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Posted: Mon Jun 06, 2005 9:01 am
Ophiuchus Lozt_1 xUnknownxAngelx Cagalli Yura Attha Depending on materials, it's gonna be about ?25 for a 10-man squad of your choice un armors, plus some equipment options... ie, 1 wargear for sergeant/ medic, 1 heavy, and 1 assault.. JESUS! Last time I checked the exchange rates that wil be about $50 US. ******** that. I'll just make my own for cheaper. you can order the actual GW preheresy metals for less then that. I can caste entire tanks for less then that. An entire tank would cost less to produce than the tactical squad. There's less parts to mould, less sprues, it's mainly flat... They're ******** easy to make. A troop however, made by an unofficial company such as I, is done at the original 1/1 scale instead of 3/1, making it difficult, the details have to be exact, and the option parts allow for virtually anything to be made. Even conversions can easily be made. Have to make some profit somewhere, don't I? The costs of moulds and the sprues produced by them will be over 3 boxes even at that price. o_O Plus all parts will come pre-filed so that you just have to assemble the marines how you see fit. Army specific, any weapon, any armor.... Mould makeing is really inexpensive. Casteing from Any sprue is easy and fairly cheap. Tanks use two to three times as much resin sometimes. I caste frequently. Why buy two or three of the same tank when you can make 8 or 10 for the cost of three or four. I understand that the man hours going into sculpting the individual parts is deserving to make a profit from but for any casteing of an exsisting mini I would only expect to pay actual materials cost as the design is stolen and selling them is HIGHLY illegal.
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Posted: Mon Jun 06, 2005 9:18 am
********, how many more times? Selling a re-cast IS illegal. I will be selling modified content. So long as more than 65% of the item is different to the original, it is no longer the property of the original owner, and therefore it is LEGAL to sell them. I won't sell at "material costs" because then there'll be no point. I'll sell at material costs + postal costs + SOME profit for myself, seeing as I sculpted the b*****d things.
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Posted: Mon Jun 06, 2005 10:24 am
well, good luck with that
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Posted: Mon Jun 06, 2005 2:35 pm
I was wondering if anyone could make some suggestions for me. I'm planning on starting a Space Wolves army, and was wondering what people would suggest for my compulsory army (1 HQ, 2 Troops)
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Posted: Mon Jun 06, 2005 2:36 pm
Chakra_Thief I was wondering if anyone could make some suggestions for me. I'm planning on starting a Space Wolves army, and was wondering what people would suggest for my compulsory army (1 HQ, 2 Troops) a rune preist 3nodding and some basic guys.
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Posted: Mon Jun 06, 2005 2:56 pm
Cagalli Yura Attha Chakra_Thief I was wondering if anyone could make some suggestions for me. I'm planning on starting a Space Wolves army, and was wondering what people would suggest for my compulsory army (1 HQ, 2 Troops) a rune preist 3nodding and some basic guys. Yup. But why stop there? Go 13th company, and you get some REALLY cool crap... mrgreen
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Posted: Mon Jun 06, 2005 3:07 pm
Relkin9 Cagalli Yura Attha Chakra_Thief I was wondering if anyone could make some suggestions for me. I'm planning on starting a Space Wolves army, and was wondering what people would suggest for my compulsory army (1 HQ, 2 Troops) a rune preist 3nodding and some basic guys. Yup. But why stop there? Go 13th company, and you get some REALLY cool crap... mrgreen one word: Wulfen. gonk
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Posted: Mon Jun 06, 2005 6:09 pm
... how are you guys doing these 're-casts'? I've found a nifty way to do myself! Haven't gotten to test it on full models but it works well enough or the weapons. Essentially I use non-drying plasticene for my molds and pour in some epoxy resin. It works fairly well, but you have to place a card or something over the molds incase of trapped air bubbles. (the practice runs tended to rise like a loaf of bread resulting in a puckered and unusable model) As for the legality of the issue; correct me if I'm wrong but I believe that at least in Canada one may sell the models in a black, unmarked box, as long as it is known that the contents of the box are 'fan-material' and 'may' contain the models that the customer is looking for. The customer should send the money in advance and then the vendor should send the product. Should anybody ask the money was a donation to art (or some such nonesense) and the contents of the box were unknown. (just remember not to put a return address on the box so it can be said that it was sent by an anonymous person). This technique is also used in Japan for what are commonly called 'garage kits'. It is also suggested that the vendor only sell to an extremely small number of people and charge only the cost of making the model. (with a little extra for your trouble of course!)
