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 Posted: Sun Jan 08, 2012 5:48 pm
The information in this thread is provided to you by Morphine Kiss who granted permission to copy her thread. The original creator of the guide would also like to add that you can PM her with any questions.
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Posted: Sun Jan 08, 2012 5:50 pm
 Rats! Many of you may think they're disgusting creatures with creepy tails, but to many of us we know that it's not that way. Rats are loving, cuddly, cute animals who love to give kisses! This thread has been created in order to get together the owners and lovers of rats, who would enjoy talking about their fuzzy (or hairless) cuties! Hearty debate is allowed, unless someone begins to become belligerent/rude/slanderous. Please, don't be rude about the pets we love either. We understand that many people may not like rats for any reason, we accept your opinion, as you should accept ours. I am in no way nor do I claim myself as an expert, scientist, or veterinarian. I can give you advice about rats, as well as direct you to informative websites. I can also tell you what I do for my own rats. Please remember to take things in this thread with a grain of salt. Thread ModsSo i'm adding this section because i'm not always here to answer questions. This will be a list of people who are knowledgeable about rats and how to take care of them and can help you with questions and concerns. They're also around to report you if you get out of hand in the thread. =3 - Ratgirl34- hiysinphlay- Prince Charmant- Vinum Sabbathi-If you've been a mod in the past and are no longer on the list it's due to not being around with no word to any of the mods or myself, if you'd like to be remodded, please feel free to ask =3 More helpful threads Animal Testing Support Hamster Information and Appreciation Basic Fish Care and Appreciation~The Betta Appreciation and Info Thread~Goldfish Appreciation and Information ThreadThe Hermit Crab Appreciation ThreadLiving with our Feathered Friends: Support and AppreciationThe LoveBird Appreciation ThreadRat Appreciation and InformationSugar Glider Education and Appreciation Thread!Guinea Pig Education ThreadGerbil InformationChinchilla Help and Chat ThreadHedgehog Help ThreadLeopard Gecko Care GuideRed Eye Crocodile Skink, and no this ain't no yu-gi-oh card!ENDBSLThe Bully Breeds: Information and AppreciationWolfdog Hybrid ThreadGoat Education ThreadRabbit Appreciation and Information ThreadFerrets'R'Us - Appreciation & Support ThreadMouse Care ThreadSex, Lies and Video Tape... of Russian TortoisesAn Information and Appreciation Thread for Crested GeckosResearch and PetsFerrety FerretsFeeding RawDog TrainingCat Info and Appreciation ThreadIf you have made a thread similar to this or these Please PM Me and I will add you to my list here! Here is a great website about rats smile http://www.ratfanclub.org/
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Posted: Sun Jan 08, 2012 7:51 pm
I'm a full time manager at a Pet Shop. Are you frowning upon that? Well don't, because it's one of the most clean kept and knowledgeable ones that i've seen around. I've visited pet shops in which i'm ashamed to even have ever worked in the industry, but i'm happy to know what we do is right. My time there is mostly spent cleaning and handling animals, and occasionally the register.
I currently have 12 rats <3
Carlos, Bandit, Bree, Buttons, Bob, Lucy, Lynette, Marzipan, Ned, Rayne, Stimpson J. Rat, Skooma!
