Living with our Feathered Friends: Support and Appreciation

[grey eyed girly]

Living with our Feathered Friends: Support and Appreciation Thread
Now OPEN!!

Birds have become quite common pets. With their awe-inspiring colors, their beautiful calls, and their loving and playful personalities, its easy to see why they are so desired. Unfortunately many of these beloved pets soon become too much for their owners to handle. They have special dietary needs and, as exotics, they can be prone to some behavioral problems. For some, just getting out of the cage is an ordeal all its own. For those of us who can adequately care for our feathered friends, what we receive from them is well worth every effort, we gain loving and beautiful companions with personalities to match. For those of us who can't its heartbreaking for all involved. This support thread is here for bird lovers, and bird owners alike to chat about our fids and educate one another about just how to care for them. Here we can post pictures, ask questions and receive support from one another. It is our hope that this will become a valuable resource for bird owners, and perhaps, make living with your bird a little more rewarding.

[grey eyed girly]

THE DANGERS OF IMPULSE BUYING: 5 REASONS WHY YOU SHOULDN'T
::

Impulse buying is surprisingly common within the bird world. A misguided parent might give their kid a cockatiel for Christmas after believing they were 'easy, low maintenance pets', or a person might buy a large African Grey expecting it to talk for him. Plenty of misconceptions exist about owning birds- that all of them talk, that they aren't very loud, that they're easy to feed and they don't require much room. This prompts countless impulse buys, with nearly all of them to the detriment to the bird. These are five reasons why impulse buying is NOT a good idea.

1. Not everyone in the household will want a bird.
Many times, impulse buys occur without expressed consent from the other inhabitants of the household. This can cause a nightmarish situation. Owning a bird affects everyone in the house, not just the owner. Bringing a bird home without planning can cause issues down the line when you find out not everyone is willing to tolerate Polly's noise or destructive habits.

2. The bird's area will be unprepared, causing stress for the bird.
Very rarely when impulse buying will the bird's location already be determined and set up. By bringing the bird home to an environment not already made suitable, you'll be causing more more stress in an already stressful time.

3. The bird may be too much for you to handle.
Birds are very different in regards to their care when compared to more familiar pets such as dogs and cats. Birds have extremely long life expectancies- even a mere budgie should outlive a dog or cat. Birds can't be fed just one thing such as seeds or pellets- rather, they need a varied diet including fresh fruits and vegetables daily. Birds also require mental stimulation and daily, frequent interaction. By impulse buying, you may be getting a pet that you can't take care of.

4. You'll buy unnecessary and unusuble supplies, wasting money.
By impulse buying, you have done no prior research and subsequently have no clue what to get. A pet store can easily sell you supposedly 'necessary' bird supplies for you to only find out later that they're unsafe or unusuble. This can include sandpaper perch covers, an inadequate cage, corn cob bedding, mite protectors, and a myriad of other harmful products.

5. You can make serious mistakes with your purchase.
How do you know whether a bird is sick or healthy? Whether you're buying it from a reputable source or not? How do you know to choose unweaned or weaned birds? Are you even choosing a bird that's right for you? By impulse buying, you're setting yourself up to make serious mistakes to the detriment of the bird.

Impulse buying is a dangerous thing. Always do thorough research before you buy ANY sort of animal, not only birds!

-Moth Feathers

[grey eyed girly]

BEHAVIORAL PROBLEMS

Biting
Unfortunately biting is an all too common problem among parrot owners. It is so sad because it can easily be avoided. A parrot that bites has reasons, something we often forget. Just because your bird bit you doesn't mean it hates you. Reasons a bird bites are:

Anger:

An angry bite comes from a bird that has been pushed too hard. There is no mistaking an angry bite. It doesn't come "out of nowhere", there is often a substantial "warning" period. When your bird tries to communicate that it does not want something, it is our responsibility to listen. A bird that three "defense mechanisms and usually, all three will be presented before an angry bite. A bird has feathers, tail fanning and eye pinning, as well as feather "puffing" can be useful warning signs. A bird has a voice, and will use it when angry, hissing, screaming, and lunging are normally the next step. Finally when your bird has been pushed too far, your bird will use its last "defense mechanism" a painful bite. One that we have been warned about, but one that we, nonetheless, often blame our parrot for.

