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 Posted: Wed Apr 05, 2006 9:30 am
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Posted: Wed Apr 05, 2006 9:42 am
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Posted: Wed Apr 05, 2006 10:04 am
FORM THIS POST ON ALL PATTERNS WILL BE FOR KID SIZES
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Posted: Wed Apr 05, 2006 10:06 am
Simple Vest
THIS IS A CROCHET PATTERN
This vest is a child's size 5
Materials:
Size G hook, worsted weight yarn
2 conches
1 pack of leather shoe laces
2 pony beads
Note: Instructions for making this vest in your own size are at the bottom.
I made this vest using double crochet stitches. Using the guidelines at the bottom, I'm sure you can make it with other stitches, like single crochet, or clusters, etc. You could alternate rows, too, like
one double crochet row, one single crochet row.
Front Right
Row 1- Chain 29. (right side) Double crochet in second (not 3rd) chain from hook, and in each chain stitch. The 2 chains you skipped count as the first double crochet. 28 double crochets.
Row 2-13- Chain 2, turn, (Counts as 1st double crochet, now and throughout). Turn. Double crochet in each double crochet.
Row 14- Chain 1, turn, single crochet in first 4 stitches, half double crochet in next stitch, double crochet in remaining stitches.
Row 15- Double crochet in each double crochet. Do not work remaining stitches. 22 stitches
Row 16- Chain 2, turn, double crochet in next 20 stitches. Leave chain 2 from previous row unworked. 21 stitches.
Row 17- Chain 2, turn, double crochet in next 18 stitches. 19 stitches.
Row 18- Chain 2, turn, double crochet in next 17 stitches. 18 stitches.
Row 19- Chain 2, turn, double crochet in next 16 stitches. 17 stitches.
Row 20- Chain 2, turn, double crochet in next 15 stitches. 16 stitches.
Row 21- Chain 2, turn, double crochet in next 14 stitches. 15 stitches.
Row 22- Chain 2, turn, double crochet in next 9 stitches, make a double crochet decrease, double crochet in next stitch. 13 stitches.
Row 23- Chain 2, turn, double crochet in next 11 stitches. 12 stitches. Cut off yarn, leaving a 4-5 inch tail for sewing to back.
Front Left:
Row 1- Chain 29. (right side) Double crochet in second (not 3rd) chain from hook, and in each chain stitch. The 2 chains you skipped count as the first double crochet. 28 double crochets.
Row 2-13- Chain 2 (Counts as 1st double crochet, now and throughout). Turn. Double crochet in each double crochet.
Row 14- Chain 1, double crochet in the next 22 stitches, half double crochet in next stitch, single crochet in last 4 stitches.
Row 15- Chain 1, slip stitch in next 5 stitches, chain 2, double crochet in remaining double crochets. 22 stitches
Row 16- [IMPORTANT NOTE= From now until end of this section, you will leave all Chain 2 of previous row unworked. This is how the decreases will be made.] Chain 2, turn, double crochet in next 20 stitches. Leave chain 2 from previous row unworked. 21 stitches.
Row 17- Chain 2, turn, double crochet in next 18 stitches. 19 stitches.
Row 18- Chain 2, turn, double crochet in next 17 stitches. 18 stitches.
Row 19- Chain 2, turn, double crochet in next 16 stitches. 17 stitches.
Row 20- Chain 2, turn, double crochet in next 15 stitches. 16 stitches.
Row 21- Chain 2, turn, double crochet in next 14 stitches. 15 stitches.
Row 22- Chain 2, turn, double crochet in next 9 stitches, make 1 double crochet decrease , double crochet in next stitch. 13 stitches.
Row 23- Chain 2, turn, double crochet in next 11 stitches. 12 stitches. Cut off yarn, leaving a 4-5 inch tail for sewing to back.
BACK:
Row 1- Chain 58 (just like the total number of chains in the front) [Right side!] Double crochet in 2nd chain from hook and each chain.
Row 2-13 Chain 2, turn, double crochet in each double crochet and in each chain 2.
Row 14- Chain 1, turn, single crochet in 1st 5 stitches, half double crochet in next, double crochet in next 44 stitches. Half double crochet in next stitch, single crochet in next 5 stitches.
Row 15- Slip stitch in next 6 stitches, chain 2, double crochet in next double crochet and all other double crochets of row. IMP!! Leave remaining half double and single crochet UNWORKED.
