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| Brocade for Qiloli and Waloli |
| Yes |
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30% |
[ 3 ] |
| No |
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10% |
[ 1 ] |
| Obligatory Poll-Loli Option |
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60% |
[ 6 ] |
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| Total Votes : 10 |
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Posted: Thu Jul 31, 2008 7:28 pm
[if I get enough facts posted here I'll make a pretty little guide.]
Broadcloth, as stated in another thread, is the most common thing used for a Lolita dress. What about other fabrics? What are some general fabrics that work?
I've made a One-Piece out of very pretty Calico and my mother says that you can make anything out of Calico, it's just slightly thin. The OP came out fine in my opinion, but do you think that's suitable?
Also, she suggested that sateen seemed to be a very commonly used fabric judging by the photos in Gosurori (don't doubt her, she's a hobby seamstress!). I believe I have about ten yards of sateen, so if it's not good for a One-piece say so now before I make something composed of FAIL.
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Posted: Fri Aug 01, 2008 8:48 am
Cotton anything should work so long as it's not home decor fabric, really. .:shrug:.
Broadcloth is iffy, because a lot of times commercial broadcloth's got a high polyester count. It's better to use broadcloth for linings and find a less-shiny fabric for the actual garment. Kona's brand of broadcloth is 100% cotton, however, and works well for solid colors if you don't want any texture to things.
Cotton sateen is nice, some quilting fabrics even work well, and things like seersucker, cotton eyelet, or poplin all work very well. Some other options you can experiment with are cotton fabrics with toile prints [usually in quilting areas] or plisse weaves [often in fashion fabric areas]. Hell, even light twills and corduroy can work if you find the right ones.
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Posted: Fri Aug 01, 2008 9:13 am
Now THAT is a useful post. o-o''
Thank you! So nearly-100% cotton for everything Lolita, am I correct? From lace to fabric it seems.
Random question: Rouching(sp?) and shirring, any difference?
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Posted: Fri Aug 01, 2008 9:28 am
`MaliceMizer Now THAT is a useful post. o-o''
Thank you! So nearly-100% cotton for everything Lolita, am I correct? From lace to fabric it seems.
Random question: Rouching(sp?) and shirring, any difference? -C'est la lune qui conduit la danse...-
Yeah. It's a bit expensive though, if you don't know where to look for your things.
LOL I tried finding the definition for "rouching" and I got a very hilarious definition from urbandictionary.com.
If you're talking about like... using elastic waist and stuff, then yeah, there's a difference between that and shirring.
-...quand le soleil sera couché dans ton âme froide.-
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Posted: Fri Aug 01, 2008 9:58 am
Rouching and shirring aren't that different in technique, but they are used to create different effects. Generally, rouching on garments is a vertical element and done to create a sort of "scallop" shape on a hem, to gather a neckline down into the bodice [usually done with camisols or jersey knit tops in mainstream fashion], or to make light crinkles. There usually isn't more than one or two lines and they're often far apart.
Shirring is usually horizontal [and rarely vertical] and serves as faux smocking. It's both a decorative element and a tailoring element, unlike rouching. Rows of shirring are usually spaced no more than an inch or so apart and create a tight pattern rather than the light "folds" and gathers that rouching tends to cause. The elastic used in shirring also ensures that the garment will fit you snugly with a minimal amount of specifically tailored elements.
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Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 12:02 pm
...Damn, spuntino, you know your stuff. D:
My mother called shirring rouching, so... Thank you for clearing that up for me. I think I'll turn this into a guide when I get home (I'm on vacation in Virgina - I got 9 minutes left on the computer! XD )
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Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2008 6:44 pm
What about a petticoat? What do we make those out of? Like, netting and bridal things?
What, specifically, would be a good fabric for the many layers of a petti?
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Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2008 11:42 pm
You can do it a couple of ways. The easiest is to buy a stiff netting or tulle. You make a slip skirt out of broadcloth to protect your legs, and make a gathered waist skirt out of tulle or netting to make the petticoat.
You can also use organdy, organza or even [for a lighter, less explosive petticoat] cotton or poly-cotton broadcloth.
I have two that I've made and two that I've bought. One of the petticoats I've made is a broadcloth skirt with two layers and knife-pleats on the hem to give my skirts a bit of extra shape for casual days. Another is made of a fine tulle in three tiers. The top tier is shortest, then the middle, then the last. It gives my skirts a nice shape, but it's itchy as hell even with its slip. I always have to wear bloomers.
My two manufactured petticoats are each different. One is a synthetic organza [similar to organdy, but nylon instead of cotton] petticoat. The other is a two-layer nylon and netting petticoat. The netting petticoat is amazing for my heavier skirts [Meta winter wear] and the other is great for just all around wear since I can make it super poofy by gathering up the top tier or more appropriate for my princess-line skirt by leaving them both loose.