Bandit and I-
Buttons
Bob
Lucy (And Buttons in the cage)
Marzipan
Ned
Stimpson J. Rat
Skooma
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Posted: Sun Jan 08, 2012 7:53 pm
[rat] noun.–noun 1. any of several long-tailed rodents of the family Muridae, of the genus Rattus and related genera, distinguished from the mouse by being larger. But I thought Rats were wild animals?Of course, like many other pets rats have been domesticated over the years. Please! Do NOT attempt to tame a wild rat. Many can -carry- diseases and also parasites. Wild rats are not in any way the same as a tame domesticated rats. I want to buy a rat!-Before buying, please look at your local Animal shelters! Adopt first. There are many animals out there that could use a loving home. -You can visit a local pet store, but please make sure ahead of time the pets are in the appropriate conditions they should be in. Males should not be mixed with females no matter the age. Your rat should be at the very least 5 weeks old. Your pet shop should not offer to sell you a single rat either, they should question you first to see if you already have one of the same sex. Rats should be sold in same sex pairs. Yes, I know you think that you can give your ratty a million hours a day to play, but what about when you're sleeping? Rats are companion animals. They easily become depressed. -You can check out your local breeders, but make sure your breeder is treating the animals correctly as well as feeding them correctly. A rat that has been inbred too much can have many problems later in life. If your breeder knows what he/she is doing they will also have a lineage they can show you so you will know history of illnesses in the family. Are there different types of Rats?Of course! There are -many- types of rats. Here is a couple of websites that can show you the types of rats! http://www.ratsauce.com/breeds/index.phpSome Cool ThingsDid you know, rats can laugh? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j-admRGFVNM
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Posted: Sun Jan 08, 2012 7:58 pm
If you post your Rat (Pictures and name) in the thread, you may have your rat put into this post for all to see!
I will put the Rat's name, breed of the rat if you know what it is, as well as your username and the age of the rat if you know that as well. So be sure to include all of the information needed when showing your rats!
All rats are welcome here! That means furry, non furry, black, white, tan, brown, gray, tails, no tails etc;. The list goes on! We don't discriminate against our furry friends!
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Posted: Sun Jan 08, 2012 8:00 pm
Awesome! You've taken the first step into rathood, knowing that you want a rat! Here's a little checklist on things you should do and things you should buy.
1.) Research! Go to your local library and read up on the books it has. Google information, but don't take one website and only use that. Compare information, talk to breeders, maybe join a forum, and you can even ask here any questions!
2.) Have an idea in your mind where you're going to buy your friend. Do research on your local places, make sure they take care of their animals.
3.) Buy your cage first. Make sure it's an appropriate size for a rat. Most fish tanks are NOT an appropriate size and I will not recommend a fish tank to a first time rat owner. They are high maintenance and cost a lot more in upkeep.
4.) Also buy your food first as well! I recommend Mazuri Rat Blocks. These are low in the risk of cancer causing foods. They also contain the appropriate nutritional balance that your new friend is going to need. Rats can also have fresh fruits and vegetables! Mazuri is higher in protein so no protein substitution will ever be needed. They have a "fresh" flavor that rats can't get enough of. If you always give them vegetables, they will have a lovely happy diet.
5.) Before you go into the pet shop or breeder, make your first decision. Male or Female? You should never have one single rat, this is because a rat will get depressed. Many owners believe they can dedicate enough time to their rats but this is simply untrue. While you're at work, while you're asleep, while you're at school; your rat is alone. This can cause depression in rats, and some rats have been known to die from depression.
6.) Rat proof your home. Your rat is going to need exercise, so please rat proof any room that you will let your friend run around in. They'll chew cords, things that you love, eat food they find laying around, and many more problems. Your rat should always be supervised when it is out of it's cage.
7.) Now, head to the place in which you're going to receive your pal from. Pick out your new friends, and remember, rats can live up to 4 years!
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Posted: Sun Jan 08, 2012 8:02 pm
Q: Do they need Daily Exercise? How about Rat Balls, similar to Hamster Balls? Or Wheels?
Don't: Rats do need daily exercise, this is unavoidable. Personally I will not recommend a Rat ball, and I will not recommend a wheel either. The Ball causes breathing problems while in it, as they urinate frequently which will cause humidity to raise in the ball. Under close supervision, I suppose it's okay to try. My rats do not like to use a wheel, however there are rat safe wheels in the event you would like to try a wheel. Do not use metal wheels, as these are very dangerous for a rat.
Q: Do they eat everyday?
A: Absolutely! Just don't over feed your rat. Don't give them a lot of treats either as this can lead to diabetes and obesity. Some foods can even cause tumors in rats more than other foods! Know what you're feeding to your rat!
Q: Are they active? What can go in their cage?
