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Escaflowne_11

PostPosted: Sat Jan 20, 2007 3:54 pm


angrymalazar
Escaflowne_11
angrymalazar
Escaflowne_11
MuchachoDelZorro
My my.. Someone got a bit 'antsy'.

My fretless can withstand the 'damage', I guess I should say. But yes, that slipped my mind.

Sorry for defying the laws of tradition.


Has nothing to do with tradition. Its crazy to slap on a fretless in my opinion. Sound aside, its way to expensive of a technique. Even if you have a hard wood, or something to apply over that area, the strongest wood would wear over time, and the extra applications would alter the tone of the bass, making it worse and worse over time. You can do it if you want, but its your call. Slap hits the fingerboard much harder than just regular playing, so be weary of that. I only got worked up because he did it to a 1500 doller bass. You damaging it, and having to pay for damages would ruin your visit. All of my adivice about slapping on fretless basses isnt made up, its passed down from the pros, and their advice. Go ahead slap em away, but in the end its not good for them.

And yes, having those dents in your fingerboard affects different areas of your sound. The strings wont have a consistant hight at certian points, and if your concerned about the string height, you wont ever be able to get it right with an unbalanced, dented board.

In the end I see it as the same way as putting sandpaper to my double bass. I guess it wont do enough damage to it, and I guess you could lacquore the hell out of it, but why the hell would you want to do that to a perfectly good bass?


This question is still debated much in bass world, and I like to take a middle ground on it. Laquer is applied to most fretless fingerboards no matter how dense or hard it is to begin with, just a precaution. You will make grooves in the wood, eventually. I've seen basses with grooves after one night of heavy slap, and I've seen 20 year old basses in practically pristine condition after all the "abuse" it's taken in the past years, a lot of it depends on your technique, if you're an aggressive slapper, then yeah, you're going to wear out the board faster than if you had a softer touch, but either way, it's going to wear. But so will a fretted, and it's not necessarily cheaper to replace frets. Assuming you take it to someone knows how to do it well, it'll run you about $100-$200 for a refretting. If you want to try it yourself, considerably less, but you'd better have to tools and knowledge, because it is easier to fix dents on the end of the fingerboard than a big chunk out of the middle. A lot of pros slap on the fretlesses as well, Claypool, Hellborg, Manring, Palladino, and even Jaco slapped his fretless. Just save it for when you own the bass instead of taking a chance on a test run. And am I mistaken in saying that many people slap their uprights?

Edit: Sorry guys, I've been saying laquer this whole time while I meant epoxy, my mistake.


No your correct, I would just like to warn those that its a price heavy technique. You can totally do it if you want, but I would say its way less expensive to fret your bass instead of replacing the fingerboard. Especially if you want the fingerboard done right. Frets will also last longer than the wood will. Either way, wearing your fingerboard down, and replacing it with a different material isnt my idea of a good replacement. It can be done, but I like the wood sound more than an artificial material.


Actually, replacing finger boards is very cheap, providing you have the knowledge and tools to do so, generally a heat gun, something long and very thin (but not sharp, don't want to gouge the wood more than you have to), varying grades of sandpaper, a saw of some sort, and some more glue. Take the old finger board, head to any place that sells hardwoods (I recommend flooring and furniture suppliers), and buy a good 2x1 sheet of 1/4 in. laminate of the wood that strikes your fancy (my new bass is gonna have a Gonco Alves finger board, very dense and awesome grain). Slowly heat one end of your old finger board (don't use a high heat setting for obvious reasons) and gently pry up with whatever tool you picked, it will take a long time for the glue to loosen but it will eventually. After you have it off, lay it on your sheet of new wood and trace around it and cut out the design. Sand it up and put a nice finish on it, reglue, and you're set. Time consuming, but much cheaper and you have more options available to you. And don't forget to sand down the board into curve you like, all fret boards have a slight curve, that's the one point I'd suggest taking it to carpenter or luthier of sorts.


Well, the difference of doing it professionally, and doing it at home would change the pricing, but I always prefer to have a professional work on my gear. (not being snobby or stuck up, but Im getting hired with my equipment, I want the best out of it I can get) The difference between getting that, and getting another fingerboard that was actually intended for the bass is the trick. I doubt I would ever get the board to sand down the way that I wanted it to. Nor would I ever want to attempt to undo the gluing on any of my basses. They costed way to much to try something at home...
PostPosted: Sat Jan 20, 2007 6:13 pm


what happend to talking about my fav. subject?Six Strings!

TraigLighthouse


osgood_schloter_boi

PostPosted: Sat Jan 20, 2007 6:23 pm


no idea, this is just what happens when you post a topic based on opinions rolleyes
PostPosted: Sat Jan 20, 2007 6:37 pm


I want a six-string. razz

MuchachoDelZorro


TraigLighthouse

PostPosted: Wed Jan 24, 2007 5:07 pm


MuchachoDelZorro
I want a six-string. razz
me too(ibanez soundgear)
PostPosted: Sat Jan 27, 2007 3:38 pm


Six strings are more versitile and you can have more choices. But that
doesn't matter because I hate how fat the neck gets.

the_Crimson_Bolshevik


Pandora's Box

PostPosted: Sat Jan 27, 2007 3:46 pm


I've fiddled around with a six string bass. It was tuned like a guitar and it was for guitarist who wanted to play bass, but this way they didn't have to learn a new instrument. It was interesting, but I much prefer my regular old 4 string bass.
PostPosted: Mon Feb 05, 2007 1:22 pm


Pandora's Box
I've fiddled around with a six string bass. It was tuned like a guitar and it was for guitarist who wanted to play bass, but this way they didn't have to learn a new instrument. It was interesting, but I much prefer my regular old 4 string bass.
thats kinda sad...if you want to play the intsrument you should play it like its ment to be played(with the exception of the fender bassVI)

TraigLighthouse


Escaflowne_11

PostPosted: Thu Feb 08, 2007 10:34 am


TraigLighthouse
Pandora's Box
I've fiddled around with a six string bass. It was tuned like a guitar and it was for guitarist who wanted to play bass, but this way they didn't have to learn a new instrument. It was interesting, but I much prefer my regular old 4 string bass.
thats kinda sad...if you want to play the intsrument you should play it like its ment to be played(with the exception of the fender bassVI)


Like its ment to be played? That leaves NO room for thinking outside the box. How do you think tunings like drop D and open E were invented? Just play it how you wanna play it. Nuff said!
PostPosted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 3:10 pm


Escaflowne_11
TraigLighthouse
Pandora's Box
I've fiddled around with a six string bass. It was tuned like a guitar and it was for guitarist who wanted to play bass, but this way they didn't have to learn a new instrument. It was interesting, but I much prefer my regular old 4 string bass.
thats kinda sad...if you want to play the intsrument you should play it like its ment to be played(with the exception of the fender bassVI)


Like its ment to be played? That leaves NO room for thinking outside the box. How do you think tunings like drop D and open E were invented? Just play it how you wanna play it. Nuff said!
sorry.I over looked that fact. sweatdrop i tend to do that somtimes...i still think picollo basses are out the window though(a bass tuned an octive up)

TraigLighthouse

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