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 Posted: Mon Jan 16, 2012 5:40 pm
NOTE: This thread desperately needs more terms added. I'll be sure to update this soon.) 3nodding
A
B
Blade play - Any vertical or horizontal movement of the blade at the pivot screw/pin when a folding knife is in the opened and locked position. Play is considered negative and it is preferable to have a knife with a smooth action and no blade play.
F
FRN - Fiberglass Reinforced Nylon
G
G-10 - Fiberglass with an epoxy resin binder offering excellent strength and low weight. Often used for knife handles.
T
Trainer - A blunt training version of a knife. Often made of stainless steel and having a red handle. Some fixed blade trainers are made entirely out of Zytel, aluminum or rubber.
Z
Zytel- A glass-reinforced nylon resin often used for knife handles and sheaths.
-----------------LOCK TYPES----------------------------------------
Folding knives use many different types of locking mechanisms.
Clasp lock
Back Lock
Liner Lock
Frame Lock
ARC Lock (Exclusive to SOG)
AXIS Lock (Exclusive to Benchmade)
SAT (Exclusive to SOG. All SAT knives are assisted openers)
Slip Joint - Not actually a "lock". None locking folding knife usually use a slip joint "lock" in which there is no actual lock but resistance must be applied to the back of the blade to close the knife. This is the type of lock used with such knives as Swiss Army Knives made by Victorinox.
-----------------STEEL TYPES----------------------------------------
Many different types of steels are used in knife making. Here is a list with related features and uses.
Steel type- properties/characteristics/uses
420j - Superior rust resistance poor edge retention.
440c - Great rust resistance, decent edge retention.
SK5 - A tough Japanese steel often used for fixed blades and tools such as saws. Similar to American 1080 steel.
AUS8 - A japanese steel with fair rust resistance and good edge retention.
154CM - A staple of Benchmade knives. Fair rust resistance with excellent edge retention.
VG10 - Japanese steel. Excellent edge retention.
S30V - Superior edge retention.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------I got this Glossary of knife terms from SOG's website.
A. Edge
The sharpened part of the blade, from point to bolster (E to F). The edge can be either straight, serrated, or a combination of the two.
B. Spine
The side opposite the sharpened edge is referred to as the spine.
C. Handle
The handle envelops the tang (H) and is usually fastened by rivets or encased in plastic or metal.
D. Tip
The third of a blade's tapered end, opposite the handle.
E. Point
Located at the tip of the knife, the point should be sharp and relatively thin. It is used for making incisions, cutting, and carving.
F. Bolster/Guard
A thick piece of metal between the handle and the blade that is typically found on fixed blade knives. It is made to add weight to the knife, provide it with better balance, and create a comfortable resting place in the hand.
G. Butt or Pommel
The butt or pommel end of a knife is located opposite from the tip at the end of the handle.
H. Tang (not pictured)
The part of the blade that runs from the bolster back into the handle is known as the tang. There are two types of tangs. A full tang runs the entire length of the handle while a half tang only runs a partial extent of the handle. Higher end knives generally have a full tang.
Post your additions and I will add them as I can.. 3nodding
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Posted: Mon Feb 13, 2012 4:50 pm
Honestly I didn't know this guild was really obsessed with knives I thought it was just for fun... sweatdrop
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Posted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 4:15 pm
Prince of Duckies Honestly I didn't know this guild was really obsessed with knives I thought it was just for fun... sweatdrop lol. It can be for fun. and yah I'm quite interested in knives. I can't speak for the entire guild but I'd say I have a mild obsession for throwing knives at least. If you have any questions I may be able to help. Hope to see you back again.
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Posted: Sat Apr 21, 2012 11:08 pm
"The 10 series"
You've probably talked to some guy in a knife shop boasting about a "1095" blade or something to that effect. As a blacksmith, it's my duty to educate people on plain carbon steels.
Typically there are 4 numbers when working with steel. XXXX. The first 2 represent alloying elements and industrial processes (such as chromium and resulfurizing). 10 is plain carbon steel, the easiest and most forgiving, not to mention one of the hardest of iron alloys. The second 2 numbers represent carbon content. 1095 = .95% carbon, just under one percent. The higher the carbon, the harder (and in turn more brittle) the steel can become.
1060 is the threshold of hardness...meaning any more carbon added will not make it any harder....except for maybe one or two points Rockwell. Carbon contents above 1080 are extremely brittle unless tempered at a high temperature (around 500-600F). And I would not buy any blade with anything over a percent as chipping and cracking become problematic.
A very common steel used by bladesmiths is the 5160 steel (common leaf spring). 5160 contains Chromium for deep hardening. This is one of my favorite steels for monosteel blades as it's cheap and will chop a tree down and still retain an edge. 5160 is not practical to fold as it doesn't weld easy. It doesn't get a mirror polish like some stainless does but it will eat any stainless blade for breakfast.