Communication:

Birds have beaks, unlike humans, but also unlike humans birds do not have hands, and this is something we again, forget. A n**, or "beaking" is a form of communication. If they are falling or feel unbalanced, they cannot simple grab a hold of you with their hand, they must use their beaks. Normally a bird will tell you what they want, if you can learn to understand their signals, sometimes simply placing their beak around your finger is enough to get your attention that something is amiss.

Because its been trained to:

This is one of the most common bites. A bird will, when its just a baby, bite, not knowing its own strength. Sometimes this is a playful bite, "play with me" it means to a bird with feathers, but to a human, who has nothing but skin, it means pain, and, unfortunately, the most common reaction is to scream. A playful bite should be "trained away" or distracted from. But, unfortunately for humans, a scream can simply reinforce a bad behavior. When we scream, the bird has received a somewhat funny reaction from us. If the bird liked the way we looked or the sound we made, the bird will repeat the behavior. We will repeat our behavior unaware that we have done something wrong and ta da we have trained a biting bird. When a bird bites it is important to ignore the bite and distract the bird, soon it will learn that much force is unacceptable.

Fear:

This is also an all too common form of biting. If a bird is about to fall, it will bite, if a bird is terrified it will bite simply because it has no other means of communication. When a bird is terrified, it has to defend itself, often again, there will be warning signs of a bird that is afraid, but, if the action is sudden, the bird only has time to react suddenly. Sometimes a loud noise or a strange movement is enough to make your bird bite you out of fear. A socialized bird is a less fearful bird.

Screaming
This is quiet common among larger species of birds, but even smaller birds will scream. Some scream for attention and others scream because they are genuinely afraid. Some species of bird will scream for fun (cockatoos and macaws are the most common culprit.) We, as humans, can learn to tell the difference between a playful scream, a terrified scream, and a desperate scream.

Desperate screams can be trained away. If you come running every time your bird screams (assuming it isn't a terrified scream) your bird learns that screaming is what you respond to. They don't care whether you like or dislike it, all they know is that "scream = you" When your bird screams, do not respond, do not call to them, and do not go into the room, simply ignore your bird. When your bird is quiet for a period of time, you may then call to them and enter the room. Unfortunately, we sometimes forget that we have a bird when it is so quite, you cannot do this as your bird will once again resort to screaming. Reward your bird when they are quiet, not when they scream.

Playful screams can be redirected. Birds need time to simply be birds. They deserve to scream happily and have fun. Often times your bird will pick inopportune moments to do this. They best way to avoid this problem is to schedule your screaming. Let your bird scream, let them have a routine. Whether its just before bed, or just when you wake up, or even in the middle of the day. Get into a screaming match with your birds, put on some screaming youtube videos, soon they will join in and have a blast. They will soon learn to tell the difference between when its okay to scream and when its not.

A terrified scream sounds different than any other scream. Much like a mother can tell a babies cry, you will be able to tell when your bird is in trouble. It shouldn't happen often but, you should go running. Macaws are known for their warning calls when someone unfamiliar comes to the door, but is in trouble will often let out a scream that is gut wrenching, it is our job to address whatever the situation is, immediately.

Feather Plucking
Feather plucking can be the result of many things. Hormonal frustration, boredom, not meeting dietary requirements and illness. A bird that begins to pluck should immediately be taken to the vet. A vet will help you rule out illness as well as dietary problems.

Boredom and lack of stimulation is a common problem as well. Your birds should have plenty to chew on a play with, things that stimulate them when they are alone and things to do when you are with them. No one person is interesting enough to have your bird not need toys when you are gone. Birds are very interactive creatures, they live in flocks, and, if you cannot provide a constant companion the least you can provide are toys, and interactive games. A bird that is kept busy is too busy to pluck.

Dietary needs not being met is easily avoidable. Do research before you buy your bird. Birds needs vary greatly form species to species. It is too lengthy to cover here but you can find links in our "helpful links" section.

And finally habit, a bird that plucks out of habit may have started because of a bad wing clip or an irritation, unfortunately, they may continue for unknown reasons but, once it becomes a habit, it is very difficult to break.

Cage Aggression
Cage aggression is often the result of hormonal behavior, but can sometimes be because from humans not "listening". A fearful bird will find their cage safe and anyone or anything that tries to remove them from, or intrude up in, their cage is instantly the enemy. Anything from screaming to painful bites can happen when a bird is defending their territory, usually, once the bird is away from and out of their cage, they become a "different bird". A bird that is aggressive because they are defending their territory, once removed, no longer has anything to defend. Once they are on neutral territory they may become calmer or "submissive"

The answer for aggression like this is respect. Respect for your bird and for your bird's personal space is crucial. They should be allowed to feel comfortable in their home and free from prodding and poking when in their cage. If we can respect their home and their environment, rarely moving things around and slowly introducing new things, they can feel like it is theirs and it is safe.

