 99W110. It predates the Reece, also produces a keyhole stitched buttonhole, and is one of the rarest vintage sewing machines.\\\\n\\\\n\\\\n\\\\n\\\\nTWIN NEEDLE FLAT LOCK UNION SPECIAL 11900\\\\n\\\\n\\\\nThe Union Special 11900 is a twin needle machine that can be used for a range of jobs. The flat lock stitch could be used for belt loops, yokes, seamspractically anything. Plus it looks super cool!\\\\n\\\\n\\\\n\\\\n\\\\n1\\\\\\\/8 TWIN NEEDLE MACHINE SINGER 112-140\\\\n\\\\n\\\\nTwin needle machines are not that rare, 1\\\\\\\/4 or 5\\\\\\\/16 are quite common, although you hardly eversee a 1\\\\\\\/8 twin or 3\\\\\\\/16 twin needle machine. This Singer is a rare one, which is a monster with a double bobbin holder and a 1\\\\\\\/8 spacing between the needles. Superb.\\\\n\\\\n\\\\nBAR TACK MACHINE SINGER 69-8 SERIES\\\\n\\\\n\\\\nThere are many types of bar tack machines, but none as sought after like the Singer 69-8, 28-stitch 1\\\\\\\/8 1\\\\\\\/4 bar tack.These machines are very desirable, especially as the stitch it creates often has slight imperfections. Modern bar tack machines are just too refined.\\\\nBELT LOOP MACHINE UNION SPECIAL 7400\\\\nThere are many ways to make belt loops. As a result of how many differenttypes of machines can be used in combination with folders \\\\\\\/ turner, the options are endless. However, one of the more popular ways is to use a twin needle machine, particularly theUnion Special7400.\\\\n\\\\n\\\\nBELT LOOP MACHINE UNION SPECIAL 6900\\\\n\\\\n\\\\nBut even rarer is the Union Special 6900. This machine cuts and turns the fabric and Ive only seen one person have this machine Roy Slaper. The distance between needles is 3\\\\\\\/16.\\\\n\\\\n\\\\nOverlockers\\\\nAt Endrime,we dont use overlockers in any of our denim or woven production, but there are some very important machines which might be worth picking up if you come across them.\\\\n\\\\nThe Union Special 15400 is one of the earliest examples of overlocker \\\\\\\/ serger machine. Its a beauty.\\\\n\\\\n\\\\n\\\\nComing up a close secondis the Union Special 39200F Over Locker.\\\\n\\\\n\\\\n\\\\nTo the untrained eye this machine is often confused with the 43200G. But its a great machine, especially if you find it complete like above.\\\\nWaistband Machines\\\\nWhen the golden age of denim was in full swing, waistband machines ran the show and come inmany different makes and models. Most, if not all, are chain stitch often with 1, 2, 4, 9 needles so you can chop and change if you want twin needle on the bottom of waistband, or a new combination of your choosing.\\\\n\\\\nFirst on the block would be theUnion Special51700.\\\\n\\\\n\\\\n\\\\nThis is one of the oldest chain stitch waistband machines many generations of the famous model are in the market place but this black version is one of the hardest to find.\\\\n\\\\nNext would be the more common: Union Special51800,\\\\n\\\\n\\\\n\\\\nThis is the version you mostly see in many factories. Theres no mistake, its stunning if its used correctly like below.\\\\n\\\\n\\\\n\\\\n\\\\n\\\\nA close second to the Union Special 51800 would be the Singer302W406.\\\\n\\\\n\\\\nFelling Machines\\\\nThe last set of machines in any complete set up would have to befelling machines.\\\\n\\\\nIts important to note that before the invention of the felling machine, most tailors would fell with a single needle machine. Examples can still be found within Endrime and other brands, such asWarehouse,Hellers Caf and even modern 31. Its best to start with the rarest model first.\\\\nUNION SPECIAL 35700 FELLING MACHINE 3\\\\\\\/16s TWIN NEEDLE\\\\n\\\\n\\\\nThe 35700 is important, as you hardly never see 3\\\\\\\/16 twin stitches any more let alone a felling machine!\\\\n\\\\nThe modern day version, which you can find everywhere with no trouble would be the Union Special 35800.\\\\nUNION SPECIAL 35800 FELLING MACHINE 5\\\\\\\/16s TWIN NEEDLE\\\\n\\\\nFinal Thoughts\\\\nI have not listed the basic lockstitch machine as I believe you should buy a modern one like the Juki DDL-5600NL. Without a doubt, these can handle heavier denim, upwards of 30oz.\\\\n\\\\nAlso, on most machines you can also adjust the stitch per inch so its smaller. Most vintage brands 1920s used upwards to 12-16 SPI, so keep that in mind if youre going for as much authenticity as possible.\\\\n\\\\n\\\\n


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