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Irrlich
Vice Captain

PostPosted: Tue Feb 17, 2009 8:01 am


I would quarentine that fish. Do you have another tank to keep him in? Or a large jug? You wouldn't want it to end up contaminating the other fish. Give it fresh water daily, though I'm not sure if you should take water from the tank or conditioned from the tap.

I looked around the net a bit and it sounds like your fish has what is called Velvet. Here are some words on it:

Quote:
They appear as yellow or brown dusty spots on the fish. The fish may show signs of irritation and may be rubbing on surfaces in the tank.

Remedy: Quarantine the fish because Velvet is highly infectious. Treat it with copper at 0.2 mg per litre. Repeat once every few days if needed. Do not prolong the treatment as copper can cause fish poisoning.


Quote:
Velvet looks similar to Ich, but there will be many more small white spots that appear dusty. This Protozoan disease in fresh water environments is caused by Oodinium limneticum and Oodinium pillularis. In marine environments by Oodinium occellatum. The parasite attacks the eyes, fins, gills and skin. The disease may resemble "Ick", but is recognized by a dusty appearance on these surfaces and can have a yellowish color. The fish may attempt to scrape itself against objects in the aquarium, exhibit a loss of appetite or a stressed-rapid breathing. The parasite has a cyclical life span and can only be affected by treatment during the free-swimming stages of the cycle

Treatment: In most cases the use of a Copper Sulfate or Copper Formalin based medication should be able to clear most parasite outbreaks. I recommend Copper Safe, or Maracyn. In severe cases, it may become necessary to exactly determine the type of parasite, so that a more targeted medication may be prescribed. There are various commercial remedies on the market which commonly come in either chelated or non-chelated formulas. Chelated formulas are easier to administer, but may not be as effective as non-chelated formulas with certain outbreaks. Whichever brand you choose, be careful to follow the manufacturers directions precisely. The parasite usually leaves an open wound once it leaves the host to reproduce and in many instances a secondary bacterial or fungus infection may occur. It is always prudent to combine an antibiotic remedy with the parasite treatment to prevent further complications.

Thermal Therapy: In aquarium environments with warm water species, raising the aquarium temperature to 90º for a period of 5 consecutive days may also be effective. Do not use thermal therapy on fish sensitive to warm temperatures, as it will only lead to increased biological stress.


Quote:
Symptoms: Clamped fins, respiratory distress (breathing hard), yellow to light brown "dust" on body.

This disease has the appearance of a golden or brownish dust over the fins and body. The fish may show signs of irritation, like glancing off aquarium decor, shortage of breath (fish-wise), and clamping of the fins. The gills are usually the first thing affected. Velvet affects different species in different ways. Danios seem to be the most susceptible, but often show no discomfort. This disease is highly contagious and fatal.
The best treatment is with copper at 0.2 mg per liter (0.2 ppm) to be repeated once in a few days if necessary. Acriflavine (trypaflavine) may be used instead at 0.2% solution (1 ml per liter). As acriflavine can possibly sterilize fish and copper can lead to poisoning, the water should be gradually changed after a cure has been effected.


These are my sources:
http://ezinearticles.com/?Common-Fish-Diseases,-Problems&id=1934544
http://www.geocities.com/mpreseau1/diseases.html
http://animal-world.com/encyclo/fresh/information/Diseases.htm

also: http://www.tropicalfishcentre.co.uk/Diseases1.htm
I hope all goes well.

I used to keep albino corries with white sand substrate. And I must say, the whiteness really brings out their eyes. They also turn pinker when kept like that. Like they have a fullbody blush, very cute.
PostPosted: Tue Feb 17, 2009 1:47 pm


you wanna use conditioned tap water if you quarantine it. you want THE FRESHEST newest water you can give it.
and as for the color
i didnt think anything about it because danios can be a more yellow sometimes especially males. does this one have long flowy fins? and the color....does it look like its on it in a dusted layer? if it IS velvet treat the whole tank. its VERY contagious and there is no point in taking out a single fish for it.

if it isnt scratching (doesnt sound like it is) then it probably doesnt have any external irritants like velvet or ich. i have had fish with internal parasites and they acted this same way (sitting at the top of the water and not eating)

Grim Weeper Vi

Phantom


SASSY BLACK GURL

PostPosted: Tue Feb 17, 2009 2:25 pm


♦♦♦

D;

He died in the night. I took him out at 5:30 in the morning. He wasn't scratching so I hope he didn't have anything contagious. I have no idea what was wrong with him. I put in some copper in case. It said to add every other day. Is that too much?