Lure your bird out of the cage with food, and when they willingly come to you, it is only then you can begin to "play with them" it should never be a fight to get your bird out of the cage, if it is, you are doing something wrong, it is rarely the case of a "stubborn bird". Give your bird time to warm up to you.

Hormonal cage aggression is a force to content with. It is difficult to convince your bird that there is nothing worth fighting for in their cage. As long as you can remain calm and respectful, again luring your bird away from the cage with food, when the hormones pass, you will, once again have your loving companion by your side.

Hormonal Issues
Birds go through a hormonal stage. It happens during the "teen years" and can make us bird owners question why we ever decided to have birds in the first place. hormonal bird is like a hormonal teenager. Suddenly, you no longer know anything about your bird or what makes them tick. your sweet little baby has turned into a nasty demon and you are at a loss for what to do. Amazon parrots have a notoriously bad hormonal stage.

First off, thankfully this stage only lasts a year or so and, once it is over, it is pretty much gone for good. A year of penance in return for a lifetime of loyalty and love hardly seems that bad, unless of course, you are in the middle of that year. First, you have to, once again, learn what makes your bird tick, what "turns them on", literally, and begin avoiding these like the plague. Avoid cuddling your bird in the "no no" areas, avoid blowing on your bird, and avoid certain toys that your bird may find to...you catch my drift. The less "horny" you can keep your bird, the better. If you don't your bird can become frustrated that you cannot satisfy them and there is nothing you can do about it, this stage is tough but there is a light at the end of the tunnel and things you can do during to minimize your heartache.


Anti Social Behavior
One person birdness is a difficult thing to deal with. Some species are more prone to this then others but, with all species, you should at least get your bird to tolerate your family.

Early socialization is important. Just like you would socialize your dog, you need to socialize your bird. Get them used to noises, things, and people. Introduce them not only to your family but to other people as well. Take your bird out, if it is safe. A good rule of thumb is one new thing a day. Your bird will soon learn that it can take on the world and there is nothing it should be afraid of.

With birds that are more prone to choosing one member of your family. Make sure each person in your family does something for the bird and something with the bird. One family member can clean your bird's cage, one can feed them, with a bird there are endless tasks to be done. Have everyone in the family handle the bird and play with the bird. The bird suddenly has a flock and not just a mate. This will also help minimize hormonal problems later in life

[grey eyed girly]

DIET

The ideal diet for a bird is a complex subject, but nevertheless adequate nutrition plays an important part in a bird's health. Because birds have been in captivity for so short of a time in comparison to our domesticated dogs and cats, their dietary needs are not well known. It is often said that most diseases of pet birds are results of malnutrition. Poor diets can compromise the immune system, subsequently making birds prone to illness. A malnourished bird can have tatty feathering and poor beak condition, as well as a much shorter lifespan. By providing a sufficient diet, you're vastly improving your bird's quality of life and health.

So what is the ideal diet? This varies tremendously between species, even from bird-to-bird. A bird's dietary needs also change throughout its life. Molting, breeding, or juvenile birds need more protein than others. A highly active bird, such as one living in an aviary, will need a diet containing much more carbohydrates and fat, while for other birds this may be too much. It is important to understand the needs of your bird to determine the correct diet for them.

Because diet varies tremendously, it is vital for an owner to do their research. There is no single diet that will work for all birds, and no single food that will cover all a bird's psychological and physical requirements. Tailor your avian's diet according to their needs. Research to find out what they would eat in the wild and talk with reputable, trusted breeders to see what they feed to their flock for maximum health. There are a variety of resources specifically about avian nutrition in libraries and online- utilize them. Some links are listed below.

-Moth Feathers

[grey eyed girly]

WHY'S AND HOW'S OF QUARANTINE

So you've bought a new bird. What do you do next- toss it in a cage with your other bird?
NO. You've forgotten the importance of quarantine!

