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sorry, heres the pic:

im actually re-vamping my rig. i have a design for a 3-way full range bass cabinet and then a subwoofer cabinet with a 21" sub. im going to build the two cabs instead of finishing my current rig. and to top it all off, im going to have my cabinets made out of 3/4" plywood like most cabs, but 3/4" plexiglass!!! hellz yeah! its going to be the sweetest rig ever created! if i have some money left over, im going to get my fender bassman 300's outside shell replaced with a plexiglass one as well, and maybe even replace the chassis with a chrome one since all the hardware on my cabs will be chrome. can you say ******** sweet??!?!?!?!?! NOBODY STEAL MY IDEA OR I WILL EFFING KILL YOU WITH MY BARE HANDS!

well the thing is, the second reason im using plexiglass is because of the zero tone in it. they use plexiglass chambers to test the frequency responce of woofers because they dont color the sound at all. im looking to get as flat as a frequency response out of this baby. and second, plexiglas is 100% void free unlike its plywood counterpart. a good 70% of plywood id say is void free, but there is still that 30% (dont quote me its just a guesstamate) chance of getting some voids in the wood, even if you buy grade a. so theres no PERFECT material to use for cabs except maybe the right kind of hardwood for you application but who wants to lug around a cab made out of hardwood?

Plus, plexiglass has come a long way in the past years with newer methods for making the areas around the screw holes stronger. tama drums just came out with an all plexiglass drum set i cant remember what its called off the top of my head but after reading about that set several months ago when it came out, i read about the problem with cracks and stuff around the holes and how they perfected it and its not a very big problem anymore(you'd be surprised how many drumsets/snare drums are made out of plexiglass and even regular glass and they get nothing but hits from drumsticks!).

another thing is, im not going to be building these cabs myself. i dont have any of the resources to do so such as a buffer to clean off all the scratches i would make from sawing and drilling holes. so, im going to have a company that deals specifcaly with plastics in my area (probablly seelye plastics) pretty much build my cabs for me to my own specs.

yeah i saw a picture on ampegs website of the cab they made for the beastie boys and that is actually what inspired me to do so. i dont however leave near by low down sound, i actually live very far away but i have a lot of time to plan out the full schematics of my cabs. i've got the general shape and outside dimensions down, also dimensions for venting and such but im going to spend some more time looking into making the joints stronger. the plastic company that i will most likely go to deals specifically with custom plastic jobs and they have been doing it for a longgg time. so im guessing that they would have a few ideas about how to make the actual box itself stronger. and yes, i will most definatly get a road case for each cab. actually i was thinking of making a soft case for each one and then building my own road case around the cabs with the soft cases so its like 2 levels of protection. i would be able to do that for really dirt cheap because i know of a diy music site that has directions for building your own everything. like cases and boxes and crap and even your own lighting system

haha you never give up do you?!

first, lining the inside of it isnt for midrange reflections. its to reduce standing waves and prevent vibrations coming from the speakers from going into the wood of the cabinet and causing the cabinet itself from making noise. plus, the midrange driver that i have picked out has a closed back so i dont need to seal the midrange or dampen it.

Alright, keep in mind, these are not from me, one from one of the moderators of the board, and the second is from cab builder Bill Fitzmaurice (http://www.billfitzmaurice.com/):

"Standing waves are just really bad midrange reflections, so in disagreeing he is actually agreeing.......

The stuff about the lining preventing the vibrations from going into the wood is rubbish. Mids and highs don't vibrate the wood anywhere near as much as lows. And ironically the lows go right through the lining like it's not even there. Indeed lining on a dedicated sub isn't required.

The sealed mid is well and good, and if he is satisfied the woofers on this cab produce no midrange whatsoever, and my that I mean there is a crossover in place that strips the mids and highs away from the woofers, then he migt get away with not using any lining. If the cab is like most bass cabs, with a crossover on the mid driver but not on the woofers, the midrange produced by the woofers will bounce around inside the cab and the absence of lining will be a problem.

Now lets talk about bracing. Regardless of what they're made of, panels flexing and vibrating excessively is an enormous waste of acoustic energy. How does he propose to brace the cab? Or is he going to make the plexiglass so thick that vibrations aren't a problem? How thick would the plexiglass have to be to achieve this, and how much will the final cab weigh?"

"The most charitable way to put it is that his understanding of the physics of loudspeaker design is sorely lacking. In the vernacular, he's got it totally bass-ackwards."

And this one is a response from Bill to the first post:

"Even subwoofers crossed over below 80 Hz have plenty of midrange content, in the form of harmonics that they create themselves with the motion of the driver cone. The further the cone moves the more harmonic content they create. Direct radiator subwoofer enclosures should be lined with damping to absorb those harmonics, so that they can't reflect off the cab interior back to the cone or out the port if there is one. The same applies to drivers crossed over above 80Hz, where the need is even more critical."

And in response to the Beastie Boys vids and pic:

"The thing is, the sound that is fed into his IEMs and the FOH is coming from a DI. The amp doesn't have to sound good. And it probably doesn't. Most likely, it's barely functional. It's a stage prop. No more or less a gimmick than Geddy Lee's dryers and chicken rotisseries."

I'm sorry bro, I really am, but these guys don't think it'll work, and you'll just be out a good bit of cash.
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i have a Hartke 250 watt head

with a Hartke 4x10 cab and a Hartke 1x15 cab

thoughi usually only take the 4x10

cos its tight and punchy

and i cant be bothered lugging the 15 around with it