A: Rats need toys and things to stimulate them, they are very curious and active creatures. There are toys you can give rats, and I will include a section about this. Do not give them sharp objects, things that can possibly break like glass, or leave things next to their cage that you -think- they can't pull into their cage or chew on. Odds are, they can.
Q: Baby rats are cute, so should I breed rats?
A: Please do not buy 2 rats of the opposite sex thinking you can breed them because babies are cute. You can't always find homes for your rats and you can't expect your local pet stores to buy your rats off of you. This is how we end up with homeless, and even dead rats. Keep in mind, those cute babies you just had, most of them will be snake food, which isn't so cute.
Q: My rat is misbehaving, can I tap it or hit it?
A: Do not punish your rat by hurting it in any way, even a tap isn't appropriate, they don't know what they're doing! This will only incline them to fight back. With enough work, they will begin to learn the word no. Do not reward them for misbehaving.
Q: Everyone loves rats, right?
A: No, do not Expect others to love your rat as well. Many people have phobias of them. Do not push a rat on someone who is afraid either, this may result in both parties being hurt.
Q:Do you use a Rat Wheel?
A: No, I don't.
Q: My rat is nippy, what do I do?
A: Well first of all remain calm. Now, what kind of nipping is it doing? Rats "taste" their humans with a light n** that really shouldn't be painful at all. However, a Chomp is another story. If your rat is drawing blood you need to Firmly say "No!" to your rat. Odds are he is just cranky because he doesn't want to be held though.
Q: My rat is chewing up all of my things! Help?
A: Rats naturally chew, it's what they do. Don't punish them, because if you have given them something or left something out around them, then you should expect this. Sometimes you can get lucky. My rats won't chew plastic, but they'll chew just about everything else.
Q: I heard that rats caused the bubonic plague, and carry many other diseases. Well I don't want that, but I want a rat. What do I do?
A: Rats didn't cause the bubonic plague, it was the fleas on them that did. Yes rats can cause some illnesses, this is true. It is their pee and droppings that would be likely to spread anything. This is easily avoided though. Always wash your hands before and after handling your rats. I keep germ ex in my room at all times. Keep your Rat's cage clean, and remember to wash your hands before and after cleaning the cage or even feeding the rats as well. But this is a rule of thumb with any animal.
Q: How much will a rat Cost? it's cheap, right?
A: Absolutely not cheap, no animal is cheap. For starters, where I live, rats are sold for 6.50. So, buying 2 rats will be 13.00. Food is sold at .99 a pound, so allow yourself at least 2 to 3 lbs a week. That's your cheap part. =/ Now let's add in the cost of a cage. Allow at least around upwards of 100 dollars for a decent sized cage! Don't go skimpy on the cost. You'll only find yourself paying more later. Now, bedding, for a medium bag of Carefresh, that runs 16.00 a bag here. Don't have to use that, though. Don't forget to change water daily. Now add in toys, and treats, people tend to spend upwards of 20 a month on that. I've spent more before even. Lastly, don't forget fresh foods and vegetables. That's the expensive monthly part, because it's also almost always necessary.
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Posted: Sun Jan 08, 2012 8:03 pm
Safe Foods
This is obviously not nearly all of the foods that are safe for a rat, but here is a slight list of some.
Rat Blocks
Broccoli Stems
Carrots/Baby Carrots
Fresh Spinach Leaves
Cucumber
Plain Yogurt
Banana
Pear
Seedless Watermelon
Cantaloupe
Honeydew Melon
Apples
Unshelled Sunflower Seeds
Light Milk Chocolate
Cheerios
Cooked Rice
Cooked Potatoes
Cooked Potatoes
Cooked Oatmeal (Plain)
Cooked Chicken
Cooked Ham
Cooked Turkey
Please Keep in Mind that a lot of fruits and foods that you will eat are high in fat and can cause obesity. All food should be given appropriately to your rat in moderation. Especially something like milk chocolate, while it can prevent cancer, it can be toxic in high amounts.