Quarantine is the isolation of new birds from your resident birds. This is a simple but effective way of preventing disease from new birds spreading into your flock. Even though a bird may look healthy before purchase, after enduring the stress of entering a new household, illnesses often come up. Quarantine is VITAL to maintaining a healthy flock and is a must for any serious bird owners. Numerous benefits exist from isolating your new birds, such as:

-opportunity to evaluate the new bird for any disease or illness
-ability to treat the bird individually with medication if necessary
-prevent disease from infecting the rest of the flock!
-be able to monitor the new bird's progress in settling into their new home
-providing a quiet, stress-free environment for the new bird to acclimate to your conditions before being introduced to resident birds

But how does one quarantine?
First:
house the new bird in a separate cage
keep new bird out of contact from resident birds, in a separate room
visit the new bird last when doing daily maintenance
do not use materials in the cage of the new bird, such as toys, perches, etc., with resident birds until quarantine is over.


The new bird can be kept in quarantine anywhere from two weeks or several months. How long you choose to quarantine is up to you, but consider several factors in determining the length of time:
Where did the bird come from? Birds that come from less reputable places, such as from pet stores or bird fairs, should be quarantined longer than birds coming from experienced, trusted breeders.

Is the bird ill? Birds that show signs of illness at any time during quarantine should be withheld longer to ensure they can't spread disease to the rest of your flock.

What is the risk of your resident birds catching disease? Birds that are under stress, such as during molting or breeding, or birds that are more delicate, such as juveniles or seniors, are more prone to disease and care should be made to ensure that the new bird is completely free of disease before introduction.

By being smart and quarantining new birds, you can save yourself and your flock from a lot of trouble.

-Moth Feathers

[grey eyed girly]

HOUSING GUIDELINES FOR FINCHES AND CANARIES

Sufficient housing is vital to the health and happiness of these small birds. Though they may look small, they are highly active animals and need as much room as they can get. Too small a space and you will have flighty, stressed, and miserable birds.

The most domesticated finches need at least 2-3 square feet of space per pair. Highly domesticated finches include Zebra and Society finches, as well as canaries. Less domesticated birds, such as the Lady Gouldian and other grass finches, waxbills, and munias need more space to be happy.
To calculate square footage, find the length and width of the cage in inches, multiply them, then divide by 144. That's your square footage!

Remember that a properly sized cage will be able to house at least two birds, have room for at least three perches, be able to contain at least one to two plants, as well have adequate room for these birds to fly- not hop around. Bar spacing for these birds should not be over 1/2 inch.

Keep your birds happy and healthy by giving them room! The worst thing you can do is keep these cheerful little birds in a cage too small.

-Moth Feathers

[grey eyed girly]

REASONS TO TRAIN

Aside from the joy of having a parrot that knows tricks, learning and training are important to stimulate growth for your birds. Many behavioral problems can virtually be eliminated through training. Birds who pluck, birds who scream, and birds who are simply bored can highly benefit from being able to learn, challange themselves, and accomplish tasks. Many "fearful birds" can gain an enormous amount of confidence through this. Remember when you first learned how to ride a bike? Imagine being able to give your feathered child the chance to impress you by giving them a task that they can accomplish.

1. Bonding
When you train your parrot, you and your parrot create a bond that cannot be broken. Instead of being simply a perch or a source of food, you begin to discover one another. Your bird finds out what makes you laugh, what makes you happy, and how they can use it to their advantage. You begin to discover your bird's personality and what makes them tick. There is nothing more rewarding than seeing a bird that actually loves you, rather than tolerates you.

2. Routine
Many birds benefit from having a routine. Sometimes our lives can be very hectic, we may not feed them at the same time, take them out at the same time, or play with them at the same time, and, for some birds, they can feel lost. If your bird knows that every day you will train with your birds (and play) your bird can become more confident. By establishing not only a routine of training, but routine within the training (touch the stick and you get a treat) you give your bird a place in your home and a way of understanding the world.

3. Confidence
If you had all your food handed to you all your life and sat in a cage every day, if someone finally took you out of that cage and asked you to find your food, you'd be lost, and worst, you wouldn't even know how to trust yourself. Unfortunately a "fearful" bird is very common, a bird that has no sense of self, or how to relate in the world. When you teach a bird tricks, you teach them a method of controlling the world and controlling outcomes. If you teach your bird how to wave, they not only learn that when wave they get a treat, they learn that all they have to do, if they want a treat, is wave, and if they do not, then they don't have to. By training you give your bird a choice in how they are raised and that is invaluable.

