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Posted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 2:52 pm
DarkElf27 Shemagh teaser for my Tallarn, first complete prototype head using the Mad Robot Miniatures bald heads as a base.  Interesting, now paint! emotion_yatta
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Posted: Mon Mar 18, 2013 11:01 am
Vikki Keeler Interesting, now paint! emotion_yatta All in due time. I'm sculpting 7 heads, and then I'm going to make molds of the sculpts so I can recreate them for the masses of guardsmen needed for a full army.
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Posted: Mon Mar 18, 2013 11:22 am
DarkElf27 Vikki Keeler Interesting, now paint! emotion_yatta All in due time. I'm sculpting 7 heads, and then I'm going to make molds of the sculpts so I can recreate them for the masses of guardsmen needed for a full army. Pics of your operation or it didnt happen. wink
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Posted: Mon Mar 18, 2013 1:51 pm
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Posted: Mon Mar 18, 2013 3:21 pm
Vikki Keeler DarkElf27 Vikki Keeler Interesting, now paint! emotion_yatta All in due time. I'm sculpting 7 heads, and then I'm going to make molds of the sculpts so I can recreate them for the masses of guardsmen needed for a full army. Pics of your operation or it didnt happen. wink Sent. And I decided I'm not going to make molds of this batch, because the band plus the emblem is too thick; next time, I'll apply the emblem first and then sculpt the band around it.
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Posted: Mon Mar 18, 2013 3:26 pm
That shrine bit looks like it causes a lot of drag. xp Has this been implemented already? Transplanting the front of another speeder sounds like quite an undertaking.
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Posted: Mon Mar 18, 2013 3:40 pm
DarkElf27 That shrine bit looks like it causes a lot of drag. xp Has this been implemented already? Transplanting the front of another speeder sounds like quite an undertaking. I think it´s suppose to go all calmly while it´s faster variants would swoop out from the darkness it creates. :p And no, it´ll take a few days, maybeh a week before I´ll get the parts. That it may be, but atleast it´s much more simplier route then say trying to create something from green-stuff and fail miserably. sweatdrop
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Posted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 12:57 am
Asmondai DarkElf27 That shrine bit looks like it causes a lot of drag. xp Has this been implemented already? Transplanting the front of another speeder sounds like quite an undertaking. I think it´s suppose to go all calmly while it´s faster variants would swoop out from the darkness it creates. :p And no, it´ll take a few days, maybeh a week before I´ll get the parts. That it may be, but atleast it´s much more simplier route then say trying to create something from green-stuff and fail miserably. sweatdrop I expect pics when it's happening. You've had my interest before but now you have my full attention. wink
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Posted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 8:51 am
Lady Blodwynn I expect pics when it's happening. You've had my interest before but now you have my full attention. wink Yes M´am!  Also, Terminator Command Squad. mrgreen
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Posted: Wed Mar 20, 2013 12:55 am
Asmondai Lady Blodwynn I expect pics when it's happening. You've had my interest before but now you have my full attention. wink Yes M´am!  Also, Terminator Command Squad. mrgreen Excellent. Now paint! whee
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Posted: Sat Mar 23, 2013 10:38 am
Okay, for all those who recommend milliput over greenstuff, is there a trick to using the stuff? I'm trying it out, and it's very crumbly, sticks to the tool, and melts if I try to dampen my tools and hands so that it doesn't stick. Help!
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Posted: Sat Mar 23, 2013 3:42 pm
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Posted: Sat Mar 23, 2013 3:44 pm
DarkElf27 Okay, for all those who recommend milliput over greenstuff, is there a trick to using the stuff? I'm trying it out, and it's very crumbly, sticks to the tool, and melts if I try to dampen my tools and hands so that it doesn't stick. Help! Patience, vaseline and care as you use your tool. I'd never recommend it for any normal capacity, but it's great for filling & base-work. Treat it like clay in some way. Thatch across the surfaces you need to join with a sharp knife if need be, but carefully, not excessively. Stick those bits down a bit with pressure, smooth down edges if needs be. Once it's attached like that, it should have a good enough grip for the lubed up tool to rub across without tearing anything up. Erm...
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Posted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 3:18 pm
Messyart DarkElf27 Okay, for all those who recommend milliput over greenstuff, is there a trick to using the stuff? I'm trying it out, and it's very crumbly, sticks to the tool, and melts if I try to dampen my tools and hands so that it doesn't stick. Help! Patience, vaseline and care as you use your tool. I'd never recommend it for any normal capacity, but it's great for filling & base-work. Treat it like clay in some way. Thatch across the surfaces you need to join with a sharp knife if need be, but carefully, not excessively. Stick those bits down a bit with pressure, smooth down edges if needs be. Once it's attached like that, it should have a good enough grip for the lubed up tool to rub across without tearing anything up. Erm... I've heard worse. xp So you wouldn't recommend it for detailed conversions, but instead as a filler or for larger stuff?
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Posted: Wed Mar 27, 2013 4:41 pm
DarkElf27 Messyart DarkElf27 Okay, for all those who recommend milliput over greenstuff, is there a trick to using the stuff? I'm trying it out, and it's very crumbly, sticks to the tool, and melts if I try to dampen my tools and hands so that it doesn't stick. Help! Patience, vaseline and care as you use your tool. I'd never recommend it for any normal capacity, but it's great for filling & base-work. Treat it like clay in some way. Thatch across the surfaces you need to join with a sharp knife if need be, but carefully, not excessively. Stick those bits down a bit with pressure, smooth down edges if needs be. Once it's attached like that, it should have a good enough grip for the lubed up tool to rub across without tearing anything up. Erm... I've heard worse. xp So you wouldn't recommend it for detailed conversions, but instead as a filler or for larger stuff? I personally have always struggled to get fine detail into it. It's always been too.... Cracky. It falls apart in my hands and takes a lot of extra smoothing to fix. Bulking and terrain, it's good for. Basic shapes etc. Filling. A mate of mine uses it whenever he wants to make dungeon terrain pieces, but he won't use it for much more than just filling out spaces and making stonework. I prefer GS in every way to milliput due to the ease of getting fine detail into it (Ok, it ca be a pain in the arse because of the stretchy softness, but at least it never falls apart on me!) Though lately, Super Sculpey has been... Just beautiful. For.. You know, full on figure sculpts. Definitely useless for conversions. Since it needs boiling..
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