Toxic or Dangerous Rat Foods
Citrus Fruits
Raw Artichokes
Avocado
Cheese
Alfalfa Chews
Dried Corn
A quote from The Rat fanclub about Corn:
"Dried corn can contain high levels of fungal contaminates which has been shown to cause liver cancer in rats. Corn also contains high levels of both nitrates and amines. These two compounds can combine in the stomach to form nitrosamines which are carcinogenic. Other foods high in nitrates include beets, celery, eggplant, lettuce, cucumber, radishes, spinach, collards and turnip greens. Therefore, I suggest you limit the amount of these foods in your rat’s diet. Some fresh corn is fine, but if you feed your rats blocks, try to avoid brands which have corn as the first ingredient."
I will add foods as I see fit. Recommend anything you'd like to see added to the list.
A rat's diet is largely opinion based, owner to owner. However, the Toxic/Dangerous Rat foods should always be avoided.
I feed my Ratties Mazuri Lab Blocks, which are high in Protein. I don't have to supplement at all, for protein. I like to balance with Carrots and Broccoli, as well as some Fresh Spinach Leaves, Mustard Greens, Turnip Greens, Romaine Lettuce, Peas, and the occasional banana slices and apples.
Many people like to supplement with dog food. Personally I don't believe in doing this unless you can afford the appropriate kind. Most dog food isn't good enough for a dog, so why give it to a rat? If I ever had to supplement, i'd rather buy Turkey and cook it up whenever I needed to give it to them. But that's my personal opinion. So if you ever see me talking against Dog Food, this is why. smile
--------------
Finding Good Brands & Good Deals for Lab Blocks online
Mazuri rat/rodent food
Product information provided was taken from the mazuri site itself.
Pellet size: Oval, 3/8” x 5/8” x 1”long
Available bag size: 2lb (resealable bag) $5.71
25lb (paper sack) $20.26
Adult rats can eat 12 to 15 grams of feed per day.
Adult mice can eat 4 to 5 grams per day.
Mazuri.com (US only.)
Good deals on Mazuri can also be found through ebay. But the best prices are from Mazuri themselves.
For Canadian dealers try contacting someone from these contact lists:
Canadian Mazuri dealers
Ratgirl34 attempted to make contact through email to the one in Alberta but has yet to receive a reply. Not sure how to access their catalogues or make orders yet. Will add that when we get the information.
Scarbi I wanted to let you guys know about a good deal I've been getting on my rat food. You can get a 40-lb. bag of Native Earth 18% protein rat food for like $25 and free shipping if you order $49 or more of pet supplies. Native Earth is a very good brand of lab block. I know many of you don't have a LOT of pets like I do, but maybe even one or two people will find it helpful. The website is nationalpetpharmacy.com I personally got a 40-lb. bag of food and two bags of bedding. smile
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Posted: Sun Jan 08, 2012 8:07 pm
In the event your rat becomes sick-
First, examine your rat, and write down any symptoms or anything you see off about your rat.
From here, you can google these symptoms, but don't take this to heart. Write down the possible problems you think it could be. Next, set up a Vet Appointment with your local Rat Vet, explaining the symptoms you think it could be to the receptionist. They'll deem it emergency or not. Never take sickness lightly, they have short lifespans! When you get to the vet, explain what you think it could be. A lot of times this will help the Vet.
Please keep in mind that rats do have a short lifespan. If you're looking for an animal with a longer lifespan, this probably isn't for you. Rats are prone to getting lumps and bumps, and cancer is very common with rats. Sometimes their life can be a very sad one, and end with needing to be put down. Please be prepared before getting a rat to deal with anything that may come along. A rat may sell for 6 dollars at a pet shop, but it may run hundreds of dollars to help it live a long life.
Common Rat Illnesses
Tumors/Cysts/Abscesses - Probably one of the most common things found to be wrong with a rat. Your rat will most likely experience a lump or bump at least one time in their life. Don't worry, this isn't always going to be cancer. Never automatically assume or scare yourself into thinking its cancer, either. Take your rat to a vet as soon as you can to have them checked out.