4. Behavioral Problems Virtually Disappear.
Birds can scream when they don't receive attention, they may pluck because they can't cope, and they may bite because they have no other form of communication. A happy and confident bird, one with a semblance or routine and one that feels comfortable with their owner does not have these problems. (though there are many reason a bird plucks, some of them can be dietary or out of habit, thus training may not also stop plucking). Through training, you give your bird a way to communicate with you. They can show you what they want. Better yet, you become proud of your bird and the relationship all around is better. Training is by no means a substitute for play, but birds that train hard, play hard, and sleep hard and happier.

[grey eyed girly]

HELPFUL LINKS

Species Commonly Kept:
African Greys
Amazons
Budgies
Caiques
Canaries
Cockatiel
Cockatoos
Cockatoos-warning, graphic, loud
Conures
Eclectus
Finches
Lories and Lorikeets
Lovebirds
Macaws
Parrotlets
Rosellas
Senegals

Diet:
Nutrition Guide
Toxic Foods


Beginner's Guide:
So you think you want a parrot?
Five Beginner Birds

Training Resources:
Bird Tricks
Good Bird Inc

Plucking:
Feather Plucking

Other Appreciation and Support Threads:
Fish
Basic Fish Care and Appreciation
~The Betta Appreciation and Info Thread~
Goldfish Appreciation and Information Thread

Arthropods

The Hermit Crab Appreciation Thread

Birds

Living with our Feathered Friends: Support and Appreciation
The LoveBird Appreciation Thread

Small Mammals

Rat Appreciation and Information
Sugar Glider Education and Appreciation Thread!
Guinea Pig Education Thread
Gerbil Information
Hamster Thread
Chinchilla Help and Chat Thread
Hedgehog Help Thread
url=http://www.gaiaonline.com/forum/pets/rabbit-appreciation-information-thread-open/t.68821945_1/]Rabbits Appreciation & Information

Reptiles and Amphibians

Leopard Gecko Care Guide
Red Eye Crocodile Skink, and no this ain't no yu-gi-oh card!


Canines

ENDBSL
The Bully Breeds: Information and Appreciation
Wolfdog Hybrid Thread

Hoofed Animals

Goat Education Thread

[grey eyed girly]

MEMBER CONTRIBUTION

luvbyrd

HOUSING GUIDLINES: GENERAL

A bird's cage is not a place of doom or a cruel thing, it is a personal living space and should be set up well for a long happy life.

The Cage

When picking out a cage, have the size of bird in mind. The first thing to look at is the bar size and spacing. The bird should not be able to poke its head through the bars, nor should it be able to bend them with its beak. A little too close together is better than too far apart. Once you have found the right bars size/spacing, go for the largest cage you can get. Horizontal space is better than vertical space, as it gives more room for stretching their wings and flying. Also, it leaves more room for perches because perches right over one another get pooped on. Next, look at the doors, including those for food bowls. Beware of any of the vertical lift style doors; birds figure out how to lift them, and if they don't manage to escape, the door can fall on them and hurt or kill them. You may be able to get around this by using a binder or coffee-bag style clip on a cage for small birds. For any other door, check and see if the bird can reach the locking mechanism. If it can, you will want to invest in a chain and lock. Finally, look at how easy it is to clean - it should have a slide - out bottom and grate, and if it is a large cage, you may want wheels on it. Also, parrots like to climb, so at least 2 sides of the cage should have horizontal bars. If you can get one, stainless steel is a good option, especially for a large bird, since powder coated ones can chip and rust over time. A good cage is an investment in your bird's well-being, and so you'll want it to last a long time. Birds live a long time, so getting a better one, even if it's more expensive, is worth it and better than having to replace it.

Placement

The cage should be placed in a a well used room that is frequented by people, such as a living room, as birds are social and will want to be with their 'flock'. However, the kitchen and bathroom are not suitable because of changes in temperatures and often unsanitary conditions. Hallways, too, are not a good option because of too much traffic. Do not put a cage next to a window or any spot that may have a draft, as the temperature extremes can stress the bird an make them ill. Sometimes, having a second, smaller cage can be beneficial. It can be used to hold the bird when cleaning the larger cage, travelling or sleeping. Because parrots are tropical and sub-tropical animals, they need 10-12 hours of sleep. If the location of the main cage doesn't get enough dark and quiet time, that small cage can be placed in a spot that does, such as a bedroom.

