|
|
|
|
Posted: Thu Nov 03, 2011 5:38 pm
A lot of reptile lovers like Leopard Geckos because they're relatively easy to care for. But there are still a lot of things that you need to know about them to ensure you won't be clueless if something unexpected happens. So here's my quick guide to properly taking care of a leopard gecko.

|
 |
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Thu Nov 03, 2011 5:39 pm
To start out, you need the basics. A suitable terrarium for one adult gecko is suggested at 15 gallons. But please by all means you can never give a pet too much space. The next thing you'll need is substrate. You can use sand, lizard carpet, paper towels, ect. You might not notice for a while because they're nocturnal but they like things to climb on like a big rock or a log. Sand impaction is a big consideration. If you feed your gecko in the sand or don't provide any calcium into it's diet it might eat sand. And when a gecko eats sand impaction can occur and it's deadly. So called calcium sand is still not safe so paper towels or lizard carpet is a good idea if you want to prevent this.
|
 |
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Thu Nov 03, 2011 5:41 pm
Humidity
One of the biggest issues for caring for a gecko that owners are constantly running into is how to help your gecko remove their extra shed skin. But if you provide them with the right amount of humidity you usually don't need to lift a finger. Some controversial topics will say to put them in a container of water or rub them with wet Q-tips or pull them off. But what you really need is this. BAM!
 Coconut fiber. Put it in a small box for your gecko and absorb it with water once a day. Your gecko will love it. Put it on the warm side of the tank to increase the humidity rate. Put another hide on the cool side.
|
 |
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Thu Nov 03, 2011 5:42 pm
Food
Large crickets, meal worms, super worms. Bugs, basically. You can dust them with calcium and multivitamin powders. Do NOT put it's food in sand. If you have sand in it's cage either place it's food in it's humidity box or on something flat and clean. And if you don't dust the food at all then forget about using any sand in the cage because geckos eat sand when they don't have enough calcium. Sand impaction is deadly. You can supposedly feed them with the food they provide at the store but more than half of them would die before I could feed them to the gecko. A piece of lettuce is pretty useful as food and water that doesn't drown them. And don't even try to give them water to drink. I've seen a super worm drown on a damp piece of paper towel. stare I don't think I need to remind anyone but just in case, geckos do need water and you need to have a shallow dish to drink out of. If you keep crickets in the cage to hunt leave a sponge in the dish so the dumb things won't drown.
|
 |
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Thu Nov 03, 2011 7:24 pm
Heating
There are only 2 forms of heat that should be used. A heating pad can be placed under one side of the tank. If the substrate is too thick and the heat can't pass through it take some out until the area your gecko walks on is warm. The overall heat of the terrarium should be between 88 and 95 degrees. A heating lamp can be used as well. A lot of people say there is no need whatsoever for a gecko to have an overhead heat source. That may be what a lot of people can get away with but in my particular occasion mine won't eat without her heat lamp helping to keep her warm. If you run into the same problem with yours try a heat lamp. Don't use heat rocks because they can cause burns.
|
 |
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Fri Nov 04, 2011 8:57 am
So to recap. All the items you need before you buy a gecko is:
Minimum 15g Terrarium Heating Pad Substrate At least 2 Hide Boxes Coconut Fiber Water Dish Heat Lamp [Maybe] Calcium & Multivitamin Powder Something to Keep Live Food In Thermometer/Hydrometer
|
 |
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Fri Nov 04, 2011 9:01 am
Dropped Tails
Due to a recent event I've been forced to learn how to handle a gecko with a recently dropped tail. There are several reason a gecko could drop it's tail. But it usually happens when the gecko is being handled too roughly by it's owner or another animal. The sight can be quite disturbing but luckily this survival mechanism has it's ways to make sure it looks worse than it is. The blood vessels constrict and close off to prevent major blood loss. But an open wound is an open wound no matter how it happened. In the next post are some tips to keep the wound from possible infection.
|
 |
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Fri Nov 04, 2011 9:02 am
 First of all, run a warm little bath for the gecko and use Qtips to remove any dirt or sand off the wound. Obviously you need to be careful. The gecko is probably already going to be stressed and sore but this is necessary. You can take another Qtip and apply some type of antibacterial cream like Neosporin to the wound. Now that you've done what you can to the wound focus on the terrarium. Everything is going to need to be cleaned. Remove all the substrates and replace with paper towels so the wound won't get dirty again. Clean all the hides with hot water and leave the gecko alone for a while to destress. Geckos keep a lot of their fat stores in their tail so you will need to increase the fatty foods and protein in it's diet. Don't be surprised if it's movements are slow and unmotivated for a while.
Usually tail loss is not a serious injury especially if you take the right precautions. But look for signs of infection like leaking puss. If the wound doesn't heal consult a herpetologist immediately for care.

|
 |
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Fri Nov 04, 2011 9:03 am
Feel free to comment or ask questions. Just don't be rude if you disagree with anything please.
|
 |
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2012 5:01 am
i would recomend 3 hides, not just 2. you should have a warm hide, a cool hide, and the humid hide. that way your gecko will never have to sacrifice a good body temp for security. thats the reason that i dont recomend anything smaller than a 20gal for an adult though, anything smaller and there isnt much room for all the stuff they need
ive tried all sorts of substrates with ethen, but so far tile is my favorite by far. its so easy to clean and much better for their joints than sand in the long run. not to mention its probably as close to a leo's natural habitat as im going to get as long as i just buy everything instead of making it
|
 |
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2012 10:52 am
 You should provide specific temperatures, like how warm is the tank suppose to be, and how humid should it be, ect. 
|
 |
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:29 pm
I can't get on any search sites. Do it for me. emotion_donotwant
|
 |
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Wed Jan 18, 2012 6:18 am
A-B0T I can't get on any search sites. Do it for me. emotion_donotwant
between 88 and 95 seem to be good temps for leos. humidity doesnt really matter since your leo should have a humid hide at all times anyways
|
 |
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Wed Jan 18, 2012 8:37 am
Shanna66 A-B0T I can't get on any search sites. Do it for me. emotion_donotwant
between 88 and 95 seem to be good temps for leos. humidity doesnt really matter since your leo should have a humid hide at all times anyways kkk
|
 |
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
 |
|