Mycoplasma- Pretty well all rats carry this. It's that sneeze you hear across the room, or the slight porphyrn discharge from their nose and eyes. This isn't always a major worry though, and should not be unless it's an overly abundant discharge and sneezes that just won't stop. Taking your rat to the vet during these major outbreaks are vital to keep your rat living longer and healthier.
Urinary Tract Infections -Thanks to Ratgirl34 for writing this up!
A urinary tract infection (UTI) is an infection of any part of the urinary tract. Normally there are no bacteria in urine, however it can get there through a number of means. A rat could get a UTI through an inability to keep herself clean, this can occur due to a cage that is not cleaned regularly enough. Or they could get it by eating spoiled food or water.
UTIs are serious and require immediate veterinary attention before the infection can spread to other organs. Prevention is very important in regards to UTI's.
Ways to tell if your rat has a UTI:
1. When changing the bedding in your rats cage, check for any changes in it. Note if there is more or less urine than usual, or if there is any blood in the urine.
2. Keep an eye on the amount of water your rat is drinking. If you are changing her water more often than is normal, she may have a UTI.
3. A UTI can cause the urine to have an unusually unpleasant odour. It is noticeable in respect to the usual odours that a rats cage can have in that it is a very intense smell.
4. Watch for lethargy in your rat. Because their body is fighting the infection they will likely be less energetic than normal, to the point where they may be sleeping more than usual.
5. If you notice that your rat is squatting to urinate, but being unsuccessful, she may have a urinary tract infection.
6. When a rat has a UTI they may make unusual noises (such as squealing or squeaking) while urinating, due to a burning or otherwise uncomfortable sensation. Some rats are just more vocal than others, use your knowledge of your rats to determine if they are being more or less vocal than normal.
Make a note of these symptoms for your vet. Many vets do not specialize in rodents and do appreciate it when details of symptoms can be provided. But keep in mind that some of these symptoms can be indicative of other problems, try to research what each could be and keep other possibilities in mind.
My rat Skip had a UTI when I got him. Though I hadn't had him long enough to tell if he was more vocal, more lethargic, or drinking more than usual, his cage was abnormally smelly in relation to my other rat and he did have blood in his urine. Looking up his symptoms online there was a disturbingly large list of things that might have been wrong. Cancer being near the top of the list I had to work hard to calm myself down and realize that, realistically for his age, cancer was not the most likely problem. But I did bring that concern to my vet anyway, who agreed that given his age a UTI was far more likely.
Surprisingly my vet advised me that it was cheaper to treat for a UTI than to test for one. When I asked if the medication could cause problems, in the event that it wasn't a UTI, she said that it wouldn't. And after that my options were liquid medications or tablets. Having had liquid medications before, I chose tablets and loved them.
Rats do not like medicine, it has a funny smell which turns them off of it. Putting liquid medicine into their water I found that they avoided drinking, or drank less. Which meant that they were not getting a full dose. And forcing them to drink it was very unpleasant for both of us and being that it was difficult made a mess which meant that, again, they were not getting the full dose. However solid tablets can be hidden in their food, and coated in the good smelling food Skip was willing to eat it and, eventually finding that he didn't protest to the taste or that it didn't upset his tummy, he was willing to eat the tablets by themselves. Though he occasionally refused and had to have it stuck inside some cheese, I feel that all he wanted was a treat reward for taking his medicine.
On the whole, I advise medicine in the form of tablets if your rat requires medication for a UTI. My vet tells me that they are more effective, and on personal experience they are easier to get the rat to take.
Ways to prevent your rat from getting a UTI:
1. Provide your rat with fresh food and water every day. Old food and water is a bacterial breeding ground.
2. Clean your cage at least once a week. Smaller cages will require more frequent cleaning. If urine and feces builds up it will be more likely for your rat to contract a UTI just by walking around her cage.
3. Wet bedding or litter is also a breeding ground for bacteria. If you use a dish for your rats water, consider switching to a water bottle (of the drip free variety.) Or find a spill proof dish where the base is considerably larger than the top. To prevent spillage.