Row 16- 21- Chain 2, turn, double crochet in remaing double crochets. Do not double crochet in any of the chain 2. This will make for the decreases.
Row 22- [LEFT UPPER BACK] Double crochet in next 13 stitches. Half double crochet in next stitch.
Row 23- Chain 2, turn. Half double crochet in next stitch, double crochet in remaining stitches until end of row, half double crochet in last stitch of upper back. Do not work chain 2 stitch. Fastern off, leaving a 4 inch tail and weave in.
Row 22- [RIGHT UPPER BACK] Skip next 9 stitches of row 21, attach yarn with a slip stitch and chain 2, and work same as Row 23 of LEFT UPPER BACK.
Row 23- Chain 2, turn. Half double crochet in next stitch, double crochet in remaining stitches until end of row, half double crochet in last stitch of upper right back. Do not work chain 2 stitch. Fastern off, leaving a 4 inch tail and weave in.
FINISHING:
Whip stitch shoulder with back. Weave in ends. Attach yarn to any chain stitch on bottom, single crochet all around, working in each corner 2 single crochets. Attach the conches in front (I did it in rows 13 of the fronts) and use a pony bead to secure the leather strap. Cut the strap. Tie sides together with another lace. NOTE: Do NOT sew sides together. (unless you *want to!*)
~~~~~~
Important Note: This vest is for a child, size 5. You can adapt this to any size. Yes, I mean any size! Just use a shirt or sweater or vest you already own, starting with the Front Right, make as many chains as you need to get from your side to the middle of your torso. Note the number, because you're going to need it later on for the Left Front and Back.
Start making double crochets in each row, using chain 2 instead of chain 3 (so it won't make holes). Continue working in rows until you reach 2-3 inches from your under arm. Then notice how from Rows 14 and on there are decreases. Follow the instructions, only make the front as wide as you need it. End in the same way each of the decreasing rows end, for as many rows are you need.
For the Left Front, note the way it starts, just like the Right Front. The decreasing row is the same as Left Front, only with the same number of rows you used for the Right front, so make note of how many rows from botton of the vest until you're going to start to decrease. Then note how many decrease rows and repeat this for the Left Front.
For the back, you'll use twice as many chains as the front. In this case, 29 * 2= 58. Just double what you used in the starting chain of the Right Front. Chain 2, double crochet in each chain and in each chain 2. How many rows did you make before the first decrease in the front? That's the number you'll be using for the back. Notice how it's decreased in the back and follow the same instructions. Compare your work with the T shirt or vest or dress you're using to guide you. Start your decreasing with single crochets, a few of them, maybe 4 maybe 5, whatever your preference. Just make sure you write it down, so that the other side is exactly the same. Do the decreasing rows, just the beginning and end, the same as in the Back of this pattern.
Finally, whip stitch the shoulders together and even the sides, if you want. If not, then tie them together with the leather shoe laces and cut to the length you prefer.
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Posted: Wed Apr 05, 2006 10:10 am
Bear Beanie
THIS IS A CROCHET PATTERN
Brown, tan, white, black - 4 ply yarn (I used Simply Soft worsted weight)
Hat fits ages 4-8 yrs old
Size G or H hook (depends how tightly you crochet)
HAT -using brown
Rnd 1- Ch 6, join to form a ring, work 8 hdc in ring. DO NOT JOIN. MARK EACH RND.
Rnd 2- Work 2 hdc in each hdc around (16 hdc)
Rnd 3- *hdc in next hdc, 2hdc in next hdc, repeat from * around, (24 hdc)
Rnd 4- *hdc in next 2 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc, repeat from * around (32)
Rnd 5- *hdc in next 3 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc, repeat from * around (40)
Rnd 6- *hdc in next 4 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc, repeat from * around (48 )
Rnd 7- *hdc in next 5 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc, repeat from * around (56)
Rnd 8- *hdc in next 6 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc, repeat from * around (64)
Rnds 9 through 14- hdc in each hdc around, at end of last rnd join with a sl st. Cut yarn tail about 3" long and weave back through the inside of hat.
Ears - using brown
Ch 14
Sc in each ch, ch 1 and turn
2 sc in each sc. Finish off leaving 6" tail to sew ear on.
Now fold ear in half widthwise, and stitch onto head. (as in photo)
Make another.
Nose - using tan (not peach- even though the photos look like peach!)