Keep in mind that this info may not be (and most likely isn't) current. It is only to the best of my knowledge.
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Posted: Mon Jun 06, 2005 6:23 pm
and where exactly can i get this plasticine and epoxy resin sturff?
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Posted: Mon Jun 06, 2005 8:56 pm
The plastecene can be purchased at a dollar store or art supply store and teh epoxy can usually be found at a hardware store and maybe a hobby store or something.... meh, start with the hardware store.
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Posted: Tue Jun 07, 2005 1:06 am
Kozo The plastecene can be purchased at a dollar store or art supply store and teh epoxy can usually be found at a hardware store and maybe a hobby store or something.... meh, start with the hardware store. Yup, your local Lowes should have it. If not, go for Home Depot kid.
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Posted: Tue Jun 07, 2005 5:04 am
the moulding technique I read on a website is a 2-piece drying putty mould. quite simple, make a box with no top large enough to accommodate your sprue. place a piece of plastic around the inside of the box, and then press the putty down sort of even - you may wanna smooth it out - cover your sprue in a mould release (vegetable oil or water work well!) and then press the sprue in to the mould line. repeat this for the other side of the sprue, then wait for the putty to dry. pull on the plastic and the mould should come out easily. Then its a case of carefully drilling holes into the mould where the sprue frame is so that you can attatch the tubes to pour your resin into, or suchlike... you can also use putty without the drilling, but you won't get hollow parts, and they'll probably need filing down and attatching to the other half of the sprue - because putting two halves together can cause the putty to oush out of the pre-determined course for the parts, offsetting the model by a few milimeters
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Posted: Tue Jun 07, 2005 9:19 pm
[ Message temporarily off-line ]
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Posted: Tue Jun 07, 2005 9:21 pm
Cagalli Yura Attha the moulding technique I read on a website is a 2-piece drying putty mould. quite simple, make a box with no top large enough to accommodate your sprue. place a piece of plastic around the inside of the box, and then press the putty down sort of even - you may wanna smooth it out - cover your sprue in a mould release (vegetable oil or water work well!) and then press the sprue in to the mould line. repeat this for the other side of the sprue, then wait for the putty to dry. pull on the plastic and the mould should come out easily. Then its a case of carefully drilling holes into the mould where the sprue frame is so that you can attatch the tubes to pour your resin into, or suchlike... you can also use putty without the drilling, but you won't get hollow parts, and they'll probably need filing down and attatching to the other half of the sprue - because putting two halves together can cause the putty to oush out of the pre-determined course for the parts, offsetting the model by a few milimeters Could I get the address for that website?
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Posted: Tue Jun 07, 2005 9:48 pm
Zin Okami Cagalli Yura Attha the moulding technique I read on a website is a 2-piece drying putty mould. quite simple, make a box with no top large enough to accommodate your sprue. place a piece of plastic around the inside of the box, and then press the putty down sort of even - you may wanna smooth it out - cover your sprue in a mould release (vegetable oil or water work well!) and then press the sprue in to the mould line. repeat this for the other side of the sprue, then wait for the putty to dry. pull on the plastic and the mould should come out easily. Then its a case of carefully drilling holes into the mould where the sprue frame is so that you can attatch the tubes to pour your resin into, or suchlike... you can also use putty without the drilling, but you won't get hollow parts, and they'll probably need filing down and attatching to the other half of the sprue - because putting two halves together can cause the putty to oush out of the pre-determined course for the parts, offsetting the model by a few milimeters Could I get the address for that website? I only use this technique. But if you serf the site it refrances a few other things as well... http://www.hirstarts.com/moldmake/moldmaking.html
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