4. Offer your rat plain yogurt, or unsweetened cranberry juice. Some rats do not like these foods, but it is very helpful if you can get them to eat it at least once a week. Either or both can be invaluable in preventing a UTI.
Sources:
eHow.com Symptoms
eHow.com Prevention
Wikipedia Definition
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Posted: Sun Jan 08, 2012 8:11 pm
My Cages
Man Cage
Gal Cage
Obviously, you need to pay attention to bar spacing on cages. Females are a bit more slender bodied and generally smaller than males. If my girls weren't so small, I would have the exact same cage for them as I do for my males, because I much prefer that cage.
So, a proper rat setup can consist of many things. You obviously need to make sure they have enough space and ventilation, with hiding places and decks if possible. They love to climb! Cages generally are better off being taller than wide. Make sure to have sufficient water sources at all times.
It's nice for the ratties to have a different setup every so often. This is easily achieved by switching shelves around, taking away an old toy and giving a new toy, or even just moving the position of toys. Maybe switch where the food dish is, or the water bottle.
User Cages
Grey Eyed Gypsy
Safe Beddings
Carefresh - Complaints on this bedding consist of the dust. However a quick fix to this is keeping your bedding in a large storage tub with a lid. Sift through it when you put it into the tub, and almost all of the dust will settle to the bottom. This is, however, one of the more expensive beddings.
Yesterday's News- Complaints on this bedding consist of the smell. It also has to be changed more often. This is one of the cheaper beddings though.
Newspaper- Of course everyone has this around their house. This can be time consuming but beneficial. Complaints about this however consist that some say the inks are toxic to animals as well as the fact it has to be changed almost every day. Ask your local newspaper if they use vegetable based ink or not, they'll give all the information you need. You can also ask them for leftover newspaper rolls, as they don't usually use the whole roll when printing and will either give it away for free or sell it to you for a low price.
Kiln Dried Wood- When kiln dried, the toxins have been taken out of the wood. Some will argue that toxins are still in it, but nothing that will actually harm a rat. This does keep the smell down a little but should be changed every 2 to 3 days.
Toxic Beddings
Pine/Cedar/Aspen- Wood beddings as said above tend to contain toxins that are harmful to a rat's respiratory system as well as liver. While there have been studies that show it will not harm a rat, there are studies that also show it is dangerous to them and shortens lifespan. To be on the safe side, avoid this bedding.
Finding a Cage
Have you been on a search for cages? Here we'll put cost-efficient and rat friendly cages with a little feedback when possible. Feel free to ask in the thread for help finding decent deals as well!
Quote: I'd love to add some pics of my set up girls vs boys when I actually get the cages all dec-ed out xD but I do want to add a site for buying cages.
www.cageworld.com they also sell most of their cages on ebay for even cheaper, though their prices aren't bad at all on the official site either. All my cages are from this supplier, they are sturdy and easily cleaned, set up, and even taken down. All their cages are free-shipping in the US too. :3
Useful Links
Here are some good links to cage setups and information on how to set up cages
http://www.ratfanclub.org/cages.html
http://www.ehow.com/how_2266448_set-up-pet-rat-cage.html
http://exoticpets.about.com/cs/careofrats/a/ratscare.htm
Here are some good links about beddings
http://www.ratz.co.uk/ratbedding.html
http://fatratcentral.com/the-basics/litter-and-bedding/
http://ratfanclub.org/litters.html
Here is an AMAZING link! This is a Cage Calculator! It will determine if the cage you have in mind for your rats is the correct size!
http://www.rattycorner.com/odds/calc.shtml
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Posted: Sun Jan 08, 2012 8:13 pm
There are many rat safe toys, and yes! Rats do love toys! But do not forget, you can also make toys at home! Cardboard, wood, fleece blankets, are all things you can make toys out of!
Hanging Toys
Treat Kabob
Treat Kabobs are a great way to give your rat vegetables and things to chew on. The wood on them is safe, and the bell makes for a fun thing for them to knock around.