Ch 4, join to form a ring
Rnd 1: work 10 hdc inside the ring.
Rnd 2: 2 hdc in each hdc (20 hdc)
Rnd 3: work 1 hdc in each hdc.
Find off leaving 8" tail of yarn.
I also stitched a line under the bears nose, in brown, and then added a line on each side of that for a smile. (Optional)
Stuff nose with a little fiberfill or wool batting. Stich onto face where show in photo.
Eyes - using white
Ch 5
Turn and sc down one side. Then 3 sc in top ch and continue in sc back down the other side of the chain. End off. Make 2. Add a couple of sts of black yarn for inside of eye.
Stitch onto face as shown - sideways.
Bow - rainbow, or any color scrap you wish to use (You can make the bow for the bears head if it is for a girl, or place at his neck, for a boy.)
Chain 50.
End off
Going through 2 hdc at top of hat, thread the 'thread' through. Now tie into a bow.
Or do the same at the neck.
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Posted: Wed Apr 05, 2006 10:12 am
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Posted: Wed Apr 05, 2006 10:17 am
[ Message temporarily off-line ]
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Posted: Wed Apr 05, 2006 12:00 pm
[ Message temporarily off-line ]
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Posted: Wed Apr 05, 2006 12:03 pm
Crown
THIS IS A CROCHET PATTERN
this edging pattern makes an awesome crochet crown! or you can wear it as a necklace.
yarn: Jaeger Extra Fine Merino DK (or any dk weight yarn)
you'll need: crochet hook E
ABBREVIATIONS:
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
tr = treble crochet
sl st = slip stitch
you want the crochet to be "tight", so choose a smaller hook if necessary
row 1: *ch 5, work 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, repeat from * 9 more times (a total of 10 clusters), ch 2, turn
row 2: sc in 2nd ch from hook, *ch 5, sc in next loop, repeat from * across, end with ch 2, dc in last ch, ch 3, turn
row 3: *in next loop work (1 dc, ch 3, 1 dc, ch 3, 1 dc), ch 3, 1 sc in next loop, ch 3, repeat from * across, ch 1, turn
row 4: *in next loop work 3 sc, in next loop work 3 sc, 1 sc in next dc, ch 3, sl st to same dc, in next loop work 3 sc, in next loop work 3 sc, repeat from * across, sl st in last stitch
next: turn work 90 degrees to the side, you will begin working the strap.
row 1: chain 4 (counts as 1 tr), work 2 tr in end, chain 4, turn
row 2: 1 tr in next tr, 1 tr in turning chain, ch 4, turn
repeat row 2 four more times. end the tr rows with a long length of chain stitch to tie it.
you will do the same for the opposite side, joining yarn at the end of the piece and working rows of tr.
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Posted: Wed Apr 05, 2006 12:09 pm
Retro Tank Top
THIS IS A CROCHET PATTERN
Size
Instructions are for size small (6- cool ; changes in parentheses are for sizes medium (10-12) and large (14-16), respectively.
Notes from the Designer
Please note that I have only actually made this garment in size small. I used my gauge and grading books to estimate the size changes. The only thing I had to guess completely was the neck scoop for the tank top on the larger sizes. I had absolutely no idea how deep to make the neck line. If you plan on making this garment in the larger sizes, please keep this in mind. If you find any problems with the pattern, please do not hesitate to let me know. And, I would really appreciate your letting me know if you make it, especially the larger sizes so I will know whether the increases/decreases are correct. Have fun with this one!
Materials
* Crochet Hook: H (or size to obtain gauge)
* 2 (3, 4) skeins Lion Brand Microspun (2.5 oz.) - Lime
* 1 (1, 1) skein Lion Brand Microspun (2.5 oz.) - Mango
* 1 (1, 1) skein Lion Brand Microspun (2.5 oz.) - Buttercup
* Tapestry Needle
* Ruler
Gauge
In pattern, 3 rows = 1 inch and space from 3-sc point to 3-sc point is 2 inches.
Color Pattern
3 rows mango, 4 rows lime, 3 rows buttercup, 4 rows lime, 2 rows mango, 4 rows lime, 2 rows buttercup, 4 rows lime, 1 row mango, continue in lime for the remainder of the pattern.
Front and back (make 2):
Row 1: Ch 76 (86, 96). Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 3 ch. * 3 sc in next ch. Sc in next 4 ch. Sk 2 ch. Sc in next 4 ch. Rep from * to last 5 ch. 3 sc in next ch. Sc in last 4 ch. Ch 1, turn.