In summary, a 1060 blade is better suited as an every day knife because it's more tough, where a 1095 is better suited for special purposes, saving it's edge from chipping. Edge retention is better with the 1095, but I wouldn't pry anything open with it.
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Posted: Sun Apr 22, 2012 12:17 pm
chainmailleman "The 10 series" You've probably talked to some guy in a knife shop boasting about a "1095" blade or something to that effect. As a blacksmith, it's my duty to educate people on plain carbon steels. Typically there are 4 numbers when working with steel. XXXX. The first 2 represent alloying elements and industrial processes (such as chromium and resulfurizing). 10 is plain carbon steel, the easiest and most forgiving, not to mention one of the hardest of iron alloys. The second 2 numbers represent carbon content. 1095 = .95% carbon, just under one percent. The higher the carbon, the harder (and in turn more brittle) the steel can become. 1060 is the threshold of hardness...meaning any more carbon added will not make it any harder....except for maybe one or two points Rockwell. Carbon contents above 1080 are extremely brittle unless tempered at a high temperature (around 500-600F). And I would not buy any blade with anything over a percent as chipping and cracking become problematic. A very common steel used by bladesmiths is the 5160 steel (common leaf spring). 5160 contains Chromium for deep hardening. This is one of my favorite steels for monosteel blades as it's cheap and will chop a tree down and still retain an edge. 5160 is not practical to fold as it doesn't weld easy. It doesn't get a mirror polish like some stainless does but it will eat any stainless blade for breakfast. In summary, a 1060 blade is better suited as an every day knife because it's more tough, where a 1095 is better suited for special purposes, saving it's edge from chipping. Edge retention is better with the 1095, but I wouldn't pry anything open with it. Thanks for posting this. some really good information there. I know I learned something. smile
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Posted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 10:04 am
I think CPM S30V is probably the best steel for edge retention.
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Posted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 10:26 am
Ego Death I think CPM S30V is probably the best steel for edge retention. It's a really good steel. One of my favorites but I think it's not very suitable for throwing knives of course.
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Posted: Sun May 06, 2012 7:42 pm
Tramadoll Ego Death I think CPM S30V is probably the best steel for edge retention. It's a really good steel. One of my favorites but I think it's not very suitable for throwing knives of course. How would you compare it to VG10. also do you know if there are any SOG knives which use S30V. Benchmades are too expensive.
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Posted: Tue May 08, 2012 6:34 pm
Ego Death Tramadoll Ego Death I think CPM S30V is probably the best steel for edge retention. It's a really good steel. One of my favorites but I think it's not very suitable for throwing knives of course. How would you compare it to VG10. also do you know if there are any SOG knives which use S30V. Benchmades are too expensive. S30V is a bit better for edge retention. From personal experience I'd say it has better rust resistance to. I'll have to look into that other question. Now I'm a bit interested to find out myself. wink
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Posted: Wed May 09, 2012 5:40 pm
Ego Death Tramadoll Ego Death I think CPM S30V is probably the best steel for edge retention. It's a really good steel. One of my favorites but I think it's not very suitable for throwing knives of course. How would you compare it to VG10. also do you know if there are any SOG knives which use S30V. Benchmades are too expensive. Apparently there are none in current production. SOG had a fixed blade at one point, but are no longer producing any knives with S30V.
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Posted: Thu May 10, 2012 3:01 pm
Tramadoll Ego Death Tramadoll Ego Death I think CPM S30V is probably the best steel for edge retention. It's a really good steel. One of my favorites but I think it's not very suitable for throwing knives of course. How would you compare it to VG10. also do you know if there are any SOG knives which use S30V. Benchmades are too expensive. Apparently there are none in current production. SOG had a fixed blade at one point, but are no longer producing any knives with S30V. Thanks for checking.
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Posted: Sat May 12, 2012 5:32 pm
Ego Death Tramadoll Ego Death Tramadoll Ego Death I think CPM S30V is probably the best steel for edge retention. It's a really good steel. One of my favorites but I think it's not very suitable for throwing knives of course. How would you compare it to VG10. also do you know if there are any SOG knives which use S30V. Benchmades are too expensive. Apparently there are none in current production. SOG had a fixed blade at one point, but are no longer producing any knives with S30V. Thanks for checking. np 3nodding
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Posted: Thu Aug 02, 2012 12:58 am
Thanks this thread is really helping me a lot!
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Posted: Wed Sep 12, 2012 12:17 am
immovable Object Thanks this thread is really helping me a lot! very glad to hear it. let me know if you have any questions.
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