Hammocks
Hammocks are a great thing for rats to sleep and play in. They love to jump in and out of them, and cuddle and clean each other in. However keep in mind they will chew so hammocks need to be replaced every once in a while.
Sleep Tent
This is similar to the hammock, but instead it's more of a hidey home they can go in. This is especially good if you keep your house a little cooler.
Houses & Furniture
Wooden Furniture
This is for the people who prefer the more cute things for their rats. Safe to chew on, fun to watch.
Fiddle Sticks
These bend and are a great safe wood to chew on. You can bend them into stairs, a hidey house, etc;.
Huts
These are fun and safe for them to chew on and play in, watching them go back and forth in and out can be a treat.
Woodland Getaway
This is also a great fun and safe thing for them to sleep in, play in, and chew on.
Toys for the Bottom
Knot Nibbler
Knot Knobblers are fun for them to roll around and chew on
Jungle Toys
These are another cute thing for them to play with, and chew on.
ABC Blocks
I give these to all of my animals, they love to chew on them and play with them and toss them around the cage.
Safe Wheels and Balls
Comfort Wheel
These are large enough for Rats, the Giant Size. This is also cheaper than the more pricey Silent Spinner, but it is very noisy.
Silent Spinner
This is the less noisy alternative to the Comfort Wheel, I have not tried this wheel though.
Flying Saucer
I have not tried this wheel, but it is also a safe alternative to metal wheels.
Ball
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Posted: Sun Jan 08, 2012 8:15 pm
For now I will just give a link to the following website;
http://www.dapper.com.au/toys.htm
And I will be adding more to this post later. Though I will also include the following person's own dig box they have made!
ratgirl34 Basically you don't want to use soil that might make them sick if they ingest it. Fertilizers are very bad, as are other plant helping chemicals that companies love to add to their potting soil. I think most places probably do carry rat safe soil, but Walmart and Safeway both had them where I am. You also have to watch how they store it, some bags can get bugs in them and they should be treated as wild insects with all the germs and worms to follow. I bought my soil in winter so I'm pretty sure I'm safe, but I'm keeping an eye out anyway, if I've screwed up the whole thing has to be thrown out and the tank cleaned and start over... I'm using a reptile/small animal tank I had bought when I tried owning a bearded dragon (George and I had a mutual agreement; we arn't that fond of each other and I shouldn't keep reptiles for financial and personal reasons. So I found him a much better home.) For a little while I was using it as a rat tank, but when I got Skip, my second boy I needed to move things around to fit him in a cage close to Giligan and the tank was just way too big. Plus I was never overly fond of the tank anyway, even with dust resistant bedding and a screen top I was worried that it wasn't getting enough circulation for Giligan's breathing. I probably should have put some pebbles in the bottom for drainage, but if I'm careful not to over water it should be alright I think. I'm not green thumbed exactly but I haven't killed any of my plants lately. Then again, one needs very little water and the other can go from looking almost dead to the best days of it's life with one cup... We'll see how long I can keep my 'zen lawn.' Here is the website I used as my starting point for my dig box.And this one is my dig box:  I hadn't noticed until I snapped that picture... But I might need to buy my rats a lawnmower rofl I'll probably trim it down with some scisors later.
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Posted: Sun Jan 08, 2012 8:19 pm
History of The Rat as a Pet
Disclaimer:
I'm no history expert by any means, and none of this research is anything that I have founded or own, so i'll piece together information I find and provide links at the bottom of the post from any website used, and provide websites I think are interesting. If you have info to add, please let me know and provide a link from which it is from!
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Many people have negative associations with rats, and indeed, wild rats may lay waste to crops, chew through stored food, and prove difficult house guests to remove when they infest your house. However, the domestic rat is quite a different animal...you may even compare the friendly domestic rat to our current dogs, and the wild rat to their wolf ancestors! Domestic rats are social, clean, intelligent pets that often make wonderful pets for gentle children and adults.