Row 2: Sk first sc. * Working in Front Loops only (until told otherwise), sc in next 4 sc. 3 sc in next sc. Sc in next 4 sc. Sk next 2 sc. Rep from * to last 10 sc. Sc in next 4 sc. 3 sc in next sc. Sc in next 3 sc. Sk next sc. Sc through both lps of last sc. Ch 1, turn. (Mark this row as the RIGHT side.)
Continue Row 2 in color pattern shown above, until piece measures approximately 8 (10, 12) inches.
Begin Decreasing Rows for Armholes.
Row 1: Sk 2 sc. Working in Front Loops only (until told otherwise), sc in next 3 sc. * 3 sc in next sc. Sc in next 4 sc. Sk next 2 sc. Sc in next 4 sc. Rep from * to last 5 sc. 3 sc in next sc. Sc in next 2 sc. Sk 2 sc. Sc through both lps of last sc. Ch 1, turn.
Row 2: Sk 2 sc. * Working in Front Loops only (until told otherwise), sc in next 2 sc. * 3 sc in next sc. Sc in next 4 sc. Sk next 2 sc. Sc in next 4 sc. Rep from * to last 4 sc. 3 sc in next sc. Sc in next sc. Sk 2 sc. Sc through both lps of last sc. Ch 1, turn.
Row 3: Sk 2 sc. * Working in Front Loops only (until told otherwise), sc in next sc. * 3 sc in next sc. Sc in next 4 sc. Sk next 2 sc. Sc in next 4 sc. Rep from * to last 3 sc. 3 sc in next sc. Sk 2 sc. Sc through both lps of last sc. Ch 1, turn.
Row 4: Sk 2 sc. Working in Front Loops only (until told otherwise), sc in next sc. * Sc in next 4 sc. Sk next 2 sc. Sc in next 4 sc. 3 sc in next sc. Rep from * to last 9 sc. Sk next 2 sc. Sc in next 5 sc (working in both lps for last sc). Ch 1, turn.
Row 5: Sk 2 sc. Working in Front Loops only (until told otherwise), sk next 2 sc. Sc in next 2 sc. * Sk next 2 sc. Sc in next 4 sc. 3 sc in next sc. Sc in next 4 sc. Rep from * to last 6 sc. Sk 2 sc. Sc in next sc. Sk 1 sc. Sc through both lps of next sc. Ch 1 turn.
Row 6: Sk 2 sc. Working in Front Loops only (until told otherwise), sk next 3 sc. * Sc in next 4 sc. 3 sc in next sc. Sc in next 4 sc. Sk next 2 sc. Rep from * to last 2 sc. Working in both lps, sl st in next sc. Turn.
Row 7: This Row is worked in BOTH lps throughout. Sl st in next 2 sc. Ch 1, sc in same st. Sc in next 3 sc. 2 sc in next sc. * Sk 1 sc. Hdc in next sc. Dc in next 2 sc. Tr in next 2 sc. Dc in next 2 sc. Hdc in next sc. Sk 1 sc. Sc in next sc. Rep from * to last 5 sc. Sc in same sc and in next 4 sc. Fasten off.
For shoulders: Continue working in BOTH loops throughout. Attach yarn to right side at 2nd sc of 2-sc point. Ch 1. Hdc in each of next 8 stitches. * Ch 1, turn. Hdc in each of next 8 hdc. Rep from * until shoulder measures 4 (5, 6) inches. Fasten off. For other shoulder, attach yarn to wrong side at 2nd sc of other 2-sc point. Ch 1. Hdc in each of next 8 stitches. Rep from * until shoulder measures 4 (5, 6) inches. Fasten off.
For bottom row: Attach yarn to right side (working in unused loops of beginning chain) and repeat in pattern as for Row 7 above, beginning with ch 1, sc in same stitch. Hdc, 2 dc, 2 tr, etc. Fasten off.
Finishing
Weave in all ends and stitch pieces together at sides and shoulder.
With lime, work reverse sc evenly around armholes, neck hole and bottom. Fasten off and weave in all ends.
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Posted: Wed Apr 05, 2006 12:21 pm
Eyelet Rib Socks
THIS IS A KNITTING PATTERN
Materials:
Fingering weight yarn (socka, fortissima, etc.)
Size 2 US needles, set of 4 dp's
Instructions:
Cast on 36.