Perches

In setting up a cage, good perches are a must because birds spend a lot of time on thier feet. Poor perching can lead to foot problems. When choosing perches, make sure the bird can't wrap its foot all the way around, otherwise it is too small. There should be at least 3 perches of varying diameters and materials in the bird's cage. Wooden dowel perches are common and usually come with the cage. These are fine perches, but should not be all that the birds has. Natural wood branches are great because of their varying size, which excersizes the feet. These can be bought at petstores or made yourself, but if you do so be sure they come from non-toxic plants are pesticide/herbicide free and not sprayed with fertilizers. Rope perches are quite popular because they can be bent to fit any cage and are soft and comfortable. Concrete perches are good for keeping the nails shorter, and because of their rough surface, birds often like to feak (wipe their beak) and sleep on them. Sandpaper perch covers are not a good alternative, however, as they absorb moisture, which can harbor bacteria, and are too abraisive. For the older or arthritic bird, heated thermal perches are well liked. Swings and ladders are fun perches. When placing perches, be sure you do not put them directly above one another as they will get pooped on, which is unsanitary and can be hard to clean. Some perches will need to be replaced with time, especially if they are a favorite item to chew.

Other accesories

Dishes are a must. You will need 2-3, for fresh foods, dry foods, and water, but you may want a second set. Stainless steel and acrylic are both popular because they are durable and easy to clean. Ceramic is also good, but care must be taken to prevent chips and breaking. Plastic is common, especially for small birds, but be careful of ones with tight corners, as they can be hard to get completely clean and can harbor bacteria. Silo-style feeders aren't great options because the bird doesn't have access to most of it's food or water, and not properly cleaned, can carry germs. Bowls should be cleaned daily, water bowls maybe more than once a day if your bird likes to put things in it.
Cage skirts are used around the base of the cage to catch seeds hulls and other tossed debris, and may be desired if the bird is particularly messy (all birds will be messy to some degree).
If your bird's cage is in a place that doesn't get 10-12 hours of regular darkness for sleeping, you will want to get a cage cover. A cage cover - darkness - tells the bird it is now time to sleep, and helps them get a good night's rest. A blanket or towel can be used. Sometimes birds will chew on them, so keep an eye out for any loose strings, threads, or holes that the bird could get caught on or tangled in.

OPEN!

[Trash Mammal]

This is totally rad! I'm going to add this link to my thread!

And i'm sure i'll return with curious questions about birds smile

[grey eyed girly]

Morphine Kiss

This is totally rad! I'm going to add this link to my thread!

And i'm sure i'll return with curious questions about birds smile

Haha thanks, its a collab between Moth Feathers and I. And I added your thread, if thats alright, it's in the links section.

[Hayley Beth]

I have two cockatiels, they are pretty cute, Jazzie and Mayzie. I rescued Mayzie but she plucks. She was a plucker before I got her, everyone says its just habit now, but it still makes me sad and I feel like I should be able to do something about it

[grey eyed girly]

Hayley Beth

I have two cockatiels, they are pretty cute, Jazzie and Mayzie. I rescued Mayzie but she plucks. She was a plucker before I got her, everyone says its just habit now, but it still makes me sad and I feel like I should be able to do something about it

Unfortunately, habits like that suck. You shouldn't beat yourself up over it. You can try certain vitamin supplements, and those might help. I've never been a fan of cones, especially if your bird isn't mutilating, but just the attention and a new environment should help. How long have you had her, and is she fully flighted, because sometimes a bad clip can cause plucking. If you are able to, keeping her flighted may help. Also I'd love to see some pictures of the both of them.

[Hayley Beth]

grey eyed gypsy

Hayley Beth

I have two cockatiels, they are pretty cute, Jazzie and Mayzie. I rescued Mayzie but she plucks. She was a plucker before I got her, everyone says its just habit now, but it still makes me sad and I feel like I should be able to do something about it

Unfortunately, habits like that suck. You shouldn't beat yourself up over it. You can try certain vitamin supplements, and those might help. I've never been a fan of cones, especially if your bird isn't mutilating, but just the attention and a new environment should help. How long have you had her, and is she fully flighted, because sometimes a bad clip can cause plucking. If you are able to, keeping her flighted may help. Also I'd love to see some pictures of the both of them.

She take off feathers on her chest. Her flight feathers are coming in. It should be alright if she's flighted, she likes to cuddle a lot. My friend has a bigger cockatoo and says that my bird Mayzie is just as cuddly. I have some pictures somewhere, I'll find them.

We've had her a couple of weeks now, so I know her feathers still have lots of time to come in, but I want to make sure that I'm doing everything right. I hate those cones too, no, she isn't hurting herself, at least it doesn't look like it.