Rats are much more people oriented then many small pets, and tend to be much more interested in interacting with and playing with their humans then some other species of small animals. Many rats love to ride shoulders, hang out in sweaters, or be carried around and cuddled by their owners.
Ancient Rome
Ancient Romans had a unique way of referring to rats. Oddly enough, they didn’t bother to differentiate much between rats and mice. Mice were known as “Mus Minimus” (little mouse), while rats were known as “Mus Maximus” (big mouse).
Victorian England
In the Victorian age in England, a macabre sport was introduced for entertainment – Rat Pits. This sport involved a terrier, who was placed in a pit with a designated number of rats. Bets were placed on each terrier, and the terrier who could kill the most rats in the shortest time won the sport.
Jack Black
To help to control the rat population, England began hiring “rat catchers”. One of the most famous of these was Jack Black, who was the royal rat catcher for Queen Victoria during the mid 19thcentury. Many of these rats were used in rat pits for sport. It is said that Jack Black is the founder of the fancy rat breed. This is because he would regularly keep rats that he found with unique color traits, or special characteristics. A short time later, he began selling these specially colored rats which he bred to be pets. According to documentation, most of Jack Black’s rats were sold “to well-bred young ladies to keep in squirrel cages”. One of his customers, the famous Beatrix Potter, dedicated a book to her pet rat, which was titled “Samuel Whiskers”.
AFRMA
In the early 1800s colored mice began to find their way into Europe and became popular, particularly in the U.K. In 1895 the National Mouse Club was founded in England. They set standards for the different varieties and held shows. It was because of this organization that the rat fancy was born.
In 1901 Miss Mary Douglas, the “mother of the rat fancy,” wrote to the N.M.C. and asked whether they would consider opening their doors to rats. The N.M.C. agreed, and the first classes for Fancy Rats were staged in the fall of 1901. By 1912 there was enough interest in rats that the club’s name was officially changed to the National Mouse and Rat Club.
It was during this time that Mendle’s theories on genetics were rediscovered by the scientific community. Fancy mice proved to be excellent models to use for further research. Rats were not used much for studying genetics; however, being small, easy to house, inexpensive to maintain, and quick to reproduce, they became favorites for other types of research.
Unfortunately, the popularity of fancy rats began to decline after the death of Miss Douglas in 1921. Less and less interest in rats was shown over the next few years and in 1929 the club was reorganized dropping the word rat from its name. The National Mouse Club is still in existence today.
Over the next 45 years interest in fancy rats was very sporadic. Several times there were people interested in starting rat clubs; however, there was never enough support to really have a go at it. 1976 was the turning point. In January of that year the National Fancy Rat Society was founded. This was the first ever “rats only” organization. It set standards, published a newsletter, and held shows. Since 1976 interest in fancy rats has grown enormously, and many new varieties have been found and standardized.
United States
The history of domestic rats in the United States is not very clear. Most likely people did catch and keep wild rats as pets, and unusually colored ones probably were found. Unfortunately there are no written records (that we are aware of) documenting this. Scientific laboratories are responsible for most of the fancy rats found in the U.S. Early pet care books dating from the 1920s suggest contacting a local laboratory or university to obtain a pet white rat. If this was not successful, they recommend asking a pet shop keeper to contact their animal supplier and see if they could provide one. Apparently many people who bred animals for pet shops also supplied them to laboratories.
Links
http://www.ramshornstudio.com/rat_history.htm
http://www.afrma.org/rminfo4a.htm
http://northstarrescue.org/pet-care/rat-care/33-meet-the-rats-rat-profile
http://pet-rat.com/pet-rats-in-history/
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Posted: Sun Jan 08, 2012 8:21 pm
Rainbow Bridge Post your photo/rat's name in this thread if you'd like it to be put up on our rainbow bridge. Noria Chan RIP Remy. She lived a long, full life. <3 Hiysinphlay RIP Morphine Kiss RIP Robin Hood
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Posted: Sun Jan 08, 2012 8:22 pm
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Reply