Row 1, 3, 5, and 6: P1, k5
Row 2: p1, k1, yo, sl1 -- k2tog -- psso, yo, k1
Row 4: P1, k2, yo, ssk, k1
Repeat until cuff is desired length, 2 - 3 inches.
Knit 2 rounds plain.
Work heel over 18 sts. I'm going to give flap heel directions, but feel free to use any heel you like.
*Slip 1, knit 1* 9 times (18 sts total), turn and slip 1, purl back. Repeat these two rows until 17 rows are worked, ending with a right side row.
Purl 9, p2tog, p1, turn.
*Slip 1, k1, k2tog, k1, turn.
Slip 1, p2, p2tog, p1, turn.*
Continue in this manner (between *'s, adding one more stitch each time) until all stitches are being worked. 10 sts remain.
With the needle in heel, pick up 10 stitches along the right side of the heel. Knit the 18 instep stitches onto 1 needle. With the empty needle, pick up 10 stitches along the left side of the heel and knit 5 stitches off the heel needle. You now have 15, 18, 15 stitches.
Begin the gusset decreases. On the first needle, knit to the last three sts, k2tog, k1. On the second needle, work even. On the third needle, k1, ssk, work to end. Work the decreases every round until 9 stitches remain on needles 1 and 3. (Back to 36 sts total.)
Work even until the foot is about 1" less than the total desired length. Work the toes. I like wedge toes, but again, if you want something else, knit something else.
First needle: knit to last three sts, k2tog, k1
Second needle: k1, ssk, knit to last three sts, k2tog, k1
Third needle: k1, ssk, work to end.
Repeat until 8 sts remain (2,4,2). Cut yarn, draw through all stitches twice or kitchener toes.
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Posted: Wed Apr 05, 2006 12:22 pm
FROM THIS POST ON ALL PATTERNS WILL BE IN PRETEEN SIZES
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Posted: Wed Apr 05, 2006 12:24 pm
Fringed Shawl
THIS IS A CROCHET PATTERN
Measurements
* Triangle of 60" width by 15" height (excluding fringe)
Materials
* 12 oz. Worsted-weight yarn
* Size Q (16mm) crochet hook OR SIZE TO OBTAIN GAUGE
Gauge
6 sts and 4 rows to 4" over Half Double Crochet (hdc) with 2 strands held together and size Q (16mm) hook.
Single Crochet (sc)
For illustrations and instruction go to: www:learntocrochet.com/instructions_cr.php3
Half Double Crochet (hdc)
1. Wrap the yarn over the hook and insert hook into the work (into the third chain from the hook at the beginning of rows).
2. Wrap the yarn over the hook and pull through the work only (3 loops are on hook).
3. Wrap the yarn again and draw through all 3 loops on hook at once.
Slip Stitch (Sl st)
1. Insert the hook into the work.
2. Wrap the yarn over the hook and draw the yarn through the work and through the loop on the hook in one movement.
SEE ABBREVIATIONS AT THE END OF THE PATTERN.
Shawl
To start: Ch 93. Beg with 3rd chain from hook, work hdc into each st-90 sts.
Next row: Turn and decrease 3 sts at beg of row as foll: ch1, sl st into the 2nd st from the hook, sl st into the 3rd st from the hook; work hdc over 85 sts leaving last 3 sts unworked.
Next row: Turn and decrease 3 sts at beg of row as foll: ch1, sl st into the 2nd st from the hook, sl st into the 3rd st from the hook; work hdc over 79 sts leaving last 3 sts unworked.
Continue in this manner decreasing 3 stitches at beginning and 3 stitches at end of row until a total of 15 decrease rows have been worked and there is only 1 st left for last row (this stitch is the center point of the bottom of the triangular shawl). Fasten off.
Finishing
Work single crochet around all edges of shawl. Make fringe along 2 bottom edges as follows: Cut yarn into 10" lengths; insert crochet hook through edge of shawl from back to front; fold fringe piece in half and place center onto hook; pull loop through work, then insert ends of fringe through loop and pull ends to tighten.
Abbreviations
Beg beginning
Ch chain
Foll following
Hdc half double crochet
Mm millimeter
Sc single crochet
Sl st slip stitch
St(s) stitch(es)
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Posted: Wed Apr 05, 2006 12:40 pm
Sorry thats all I could find for both preteens and teens but I will keep looking. biggrin
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