A little troll
open gaia with chrome, go to profile, left click on what u want to change, inspect element, any changes there are not permant, but u can copy the code on the right side and then paste
sorry if some1 else said the same, im slacker to read all comments
ninja Or you can use Firefox's native inspectir, press Shift+F7 for the style editor and edit the embedded (inline) style sheet. No changes are permanent. But then you can copy and paste it after you've worked on it for a while, into Gaia's textarea for CSS.