EDIT: The skin was just yellow when I took him out and examined him. It was something on the inside of his body/skin.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 17, 2009 3:34 pm


aww sorry about your fish : (
just keep an eye on the others. it may have been something internal and so it may not be so contagious. you could do a water change (big one...like maybe 50%) to help get rid of anything that may be left behind (if anything is left behind) and make sure the rest are eating and alert.

fish are tricky little buggers. some just die and you will never know why or they will look great one day and then suddenly you gotta flush em D:

i hope the others are doing well...keep us updated

Grim Weeper Vi

Phantom


SASSY BLACK GURL

PostPosted: Tue Feb 17, 2009 3:40 pm


I'm getting water ready for a 25% change right now.
I'll probably do another tomorrow.

The others appear normal and they all ate. :3
I hope they survive.

If I were to get a fish to take his place, could I get a GloFish? (Genetically alteredness FTW!) Would the other danios treat him normally?

P.S. Thanks for the add!
PostPosted: Tue Feb 17, 2009 4:06 pm


yeah
the glofish is a danio in all ways except it can glow XD
i'd wait f or a little bit though to make absolutely sure the other fish are ok

Grim Weeper Vi

Phantom


SASSY BLACK GURL

PostPosted: Tue Feb 17, 2009 4:08 pm


Yeah, I'm definitely not getting fish for at least two weeks. That would suck.

After a while though, I am so getting a GloFish.
PostPosted: Tue Feb 17, 2009 4:13 pm


they are a little expensive
around here its $8 a fish @_@

but they are really neat

Grim Weeper Vi

Phantom


Irrlich
Vice Captain

PostPosted: Wed Feb 18, 2009 10:24 am


Awww, poor fishy sad
Good luck with the rest of them. You seem quite attentive though, so I'm sure they'll make it.
Almost everybody has a false start when starting with aquariums. And even with years of experience, things still go wrong. But that's part of the chalange ^^

Of all fish the danios are on of the last species that would shun another fish. They are quite playfull and I've seen them school together with other species too. The only social problem I've ever had with them is that they might be a little too playfull and hyper for some of the grouchier fish, like bettas and sharks. But after a few nips and run ins they usually learn to respect the term personal space.

Also, since you used copper, make sure the copper is not in the tank anymore when you add invebrates. They don't handle medication all too well.
PostPosted: Wed Feb 18, 2009 2:18 pm


Thanks.
I'll continue adding the copper for...two weeks?
I'm happy to announce that all my fish are doing well. smile
I put in a lot more water because my dad said it annoyed him while he slept. Now the filter makes like 50x less bubbles. While this create an oxygen problem? The water falls about 3/4 of an inch. I would hope this wouldn't be a problem with 5 fish but I just wanted to check.

SASSY BLACK GURL


Grim Weeper Vi

Phantom

PostPosted: Wed Feb 18, 2009 2:27 pm


no
as long as the surface of the water is stirred in some way :3 but if you like you can add a bubble thinger
they come in all shapes and sizes and some fish like to play in it razz

and you dont need to keep adding the copper since you dont know what killed your fish. keep an eye on em and if they scratch (bounce off of rocks and such) then add the ich meds. fluffy white spots are fungus and you need fungus meds and certain things you need antibacterial meds for.
PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2009 2:36 pm


Good.
I didn't wanna take water out. xD

Are you saying I should stop adding the copper now? The fish don't scratch at all.

SASSY BLACK GURL


Grim Weeper Vi

Phantom

PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2009 3:07 pm


yeah you can stop with the copper if they are looking good. adding meds for "no reason" (in this situation its "no reason" because we dont know what killed your last fish and so cant treat anything) can stress certain fish out

you have to treat for what you know cuz there are different meds for different things. you can add some aquarium salt since its an all purpose stress reliever and disease stopper.

the diseases are so small and the salt changes the density of the water and so pressure changes. things like ich actually explode off of fresh water fish when put in a full strength salty bath. the fish can take such a bath for a few minutes but the disease cant.
you are just adding a little for electrolytes (very good for fish...think of gatorade) and disease prevention. much nicer than meds any day : 3
PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2009 3:11 pm


oh and im on gim if you ever wanna chat there
i try to be on there often


i also have yim if you even wanna talk there
its happyskittles :3 this info is for you too irrlich even though we have very different time zones razz just in case

Grim Weeper Vi

Phantom


Irrlich
Vice Captain

PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2009 1:25 am


Thank you Skittles smile
I hear you talk a lot about aquarium salt, how is it different from normal salt? I always just used table salt to treat fish for ich.
I didn't know that a salt bath would do that to those parasites, I thought it functioned the same way tick and ant extermination works, by targeting the freeswimming 'larva', and not the adult that's feeding on the fish.
Here are two articles I found:
http://www.nippyfish.net/ich.html
http://www.kokosgoldfish.com/IchPrevention.html

I see that my method is much under debate, but I find it works quite well. I just know it anoys fish. They get all jittery after I add the salt, but return to normal after a few minutes. I never had a bad ich infestation though.
Copper seems to be mentioned as a med too though.

That's not to say you have ich in there Yogurt

Oh and if you guys want to add me my email is LightningLife@html.com
I'm rarely on though ^^;
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