ah yes hand-sewing
3nodding . I'm a hand-sewing cosplayer (I'm terrified of sewing machines, nonetheless am good with them
sweatdrop ).
I don't use a lot of stitching styles to be honest, since I don't embroider; I just use whatever to get the job done, lol. I don't use the backstitch actually, I use a tight running stitch (meaning it has barely to no space in between the stitches), so it works very well in holding fabric together.
Of course I use double thread for thicker fabrics, but if that doesn't work, I also use the oversewing stitch, though I find it clumps the fabric alot :/.
http://www.alternative-windows.com/stitches.htm - stitches
The site also has a section on hemming, but anyways, best of luck hand-sewing ::salute::