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Posted: Sat Aug 09, 2008 7:39 am
What makes a princess-line petticoat unique from any other petti?
My grandmother tried to explain but failed because of how I don't comprehend.
So to make a petticoat, we use a non-netting/tulle fabric on the undermost layer, like a slip. Then we stack our gathered netting/tulle of choice in how many layers we want, followed by another layer of non-netting/tulle fabric? All held together with elastic. Am I correct?
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Posted: Sat Aug 09, 2008 10:27 am
That is exactly correct! ITS does theirs that way. You can also leave off the outer fabric if you want to, especially if you do the tiers method I described.
And a princess-line petticoat is closer to a square dancing petticoat than most lolita petticoats. The fluff comes at the bottom rather than through out, which is the idea for a lolita petticoat to get the cupcake shape. It gives the hems on princess seams a nicer flare.
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Posted: Sat Aug 09, 2008 9:32 pm
How does the construction of a princess-line petticoat differ from that of a standard petticoat?
Also, is a princess-line the same as an A-line? Is that even a real thing?
...Am I annoying you with my questions?
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Posted: Sun Aug 10, 2008 9:15 am
You are not annoying me with your questions, no. XD
A princess line and an A-line are very similar, actually [technically, I think the princess line is a type of A-line]. The shape is more or less the same, the difference is that A-lines usually have a seam at the waist and princess lines usually have none. They're fitted to the body throughout rather than just at the waist with a separate bodice. For skirts, either term can be used but ordinarily you'll see "princess line" applied to a high waist skirt. In the case of lolita, the skirts are much fuller than just an ordinary A-line as well.
As for the petticoat construction, I couldn't tell you first hand, to be honest. Looking at photos, they're a bit narrower at the top and usually done in tiers that attach to one another rather than in tiers all gathered at the waist. Most of the volume as at the hem rather than throughout. The best way to find out is probably to look at patterns for this one, but I can dig up some photos for you if you'd like?
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Posted: Sun Aug 10, 2008 8:51 pm
None of that made sense for me.
Do you finish the edges of the netting/tulle for the petticoat? How many layers typically would a petti have?
Also, is gathering the key to the fluff and poof? Or is it the layers? I think it should layers because gathering would make you have a bumpy hip/waist.
(I wish I could speed-dial you lol.)
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Posted: Sun Aug 10, 2008 10:43 pm
The fluff is a combination of gathering and layers, actually. Most petticoats are two gathered layers of tulle that support one another for the bell shape, and also have an elastic waist which increases the gathered effect immensely. As long as you wear it in the proper position, it won't make you look lumpy. (:
As for a classical petticoat, I'm trying to think of the best way to elaborate. So. I'll just go step by step.
For a regular, bell-shaped petticoat, you take rectangles of tulle/netting/etc. and sew the ends together so that you have several tube shapes. They can all be the same length, or graduated in tiers with the shortest one on top. You then place them one inside the other, sew them together along one edge and gather. You then attach that to a waistband or a slip and waist band, and gather it up with elastic.
The result looks like what you get from ITS.
For a princess-line petticoat as used by classical brands, it's a bit different. You have to make the petticoat in tiers. The first tier is only a bit larger than your waist, usually enough to get it over your hips. The second tier, gathered and sewn to the bottom of the first, is slightly longer. The last tier is the fullest and gives the hem it's fluff. This can be done in several layers, just like any other petticoat, and looks like this one here:
http://www.victorianmaiden.com/shopping/bottom/apanie.html
Other brands use this same method, but with more gathering at the waist, to produce petticoats as well. Here's an example of Baby's:
http://www.babyssb.co.jp/shopping/skirt/132509.html
Does that help? (:
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Posted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 8:42 am
Yes! This is less about fabrics and more about a Q&A for Spuntino. -renames the thread- About skirt length... It MUST be on or directly above the knee, correct? An inch or more above the knee would be considered vulgar and NOT Lolita, correct? Because I'm working on the pattern for a JSK that is about two, three inches above the knee. It's much longer than today's skirts, but not as long as a traditional Lolita skirt. So should I lengthen the garment to be proper length... or is it fine? For reference, here's what I'm making. [ side] [ front - rightmost] EDIT: Also! I keep forgetting to ask this. It's known that shiny fabrics for Lolita is a big no-no, but what about for waloli and qiloli? Can I use brocade for that? Because I bought a LOT of brocade before thinking about the shiny-factor... Is it usable? EDIT EDIT: Also, what about lining a garment? Must it be done for the total Lolita-quality? What purpose does it serve? Would a garment's outer appearance somehow change because of a lining? What materials are best for lining a Lolita dress?
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